Shakira in Mérida: Free Concert for 150,000 People

"Good evening, Mérida! Tonight is yours!" was the greeting, as award-winning, Colombian singer Shakira appeared on the stage. The answering cheer, from the amassed crowd of 150,000 people, could surely have been heard back in Cancún.

None of them had paid a single peso to be here. The performance was a gift from the city authorities. The mayor's office had organized it; a consortium of business people had paid for it. Now Shakira was here and the people of Mérida were having the time of their lives.



Shakira entertained the city for two hours, playing all of her greatest hits, including 'Pies Descalzos', 'Hips Don’t Lie', 'Te Dejo Madrid', 'La Tortura', 'Loba' and 'Antes de las Seis'. A surprise addition to the set-list was a cover of the US band, Metallica's 'Nothing Else Matters', which was received very well by the exuberant masses.

Her encore, of course, was 'Waka, Waka (This Time for Africa)', which was the official song of the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Watching from the wings was her own favourite international footballer. Boyfriend Gerard Piqué, centre back for Barcelona FC, and one of the key players for the Spanish team that won the World Cup last year, accompanied Shakira to Mérida.



Tickets were handed out at special 'one-stop shops' around the city, in the days leading up to the event. The majority of people stood, but there was preferential seating for the disabled and for youngsters who had demonstrated outstanding academic or sporting prowess. Teachers and coaches were previously invited to nominate students for the treat, with organizers choosing who to honor based on their records and stories.

Land around a former railway station, La Plancha, was cleared and developed, in order to hold this free concert on Saturday night. It had previously been derelict and overgrown, but now promises to be a venue for future events in Mérida.



However, not everyone was happy. Some protesters boycotted the concert, whilst campaigning against the use of public money for it. They argued that, though Shakira's fee had been paid by local business people, preparing the land came from the treasury. This was money, they maintained, whilst would have been better spent on education or health. They were also concerned by the lack of transparency surrounding costs, through which it became impossible to know precisely how much tax-payers had contributed.

Angelica Araujo Lara, the municipal president of the city, had held a series of public meetings, outlining how the concert would bring tourism to the area. The city's hotels, shops, restaurants and bars would all benefit as attendees were drawn from outside Mérida; while the global coverage of the event would be a great showcase for the city. In short, any money put in by the public purse would be recouped by this boost to the local economy.



With an eye to the incoming tourists, attracted by the presense of Shakira, this concert didn't happen in isolation. In the week leading up to it, several public events were staged, including a huge exhibition of Mérida handicrafts; a folk ballet; a musical review, featuring children and teenagers from the city; and a concert by local bands and the city's orchestra. All of these were free to attend and took place in Mérida's main parks and plazas.

A selection of fan-made videos, filmed at the Mérida concert, can be found at Yazmín MK's 'My Shaki Blog'.

A Taste of Mexico: Cornish Pasties?

The succulent Cornish pasty was once the preserve of Celtic miners. The D shaped, crimped edge pastry is filled with potato, beef, swede/turnip and onion, seasoned with salt and pepper. It can be easily carried and keeps the heat sealed within for a sustaining lunchtime meal, deep within the pit shaft. These days, anyone can and does eat it. It's too delicious to pass up! And it accounts for 6% of the Cornish food economy.



But hold on! This is supposed to be a blog about Mexico and, tasty as the Cornish pasty is, it has Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for a Celtic nation in the British Isles! That's a bit far away to be of interest to us. Or so you'd think. But try telling the people of Mineral del Monte, Hidalgo, that.

Mineral del Monte is town with a population of around 12,000 people, nestled high in the mountains of central-eastern Mexico. It's a beautiful place, full of red-roof houses, built at an altitude of 8,800ft (2,700 meters), in the Sierra de Pachuca. This is a smaller mountain range with the larger Sierra Madre Oriental.



To the locals (and the tourist board), the town is more often called Real del Monte, or simply El Real. It was designated a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town), in 2004, because of its cultural significance. The town has a definite Olde Worlde feel to it, with narrow streets winding along, lined with historic houses. Many early 19th century buildings are kept in excellent repair. They are often now museums, showing how the town used to be in the early days.

This has always been a mining town. Amongst the attractions are guided tourist trips into mines; a former miners' hospital and cottages dating from the 1820s, restored to how they would have looked then; a mining museum; and Museo de Medicina Laboral (Museum of Workplace Medicine), showing how injuries were dealt with down the pits. There is also the Monument to Miners, an impressive statue in the main plaza.


A second glance might also reveal the British influence, amongst the native Mexican and Spanish. The parish church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary) has two steeples, one in the Spanish style and one in the British. There is a British graveyard around the back, where the stones all traditionally face distant Britain. All of this might give a huge clue as to why we were waffling on about Cornish pasties at the start of this blog entry.

Between 1824-1848, a group of 350 economic migrants from Cornwall arrived in Real del Monte, lured by the silver mines, while escaping crippling conditions back home. The mining industry had been in decline in this part of Mexico, so this wasn't the easy option. Through sheer hard work and determination, the Cornish revived these mines and made them profitable again. Their endeavours, in turn, attracted Mexican miners to the area and the town became firmly established.

Their labour wasn't all that the Cornish brought with them. Mexican workers soon spotted the lunch that their British colleagues were eating. It didn't take them long to send their wives knocking on the doors of their Cornish neighbours, in order to get the recipe for the pasties. The meal is called 'paste' in Mexico, pronounced 'PAH-stays'. Today there are still over 30 paste vendors in Real del Monte, rendering it the town's most popular food.


The tradition Cornish pasty has ended up with some changes, in its evolution into a Real del Monte paste. Beans, sausages, pineapple, mole, apples, chillis, rice and tinga (shredded chicken) have all found themselves inside the crust. But then Mexicans have always liked to be experimental, even with already great ideas!

The descendents of the Cornish miners and their families are still there, though all now consider themselves Mexican. There's barely a word of the Cornish language to be heard, as they've all favor Spanish. But the links remain.

In 2001, the Sociedad Cultural Cornish-Mexicana (Cornish-Mexican Cultural Society) was formed to strengthen links between the two people.

Recently paste maker, Ciro Peralta Gonzalez, flew to Cornwall in order to learn the traditional recipe at the source.

Every October, the Cornish Pasty Festival takes over the town.

This year's event has benefitted from the formation of the cultural society. A party of people from Cornwall (some with ancestors among the original emigrants) will be traveling to Mexico to join in the festivities. They will be joined by Judith MacGregor, Britain's Ambassador to Mexico, and Diana Kennedy, a British celebrity cook known for creating Mexican dishes. Exciting times for little Real del Monte!

It is believed that these Cornish miners had an even bigger impact upon Mexico, than simply leaving pasties and a mining heritage in one of its towns. It appears that they also missed their sport. In 1900, in neighbouring Pachuca, some young men clubbed together to create a football team.



Charles Dawe, John Dawe, James Bennetts, John Bennetts, William Blamey, Richard Sobey, William Bragg, William Thomas, Percy Bunt, Lionel Bunt, Albert Pangelly and William Pengelly were the Cornish footballing miners, who now found themselves in need of another team to play. They encouraged the formation of football teams as far away as Mexico City.

They are credited with introducing the now national sport of futbol into Mexico. Gracias Cornwall!

June 19th: Father's Day

Yesterday was Father's Day in Mexico. Día del Padre (Day of Fathers) always falls on the third Sunday in June, so its date, unlike Mother's Day, can change. Other than that, the day holds many similarities to Día de las Madres, only the parental focus has changed.


Día del Padre is a day for honoring fathers and father figures. Children and adults alike will have presented their dad with a card and gift. As with Mother's Day, the little ones will often have made something at school, while older children and adults will have bought their tokens of appreciation from a shop.

This is a day for family. Being Sunday, in a staunchly Catholic country, the whole extended family might well have met up for Mass at their local church. Afterwards, everyone congregates at the parental home, where a shared meal usually evolves into a small party. It is all for the patriarch of the home, who could expect a steady stream of children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren, lining up to tell him how great he is.


In some areas, the celebrations spill out of the homes and into larger events. In Mexico City, the 31st annual Carrera del Día del Padre (Father's Day Race) was held in Bosque de Tlalpan (Tlalpan Forest). Organized by professional athletic associations, the 12,000 participants will have paid up to $400 entrance fee. But there are substantial cash prizes attached to a sliding scale of awards. The overall winner will net $50,000.

Categories include everything from athletic standard to veteran fun runs; though a popular one is the Father and Son Race. Birth certificates proving their relationship is required to sign up to that one. They hurtle out over 13 miles (21km), after the 7.30am starting whistle sounds, into a mostly forested route. However, some of the roads in the city will be closed as part of the race. Afterwards, there is a carnival atmosphere, as times are displayed for all (gathered from chips clipped to each runner) and the award ceremony takes place.


For most fathers in Mexico, the day is less competitive and more family oriented. If it isn't the Mass, meal, party combo around the home, then it will be a day trip with everyone in tow. The whole family might descend upon a local attraction or beauty hotspot; or attend a sports venue as spectators only!

A (slightly belated) feliz Día del Padre to all the Mexican fathers (and other nationalities visiting) out there!

Bacalar and the Lagoon of the Seven Colors

It is one of the gems of the Caribbean coastline; a haven of artists, nestled within an area of outstanding natural beauty, where the adventurers zoom, at 125mph, across the ocean's clear, blue horizon. This is Bacalar, named a Pueblo Magico (Magic Town) by the Mexican government; the first with such a designation in the whole of Quintana Roo. It is known as the Lagoon of the Seven Colors.


The town sits just twenty minutes drive south of Chetumal; and the residents of the state's capital have found it well enough. Bacalar is where they come to kick back and relax. A tranquil outpost, where the pace of life winds down to a snail's crawl; where fun is informal and the food is rich, authentic Mexican fare. This is the Mexico that the tourists think that they are getting, up in sanitized, Americanized Cancun. This is real.

Yet external influences have made their mark here too. Bacalar lies right on the River Hondo, the deep river, which provides a natural, national border with Belize to the south. The best of Belize makes it into the town, in dishes, dances and music.

This is especially true during the first fifteen days of August, when the annual Fair of San Joaquin de Bacalar is in full swing. In those heady days of concerts, races, staged fighting, demonstrations, ballets, mercados and fiesta fuelled celebrations, there is as much Belizean as Mexican. Their neighbour is an ally and the fun is shared.


But parties can be had all over Mexico. What most people are here for is the scenery. Hemmed around with lush, jungle foliage, Bacalar boasts a wide and shallow lagoon, that changes color as it moves towards the shore.

Out in the bay, the mirror calm ocean reflects back the rays of the sun, in a twinkling array of glistening gold. This is the Caribbean, so the waters are crystal clear, allowing the underwater world to throw up its colors, in softening hues of green and blue. The white sands are seen long before it sheds the blanketing sea and envelopes the beaches.

It is not unusual to find a tourist here, losing hours in misty-eyed contemplation, at the quiet wonder of it all; nor to overhear the delighted shrieks of the newly arrived, "I feel like I've died and gone to Heaven!!" The artists know. They've been painting it for years.


The lagoon, of course, isn't merely pretty. The waters, stretching out as far as the eye can see, are never deeper than 20ft (6 meters). That makes it perfect for adventure sports, like kayaking. There are places throughout the town, where sail-boats can be hired or trips arranged on a speed-boat. Scuba diving, snorkelling, swimming and every water activity under the sun can be indulged in Bacalar.

This includes cenote diving, swimming and exploring. Cenote Azul, a vast sinkhole, lies right at the entrance to the town. It is the gateway to a sprawling network of underground rivers, caverns and passageways, some of which are yet to be fully discovered. That is the preserve of the experts, but many are mapped for tourist treks. Meanwhile, the cenote itself is one of the most popular attractions in the area, drawing people from miles around to enjoy its refreshing waters and cool, beautiful rockface.

Competitive races are held here too. The biggest is the Rio Hondo-Bacalar Nautical Marathon, which draws crowds in early August. They naturally stick around for the town's large fair.


There is history to explore in the town too. The Fort of San Felipe Bacalar was originally built, in 1725, to protect the town from pirates and illegal loggers. But its importance grew towards the end of that century, when hostilities erupted between the British, in Belize, and the Spanish, in Mexico. With soldiers lined up on either side of the Rio Hondo, the nearby fort became a base of operations and supplies.

Again, in the 19th century, the fort held a pivotal role in the Caste War, when the local Maya rose up against those of European descent. The fort changed hands several times in that conflict; and the history is still there for visitors to see.

Today, it is difficult to imagine battles ever touching Bacalar. The less energetic lie draped on hammocks or sun-loungers; or amble around Bacalar's streets and shops. There are beach-side bars and quiet cafes, or higher class restaurants for those meaningful moments. The beautiful town goes on, in peace and relaxation, and the ever changing colors of its tranquil lagoon.

Cielito Lindo

'Cielito Lindo' is a song that's reached iconic status in Mexico. Any international football fan will have heard it. It's the song that Mexicans erupt in unison singing, to cheer on their national team in the World Cup.



Here they are against Portugal; and against Iran; and against France (at 1.26); and against Germany; and against Costa Rica; and against Chile. We could go on and on. Mexican football crowds sing it, in support of the national team, against any challengers.

It's also become a favorite to welcome international musical artists on the stages of Mexico. Yesterday, we told how it was sung to Lady Gaga. She was by no means the first. Here it is featuring in a U2 concert, in 2009.



It has been sung to everyone from Faith No More to Divididos. But the list of those it has been recorded by is even more impressive.

Just about every major Mexican singer has done a version at some time (even if it's just an informal rendering at a concert). But it's spread much wider than that. Pedro Infante, Bing Crosby, Placido Domingo, Jose Carrera, Luciano Pavarotti, Alma Cogan, Ella Fitzgerald, Luis Miguel, Enrique Iglesias, Alejandro Fernández and thousands others have thrilled Mexican fans with 'Cielito Lindo'.

It is a tune very close to the Mexican heart. Recently, Manchester United fans were looking for a chant to sing to their star Mexican footballer, Javier Hernández. One British Mancunian came up with a variation of 'Cielito Lindo', which namechecked both Hernández and his club. "Watch out," a Mexican fan commented, "you might make him cry." (Javier Hernandez Chant?)



So what is this song? 'Cielito Lindo' was penned in 1882 by Quirino Mendoza y Cortés. It was popularized, as most famous traditional Mexican songs were, by Pedro Infante singing it in a film.

This was 'Los Tres García' (1947), in which three charros (cowboys) fall in love with an American girl named Lupita. Their grandmother is not impressed and tries to thwart them at every turn. But romance wins the day for Infante's character, Luis Antonio García, and the lovely Lupita. It was a massive box office hit and, when Infante sang his love-song to Lupita, the hearts of thousands of cinema-goers melted. 'Cielito Lindo' was now sealed in the Mexican consciousness forever.



Of course, it's only the older generation who recall Lupita now. For everyone else, it is a love song to be sung at footballers and Lady Gaga. Beyond that, it's the preserve of bar sing-a-longs and Mariachi bands.

Ever wished that you could sing along? Or, at least, know what the Mexcians are singing? Here is your big moment. Give it a go. Mexico will love you.

Cielito Lindo

De la Sierra Morena, Cielito lindo, vienen bajando, Un par de ojitos negros, Cielito lindo, de contrabando. Estribillo: Ay, ay, ay, ay, Canta y no llores, Porque cantando se alegran, Cielito lindo, los corazones. Pájaro que abandona, Cielito lindo, su primer nido, Si lo encuentra ocupado, Cielito lindo, bien merecido. (Estribillo) Ese lunar que tienes, Cielito lindo, junto a la boca, No se lo des a nadie, Cielito lindo, que a mí me toca. (Estribillo) Si tu boquita morena, Fuera de azúcar, fuera de azúcar, Yo me lo pasaría, Cielito lindo, chupa que chupa. (Estribillo) De tu casa a la mía, Cielito lindo, no hay más que un paso, Antes que venga tu madre, Cielito lindo, dame un abrazo. (Estribillo) Una flecha en el aire, Cielito lindo, lanzó Cupido, y como fue jugando, Cielito lindo, yo fui el herido. (Estribillo)

Through dark tresses, heavenly one, a pair of deep brown eyes, lower as they approach, a stolen glance. Refrain: Ay, ay, ay, ay, sing and don't cry, heavenly one, for singing gladdens hearts. A bird that abandons his first nest, heavenly one, then finds it occupied by another, deserves to lose it. (Refrain) That beauty mark you have next to your mouth, heavenly one, don't share with anyone but me who appreciates it. (Refrain) If your little mouth, my dark girl, were made of sugar, I would spend my time enjoying its sweetness. (Refrain) From your house to mine there is no more than a step. Before your mother comes, heavenly one, give me a hug. (Refrain) Cupid shot off an arrow, heavenly one, And though he was playing, I was wounded. (Refrain)

La Quebrada: The Dare-devil Divers

The cliff is 35 meters (125 ft) high. Jagged fingers of rock poke out from the crashing tide. From the top, it seems a long and treacherous way down, yet the diver lights a torch and waits. There is one moment, one perfect moment. In a mixture of knowledge, skill and instinct, the diver sees and seizes the moment. He jumps. Crowds of watching tourists hold their collective breath, watching his fire flare fall and the pin-prick sense of his body with it. He is lost to the waves.


Then he rises again, triumphant and swimming back to shore with a huge grin. The next one takes his turn. These are the La Quebrada Cliff Divers, one of Acapulco's most famous sights; and they really do know what they're doing.

Let us make something quite clear from the onset. This is not an activity that is encouraged for tourists. It is a spectacle, performed by those with training in the feat. Many divers come from a single, extended family, who have been doing this for generations. The rest are members of the La Quebrada Cliff Divers Club, which was formed in 1934, especially to ensure that the safety tips were passed on. No-one wants to see a vacationer crumpled at the bottom.

La Quebrada translates as 'gulch' or 'ravine'. It refers to the location itself, part of Acapulco's stunning, Pacific coastline. There is plenty of fishing to be had out there. When the divers are in downtime, then spectators can watch the pelicans soaring down to capture their food. It is believed that fishing is the genesis of the human cliff diving too. Nets snagged on sharp rocky outcrops had to be freed somehow.


The ravine is overlooked by a cliff path, where the Hotel El Mirador has two platforms with first class views of the procedings. It is from this hotel that the sports footage, commonly broadcast throughout the Americas, is filmed. Patrons can pay US$3.50 (30 pesos) to stand on a broad balcony; or considerably more to dine in the La Perla restaurant, with its terraces above.

Superstars have launched from this cliff. The most famous of all was Raul García Bravo, who made over 37,000 dives. He was the star of several commercials, including Timex watches and Johnnie Walker whiskey, which aired throughout the USA and Mexico. During the 1970s, when ABC Wide World of Sports popularized the dives, in their extreme sports slots, it was García who caught the imagination of the public.



In 1963, Elvis Presley's film, 'Fun in Acapulco', featured many local cliff divers, including Raul García. García took his last dive in his mid-60s. He has now retired from the sport, handing over his crown to the younger generation.

La Quebrada is in the old part of Acapulco. Many people prefer to walk to the viewing areas, as it is a very scenic stroll. However, taxis are relatively cheap to reach the spot. The best spots to witness a dive are from the top of the cliff. Small VW-cabs wait at the bottom, especially to convey tourists up the slope. It costs roughy 20-30 pesos to hitch a ride up the steep bit. Arriving half an hour before the performance is advisable, in order to grab the greatest vantage points. (The most favored place is at the bottom of the steps, right at the front.)

The shows are daily, lasting around 25 minutes. The first at 1.30pm, then hourly from 7.30pm through to 10.30pm. It is only the latter where the divers carry torches, as visibility is still strong at the earlier slots. Afterwards, the divers will stand at the top of the stairs, holding a bucket in which to collect tips (10 pesos or a few US dollars is appropriate); otherwise the spectacle is free of charge (unless you're watching from Hotel El Mirador). They will also pose for photographs.

Souvenirs are able from the gift shop in the Hotel El Mirador, or from various shops in the area. Wandering vendors may also shout out their wares. These include food and drink booths.

More Celebrity Spotting in Mexico

So many international celebrities have made Mexico their vacation destination this month, that it was better to collect them all into one blog entry. The alternative was telling you about another one every day! Here is a round up for April and May so far.


Jay Cutler and Kristin Cavallari
Chicago Bears quarterback, Jay Cutler, did everything right in April. He first surprised actress girlfriend, Kristin Cavallari, with a trip to Cabo San Lucas. Once there, the 'Laguna Beach' and 'Hills' star was thrilled to find Jay going down on one knee. He popped the question and Kristin returned to Los Angeles with an engagement ring on her finger.

Kristin has been bouncing with excitement in interviews ever since. "I think we both knew from the moment we met that we wanted to marry each other. It's been a great situation."


Kristin Cavallari's 5.2 carat diamond engagement ring
When Kate Bosworth and her friends decided to take an all girl vacation, then where else could they go but Cancún? The 'Superman Returns' star was a common fixture on the beach, sending the world's press into a frenzy, when she went topless.


None of her friends were so brave, but Kate appeared happy, relaxed and healthy. It appears that her Mexican vacation was just the ticket for her hectic life. She has just finished filming 'Straw Dogs', which is due to hit the silver screen later this year.

It's over to the west coast of Mexico again for the next on our list. Those wishing to indulge in a bit of 'Keeping Up with the Kardashians' should have been in Punta de Mita, just north of Puerto Vallarta. The entire family were there, celebrating Kourtney's 32nd birthday. Quite notably there was NBA basketball champion, Kris Humphries, with his whole attention upon Kim.


The Kardashians were in their beach house for six days, joined by members of the family who aren't usually spotted in their socialite reality TV show. Kourtney's party was held on the beach itself, with many passers by joining in the festivities. But the press only have eyes for Kim and Kris. In the days after returning to New York, they have been spotted looking at engagement rings.

Back up to Los Cabos and it was another girlie getaway weekend for a couple of the stars of 'High School Musical'. Vanessa Hudgens and Ashley Tisdale swopped LA for some Mexican sun and surf during the May Day break.


While there, the friends met up with another American actress, Shelley Buckner. All three spent their days in an exclusive resort, lounging on the beach and soaking up the sun. With their evenings spent exploring the bars and clubs of Cabo San Lucas.


Then it was back to the grind, as they all had filming projects to return to.

Also in Los Cabos this month were another trio of American actresses. Jaime King and Nicole Ritchie were there to help Jessica Alba celebrate her birthday. It was a belated event, as Jessica had been ill on the actual day. That was all rectified with a beautiful beach party in Cabo San Lucas.


Jessica, who announced her second pregnancy in February, appeared utterly relaxed with her bikini and her bump. She had two year old daughter, Honor, with her and the gang all played regularly on the beach or around the pool.


Had they stayed another week, they could well have encountered yet another celebrity couple in Cabo San Lucas. Newly-weds, LeAnn Rimes and Eddie Cibrian, are honeymooning at the Esperanza Resort. Her Tweets have been filled with excitement about it all.

Beautiful night on the beach!!!! How is everyone?!
LeAnn Rimes, 23rd May 2011

What a gorgeous morning! It's a great day to be alive!!!
LeAnn Rimes, 24th May 2011

The couple have been spotted all over town, including the beach, the resort and the Pink Kitty Club. They appear to be very, very much in love.

No news yet on whether they have bumped into the other celebrity couple in town right now. New England Patriots quarterback, Tom Brady, and his Victoria's Secret supermodel wife, Gisele Bundchen, are also currently in Cabo San Lucas.


The couple have been having fun on the beach and around the pool, with Tom particularly rocking their giant waterslide.

Fans of 'Real Housewives of Orange County' might be interested to know that Tamra Barney was also in Cabo San Lucas recently. She visited with boyfriend, Eddie Judge, last weekend, staying at the Casa Dorada Resort.


It appears that things got ranchy in the bar, with Eddie preparing and licking her body, to the cheers of onlookers (visit TMZ.com to see that video).

That's the end of our round up for April and May (so far), but Cabo San Lucas is the current celebrity spotting hotspot, with an option on Cancún.

Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race

There is nothing like the Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race. Every year, for the past 64 years, boats large and small have been docking in Newport, California, for this free-for-all, 125.5 mile competitive gala. It pits professionals against amateurs; and the parties are often as famous as a place on the winner's podium.


The race starts with a fiesta and it ends with several. For many competitors, the festivities continue right through the interim, with the alcohol flowing all the way through their journey to the finishing post. There are also plenty of side-shows. On the eve of this weekend's event, in Newport, there was a 'I Want to Be a Chihuahua Parade', featuring the competitors' dogs in fancy dress.

The annual Newport-to-Ensenada International Yacht Race has long been to competitive sailing what Olympic swimming would be if Michael Phelps shared the pool with a gaggle of guys in inner tubes towing a keg of beer.
Mike Anton, LA Times

Yet there is a serious side too. One winner, Dennis Connor, even mused that it might be more difficult to complete than the America's Cup.


This year, 175 boats entered the race, yet only 167 actually made it off the starting line. Of those, a mere 112 reached Ensenada. While a steady breeze blew them down the coast of the Californias, the crews had to battle against it once they reached Todos Santos.

The difficulty is that no-one knows what to expect. The wind can change direction at any time over the Pacific Ocean and these people are relying upon their sails. Skill plays its part, but so does sheer luck. This is why the race is so popular. Amateurs have an equal chance of winning against the professionals.



This year's winners were:

1. Afterburner (Tennant Bladerunner 52), Bill Gibbs, Pierpont Bay Yacht Club, elapsed time 17 hours 8 minutes 53 seconds, corrected time 22:33:05.
2. Stars and Stripes (Farr 60), Dennis Conner, San Diego YC, ET 18:28:25, CT 20:40:11.
3. Alchemy (Dencho 70), Per Peterson, Oceanside YC, ET 19:20:23, CT 22:16:05.
4. Medicine Man (Andrews 63), Bob Lane, Long Beach YC, ET 19:24:13, CT 22:51:17.
5. Peligroso (Kernan 70), Lorenz Berho, Mexico City, ET 19:45:33, CT 24:02:49.
6. It's OK (Andrews 50), Tres Gordos LLC, ET 19:48:09, CT 21:47:23.
7. Taxi Dancer (Reichel/Pugh 68), Dick Compton/Jim Yabsley/Tom Parker, Santa Barbara YC, ET 20:28:13, CT 23:23:55.
8. Relentless (Santa Cruz 52T), Durant/Shew, Long Beach YC, ET 20:55:19, CT 21:45:31.
9. Stealth Chicken (Perry 56), Tim Beatty, ET 20:58:25, CT 22:07:27.
10. Piranha (Farr 40), David Voss, California YC, ET 21:05:45, CT 21:18:18.

Once all have reached the Pacific town of Ensenada, then the party can really begin. There are the award ceremonies, but there is also a carnival atmosphere throughout the town. The Bahia Hotel is the centerpoint and the place where many of the competitors will have stayed the night. It is here that Ensenada will have laid on its brightest and best entertainment, while the food piles up and the alcohol flows some more.


The Newport of Ensenada Yacht Race (N2E to those in the know) is billed as something that you have to 'do' once in your life. Watching it, and participating in the events around it, is a lot of fun, but experiencing being in that starting line is something else. It will run again this time next year. Plenty of time to get your boat and crew together. Good luck!

The Cave of Swallows

Imagine a pit so deep that it could hold the New York Chrysler Building without a tip of it showing. Such a abyss exists in Mexico. It is the largest cave shaft in the world. It is the Cave of Swallows.



Some measurements:

* Elliptical cave-mouth: 160 by 205 feet (49 by 62 m) wide
* Cave shaft main body: 995 feet (303m) by 440 feet (135m) wide
* Cave's depth (shortest side): 1,094-foot (333 m)
* Cave's depth (highest side): 1,220-foot (370 m)

In Mexico, it is called Sótano de las Golondrinas (Basement of Swallows), because of the birds which make their home there. Unless there are extreme sports people demonstrating their skills, then the birds are the most popular creatures to watch. The pit is so large that it is difficult to gain a sense of its proportions, without seeing the birds fly into it. They freefall, tucking back their wings, so they can plummet into the depths. Then, as they draw near to their nests, their wings are extended. They glide into their perches and rest.

Literally thousands of birds live in this shaft. The vast majority are members of the swift family, hence the name 'Cave of Swallows', though there are also other species. These include the rare cave parrot (cotorras de la cueva) and green parakeets.


Each morning, there is a wondrous spectacle, as the cave's feathered inhabitants flock en masse out of the entrance. The cave's mouth darkens and the sound of their wings is thundrous. It can take up to half an hour to get them all clear; then the sight is repeated, in the evening, when they all come home. Meanwhile, the parakeets spiral out. They emerge as lonely green dots, drifting around the interior far below, coming closer, until they finally reach the top and fly to the skies.



So many birds have lived in this cave, for so long, that the bottom of the pit is spongy to the touch. It is their waste that has built up to carpet the ground. They make their nests amidst the flora that eeks out an existance in the darkened crags. Also at the bottom of the pit are other creatures. Millipedes, scorpions, snakes and all manner of insects. The abyss is a vibrant hub of life, if viewed with the right kind of eyes.



The Cave of Swallows is near to the town of Aquismón, in the state of San Luis Potosi. The local Huastec people viewed it as an entrance to the Underworld. The first foreign explorers were Americans. Three cavers, from Texas, named T.R.Evans, Charles Borland and Randy Sterns, entered the pit on 27th December 1966. They didn't make it all of the way to the floor; returning in 1969 to do that.

Their reports saw interest growing, in the giant hole, throughout the rest of the world. The resulting tourism has changed Aquismón from a small, jungle village, into a thriving hub of amenities. It takes just 20 minutes to walk from the town to the cave. For many, the great attraction are the extreme sports to be had there.


Rock-climbers, cavers, rappellers and BASE Jumpers have all flocked to this site, including one balloonist, who managed to successfully fly a normal sized hot air balloon to the floor of the pit. It can take 10 seconds to BASE Jump down; twenty minutes to abseil; or 1 to 2 hours to climb. Temperatures in the pit can also make life difficult, damaging equipment with its extremes or exhausting the wary. Even highly experienced thrill-seekers and explorers have warned about the Cave of Swallows. (For an example, see this thread, on Cavechat.org.)

However, the sheer number of people visiting, to dive into the cave, has resulted in some restrictions being placed. All sports are banned during the time when the birds are flocking in or out. Also no damage may be done to their nests. The descent into the cave may be made at only one designated spot. Nothing may be thrown into the cave nor left in there afterwards. Helicopters may not be flown near to it. People may not shout into the pit (the echo was great!), as this disturbs the creatures living in there. All of these restrictions came after ornithologists realised how much the bird population was starting to decrease, due to the effect of adventure tourism.

The Yucatan's Cliff-diving Daredevils

Acapulco's cliff-divers are world famous, but how many people knew that this thrill-seeking sport exists on the Yucatan Peninsula too? With 6,400 cenotes dotting the landscape, it can often be a long way down.


The latest round of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series took place, on the Yucatan, this weekend. The centerpoint was the Ik Kil Cenote (sinkhole), near to Chichen Itza. The greatest international cliff-divers gathered to discover who would take the title of the best amongst them. They took turns to launch themselves, from an especially erected diving board, into the wide, gaping mouth of the cenote. Then it was a 27 meter (90ft) free-fall plunge, through thin air, reaching speeds of 40mph before hitting the pool at the bottom.

Colombia's Orlando Duque emerged as the best of them. In second place was last year's winner, Britain's Gary Hunt. However, this is just one round in a global competition. The overall champion will not be crowned until another leg of the series takes them into Athens, Greece, later this year.


Cenotes form all over the porous, limestone bedrock of the Yucatan. As surface water is drawn down, into the rock, it causes submerged pools and rivers. Sometimes this erosion opens up a hole above, allowing access to the wondrous subterranean landscape below. These holes are the cenotes.

Ik Kil translates as Sacred Blue. The Maya often used cenotes as subterranean shrines; with the tunnels leading away from them being part of the rite of passage into adulthood. Young men would have to survive the descent into them and arrive safely out the other side. It was a rebirthing into manhood.

Diving into them, from the surface level, is certainly not recommended for amateurs. It takes great skill and training to cliff-dive like a champion. However, many cenotes have been developed for tourists to visit. Swimming is allowed in them and diving boards have been set up from safe heights.

Sergio Pérez: Formula One Comes Home to Guadalajara

Think Mexico and Formula One and a name immediately comes to mind: Sergio Pérez! The championship BMW Sauber driver is gearing up for the 2011 opening, in the Australian Grand Prix. But first he is coming home, to Guadalajara, in Jalisco, to demonstrate his skills in a city-wide race.


Sergio Pérez
This Saturday, February 26th, Sergio Pérez will be driving last season's C29 car through the streets of Guadalajara. In a specially laid out curcuit, the action will pass by the City Hall and the Cathedral.

He told Formula1.com, "This will be a very special day for me, being at home with my family and all my friends, and running the Formula One car in the city. This will be an additional boost for my motivation before leaving for Bahrain."

As a rising star, Sergio Pérez has had a fantastic career to date. At just 20 years old, he won four races for the Barwa Addax Team, to place second in the 2010 GP2 Series. He had previously been its youngest ever driver to win a race. In 2007, Sergio was the British F3 champion. Then, in October last year, it was announced that he had been snapped up by German Formula One giants, Sauber, for the 2011 Season. He will be Kamui Kobayashi's driving partner.


Sergio Pérez
Sergio, who celebrated his 21st birthday on January 26th, isn't the only car-racing celebrity to be born in the city. His elder brother, Antonio Pérez, is a star of the NASCAR Corona Series. He was its champion in 2008. It will be two for the price of one, on Saturday, as Antonio will also be demonstrating the stock-racing skills that made him famous. They will be bringing with them another NASCAR legend, Germán Quiroga.

Germán Quiroga and Antonio Pérez have spent the last few series head to head, in adrenaline fuelled races; each putting in their all to try and beat each other to take home the NASCAR championship title. For the past two years, it has been Quiroga who took the trophy. However, they will arrive in Guadalajara as best buddies, showing off their cars and treating the crowds to some high-speed racing.


Antonio Pérez

Guadalajara's organizers have laid out a 1.5km (0.9m) circuit through the city's streets. It's all a far cry from the childhood of the brothers Pérez, which Sergio remembers as an eight year old, go-karting close to home, as his first foray into driving. The brothers are thrilled to be home and participating in such an event. "Mexico is hugely excited about the coming season," Sergio said. "It's great we can offer the people an event like this in the run-up to it."

So, see you in Guadalajara on Saturday then?

Edit: You can read a report about this event on Checkered Flag: Perez Receives Ecstatic Reception in Mexico.