Cancun's Illegal Chimpanzees: Coco and Bryan

It is an attraction that Mexican authorities and campaigners would rather not exist at all. Yet tourists, often unaware of the private cruelties and illegal trading, flock to pay their dollars for a souvenir. This is the exploitation of wild, sometimes endangered animals, as props for beach photographers. Cancun and Playa del Carmen have been hotspots for this lucrative business, but awareness and arrests are stamping out the practise.

José Adolfo Caram had long been the target of activists. He was a common sight in the heat of Cancun, parading his 21 year old female chimpanzee, Coco. Tourists awwwed and giggled over her exploits. She could smoke a cigarette or drink a beer. For $10, she would pose for a photograph. For $20, she would be staged in risque positions, like cupping the breast of a woman for the camera.



It was all viewed as very innocent by those onlooking. It was all a bit of fun. It was cute. When asked, Caram explained that he had rescued her from a laboratory, paying extra, as Coco was a prime candidate for experiments. She was his life. All of his money went on her care. He loved her like a daughter. Friends and family would flock to defend him, when anyone expressed any doubts. They all repeated the party line. Coco loved doing this. It was all she knew. Everything was alright.

But the truth was far murkier. By Mexican law, Caram had to be caught in the act of animal cruelty, before the police could intervene. He was very adept at rushing away, when the patrols came into view. Then, last September, he was spotted close to Barceló Hotel, on Boulevard Kukulkan km 4, in Cancun, with a line of tourists awaiting their photograph. The police swooped in.



Caram was not able to produce a single document as evidence of his legal procurement of Coco. An examination of the chimpanzee showed that her teeth had been removed. Caram was immediately arrested and faces up to nine years in prison, along with a hefty fine. Coco has been confiscated, along with the van that he used to transport her.

It is feared that Coco has been a victim of the illegal trafficking in chimpanzees. Native to Africa, hunters will shoot dead the mother and any other adult chimp that gets in their way. Four or five adults may die, simply to be able to pluck the baby from where it's clinging to its mother's corpse. The infants will then face arduous journeys, often across the world, in small boxes. Many do not survive.


Baby chimp rescued from traffickers.
Those which do face a life of beatings and sedatives, in order to keep them calm before the tourists. Some are forced into human clothes, in which they over-heat; or into boots and shoes, which may deform their growing feet. They are estranged from their own kind and forced into unnatural acts, like walking on two feet. They are worked for long hours and encouraged to imbibe anything that the tourists offer, including harmful food, cigarettes and alcohol. At puberty, many chimpanzees become too strong and aggressive to handle, so they are killed.

PROFEPA, the Federal Attorney's Office of Environmental Protection, is currently investigating precisely how much of this common scenario has applied to Coco. In the meantime, she is being housed in a local zoo.


Coco.
Last year, we told you the story of another chimpanzee, which had also been owned by Caram. (Xcaret - The Secret Sanctuary.) Three year old Bryan was in a terrible state. His baby teeth had been smashed out with a blunt instrument. This had been so brutal that shards of them were deeply embedded into the infant's gums. But it did prevent him from ever biting a tourist. After his rescue, Bryan lived safely at Xcaret EcoPark, before being flown to more suitable premises, at Monkey World Ape Rescue Centre, in Great Britain.

It is always nice to know how these stories pan out, so we contacted Monkey World's Animal Manager, Jeremy Keeling, to ask on the progress of Bryan. "Bryan's doing great now. He's a lovely, little lad. He still has his moments, sitting in the back of the room rocking, but overall he's doing great."


May 2011: Bryan (right) enjoying a quiet moment in the sun with foster mum, Sally (left).





Bryan has a home for life at Monkey World. At eight years old, he is being looked after by chimpanzee foster mum, Sally, and a team of human care staff. His adult teeth have all grown, fine and strong. He enjoys playing with foster auntie, Lulu, and the other rescued infants, Ash and Rodders.

Eventually it is possible that Bryan will be introduced to one of the three larger chimpanzee troops. But this is all future speculation. For now, Bryan is happily settled in Sally's group and there are no imminent plans to move him.

Meanwhile, Mexico takes seriously its signature on the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Fauna and Flora (CITES), which includes the protection of chimpanzees. Hesiquio Benítez, the director of International Relations for the National Biodiversity Commission (CONABIO), explained that wildlife trafficking has been a growing concern for some time. He said, "There is considerable illegal transport of wildlife, and according to some estimates, the amount of money involved in the activity may approach that of arms trafficking."

CONABIO and PROFEPA have joined forces, with advice from national and international specialists on each species, to come up with the National Strategy for Combating Illegal Wildlife Trafficking. This has come into force over the past six months and the seizure of Coco was just part of that.


Hesiquio Benítez of CONABIO
Mexico, along with Chile, Costa Rica, Guatemala and the Philippines, formed a delegation, last month, which took such issues to the United Nations. In April, 2011, a Resolution was passed at the 20th Session of the United Nations Commission on Crime Prevention and Criminal Justice, which was held in Vienna.

The Resolution renders it a legal requirement, under international law, for individual governments to work together in combating wildlife trafficking. It also calls for those governments with lax national laws to substantially tighten them up. The hope is that, with UN backing and the raising of awareness, then the cruelties and brutality of this issue will soon be a thing of the past.

Sustainable Tourism Award for Mayakoba

It was 240 square hectares of mangrove forest and jungle, lined with a mile of beautiful, untouched Caribbean beach; and it was ear-marked for tourist development. Green campaigners looked on in horror. There was a delicate eco-system here, which could be lost forever. In the rainforest alone, 300 species of plant and 200 creatures made their home. Then there were the cenotes, the ocean, the lagoon... in short, it felt like the last place ever that someone should be considering building.

But they needn't have worried, as the Mayakoba architects had a vision of sustainable tourism. Last night, with the complex now built and fully operational, their efforts earned them the recognition of the Rainforest Alliance. It is the first tourist resort ever to receive such an accolade. Mayakoba's pioneering green construction looks set the lead the way.


Mayakoba's Rosewood Hotel
The hotels are luxurious. Imagine arriving, after a 20 minute drive from Cancun Airport, through the lush foliage of this stunning part of the world. In the Banyan Tree, one of three of the proposed five hotels already operational, the next part would be to step into a gondola.

You and your luggage would drift the short distance along a crystal clear lagoon. You would dock at a private villa. Patio doors open from the living area into the lagoon. You can dive straight from it into the waters. Or else you could use your personal pool, as each separate villa has one.

But, for now, you climb up out of your gondola and into your villa. Your luggage is brought right inside. You have arrived. From now on, the gondola will serve every time you want to leave your accommodation to venture into the main complex, or out into wider Mexico. Alternatively, you could just use the walkways positioned behind the villa, but where's the romance in that?


Lagoon side villas at Mayakoba's Banyan Tree
There are a proposed five hotels, all independently owned, as well as a Greg Norman signature golf club, in Mayakoba. Three of the hotels have already been built: Banyan Tree, Fairmont and Rosewood; as has the golf club. They have each been constructed in ways that appear sympathetic to the landscape. But moreover, their green credentials are unparalleled.

Andres Pan de Soraluce, the president of OHL Development, who created the complex, explained,

"The Mayakoba vision started with a desire to establish a new tourist development where environmentalism was to take center stage. A lot of planning and infrastructure was put in place to preserve the amazing ecosystem that our development sits on, and we are glad our vision was achieved."

OHL worked with many green campaigners, including the Rainforest Alliance, from the onset of conception, through to design and construction. Planners spent two weeks in the area, surveying the landscape solely looking for environmental pitfalls. They then took this data to the planning table and solutions were sought, which then informed what could and could not be done there.

One of their first concessions was to place all of the main infrastructure 500 meters (1,640ft) back from the beach, away from the dunes in particular. This would protect wildlife in the area.


Mayakoba's Fairmont Hotel
Moreover, the developers looked at other methods of lessening the complex's environmental footprint. Energy and water saving devices were built into the architecture itself. Well-documented, sustainable policies and practices ensured that these are utilized to their maximum capacity. All three hotels are run along ecologically friendly principles.

The human cost hasn't been overlooked either. Out in the jungle, there are Maya villages, where the residents feared being swamped by the business developments. OHL Developers met with representatives from the villages to consult with their needs. These too were incorporated.

Now that three of the hotels are up and running, the partnership continues. Tourists are encouraged to venture out into the villages, in order to meet the local people. For the communities, their economy is growing as a result. Who better than the locals to guide jungle tours and boat rides through the wider lagoon? Or to host cultural events, which boost awareness of the Maya? It is also local Maya people who run the traditional purification rituals, on offer to guests at the Mayakoba hotels.


All of this added up to a sparkling gala award ceremony, held in New York, USA, last night. Tensie Whelan, president of the Rainforest Alliance, gave a speech in which Mayakoba was praised for its work.

"Companies are continuing to make bold commitments to sustainability and traceability, despite ongoing instability in the economic environment. The companies and individuals honored during our annual gala deserve recognition for their demonstrated commitments to sustainability. Collectively, their efforts are enormously beneficial to workers, to communities and to the environment."

The Rainforest Alliance campaigns to protect the environment, particularly the rainforests, as their name suggests. They are more likely to be found protesting the concerns of corporations, than handing out awards to them. That Mayakoba made the grade demonstrates just how much work and green practices have been put in place in their complex.


Ocean side villas at Mayakoba's Banyan Tree

Lagoon side villas at Mayakoba's Fairmont

Lagoon side villas at Mayakoba's Rosewood

5th Avenue, Playa del Carmen

The hustling, bustling heart of Playa del Carmen is Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue to you and I). The street runs parallel to the Caribbean Sea for around twenty blocks. It is fully pedestrianized, cobblestoned and lined with flea markets, shops, restaurants and hubs of entertainment, as well as amazing street theater.

But this alone is not what makes it so special. It's the atmosphere. It's the community hanging out, shopping, dining, having fun. Some of the restaurants have roof terraces, upon which it's a beautiful thing to sit and watch the world go by.

The daytime there feels relaxed and happy, despite the meandering of folk from store to store. That just adds to it. At night, it feels truly electric there. The perfect tropical avenue and the pulse of Playa's cultural offerings.

Some of the stores on Quinta Avenida are common throughout many city centers; others are the recurring tourist orientated shops that spring up in any Mexican resort. However, the charm of shopping here comes in the majority of small, family-owned premises that give this avenue its character. You will also find large number of them in streets and alleys leading off the main stretch.

There are handmade, unique pieces of jewellry to be found here, which will never be created again. The chain stores will sell the stereotypical Mexican clothing, but some of the small boutiques have what Mexicans really wear. There are equisite, authentic handicrafts. Amongst the sombreros and ponchos, there are souvenirs of your visit that you will want to wear or display long after you have returned home. There are also luxury boutiques with merchandise catering definitely for the yachting classes.



Day and night, on 5th Avenue, Play del Carmen
As a rule of thumb, the closer to the ferry dock you are, then the louder the music and the more young, hip and trendy it is. As you progress away from it, then the culture gets more refined, the music quietens to accoustic and the merchandise on offer grows ever more expensive, as the quality grows. There really is something for everyone here. Just pick your ambience!

In the flea market especially, but also in some of the shops, be prepared to bring out your bargaining skills. Prices may initially start high, as the retailer is expecting you to negotiate a deal. For those unused to this way of shopping, this is how it's done in Mexico! If you feel uncomfortable, just say 'no gracias' (pronounced 'no gra-the-ass') and continue you on your way. You won't have offended anyone! (For more tips: How to Haggle for Goods at the Mercado.)

There's not just shopping on Quinta Avenida. Throughout the length of it, there are other places of interest to visit. Art galleries and studios, exhibitions, small museums and churches are amongst them.


Quinta Avenida is known for its street theater, alongside the entertainment happening inside the bars themselves. People strolling along the avenue never quite know what they will encounter. Performers range from the traditional to the bizarre, but always draw a crowd.

I was able to catch on a Saturday night a reenactment of a Mayan dance ritual perfomed by Mayan Indians, just off of 5th Ave. Words can't describe the costumes, performance and sounds that I witnessed, it was just incredible. We were a group of approx 50 people who gathered around them and watched in amazement.
MissMissPia on TripAdvisor

As well as fire juggling, circus performances, acted scenes, music and dancing, there is also street art. Whether on canvas, paper or on the pavement itself, these artists are often surrounded by passers-by, enthralled at the talent on display. It all adds to the general buzz of the place.


The Blue Parrot. There's a fire show, nightly, at 11pm.
Quinta Avenida is a marvellous place to just wander along, seeing what's there to be seen; sampling local fare; pausing by an artist or street performer; exploring the shops or drifting into a bar.

Please note that throughout this blog, I've been saying 'stroll', 'drift', 'meander' and 'wander'. Quinta Avenida isn't somewhere to rush down, it's all about an amble to take in all the sights, sounds, smells and color.

If you are in Playa del Carmen, then it's definitely not an avenue to miss out. Once you're done, then turn a corner and you're back on the beach again.


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El Camaleón: A Greg Norman Signature Golf Course in Mayakoba

Imagine the scene. You are landscaping your location for a golf course, according to plans laid out by the legendary Greg Norman. The sun is shining; the ocean is sparkling; the day is great and the future looks even rosier. You manoeuvre your bulldozer into the earth and bam! A huge sinkhole opens up in front of you. What do you do?



For Greg Norman and the staff of the Mayakoba El Camaleón Golf Course, the answer is simple. You revise your plans to create a brand new feature - a cenote at the first hole! The result is a world-class course, which is the PGA Tour's only Mexican venue.



Tomorrow, the eyes of the world's golfing media will be on this course. Australia's Aaron Baddeley and Venezuela's Jhonattan Vegas will be taking to the field, in a televised round of the PGA Mayakoba Golf Classic. This is only days after Baddeley just pipped Vijay Singh to claim the Northern Trust Open championship title, in California.

Of course, it's not just professionals who can play here. It is open to the public too. If water hazards are your golfing thing, then the Greg Norman designed El Camaleón Golf Course is the one for you. This course is unique in the world of golfing for some of its features, which include long limestone canals, mangrove forests, dense jungle, lagoons, open beachfront and a huge cenote.

There is a lot of water on the Yucatán Peninsula, but most of it is underground. The porous limestone channels much of the surface water into subterranean caverns and natural canals. At Mayakoba, Playa del Carmen, these have been opened up the elements, with the El Camaleón Golf Course fashioned around it.



The result is a stunningly picturesque 18-hole, par 72 course. The terrain is ever-changing, meaning that even frequent visitors will discover something new. Golfers can opt to be ferried to the first hole via a canal, or they could walk across the manicured Paspalum grass. There are several tough holes to test even seasoned golfers, with the most infamous being hole 6. This narrow shot incorporates a canal and a bunker, while risking interference on the ball from ocean breezes.

El Camaleón is a championship course. In 2007, the only PGA Tour event to be held outside the USA and Canada opened here. It returned again, in February 2010, when Cameron Beckman took the Mayakoba Golf Classic trophy. Of course, it's back there right now.



There are plenty of other amenities around the course too. These include a Pro-Golf shop; equipment and apparel to rent; three restaurants; carts with GPS technology to measure distance, provide yardage information and order food and drinks; the Jim McLean Golf Academy; and, of course, the beach.

Jack Nicklaus signature golf courses are also in the area: Golfing on the Riviera Maya.

For more information about golf courses and opportunities to play upon them, it is worth visiting Best Golf in Cancun.

Riviera Maya Environmental Film Summit

It's been a big week for VIPs and celebrities coming to Mexico. Madonna had the grand opening, in Mexico City, of her Hard Candy Fitness Club; Britney Spears is celebrating her 29th birthday in Puerto Vallarta; and a host of stars, including Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Aniston and Chelsea Handler, are simply here on vacation. Meanwhile, in Cancún, much weightier matters were being discussed by the great and the good.


Greenpeace Climate Change balloon over Chichén Itzá
The United Nations Climate Change Conference has brought ambassadors from 193 nations into Cancún. The decisions that they make here will affect us all for generations to come. On the agenda are pledges from governments to limit their country's carbon emmissions; explorations of carbon-neutral technologies; a 'green fund' awarded to developing nations to stop deforestation and assist them in reining in their greenhouse gases; and the hearing of evidence, from across the globe, about the reality of climate change.

To tie in with this, yet more celebrities have descended upon the Riviera Maya. This is for the first Environmental Film Summit, which has attracted directors, actors, screenwriters and movie animal trainers, as well as activists keen to clarify the actual science behind the glitz and glamour. Theaters throughout the region are showing movies with an environmental theme, as part of the film summit.

One of its organizers, Jose Maria Valenzuela, from the Sustainable Development Foundation, explained how movies are a great way to raise awareness amongst the general public. He add, "Cinema is one of the best tools to involve society in environmental protection and the development of indigenous peoples."

Festivities kicked off, last Wednesday, with a showing of Academy Award winning picture, 'The Cove'. Ric O'Barry, the star of the American-made movie, was amongst those viewing it, at Benito Juarez Poliforum, in Cancún.

'The Cove' highlights the plight of thousands of dolphins and porpoises killed, each year, by the whaling industry. As well as its Academy Award, for best documentary, it also received the Audience Award, at the 25th annual Sundance Film Festival.

O'Barry made his name as a dolphin trainer, for the popular show 'Flipper'. He later changed course, becoming an activist on dolphin related issues. This was after a dolphin apparently committed suicide in his arms, by closing its blow-hole in order to suffocate itself.

'The Cove' is just one of 7 feature length movies, 12 shorts and several animated shorts, which will be shown as part of the summit. The Mexican resorts of Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Cozumel and Cancún are all lending their movie theaters for the event.

The hub of events is Hacienda Tres Ríos, just north of Playa del Carmen. This is a luxury resort, which is also at the forefront of local conservation concerns. It is built entirely out of sustainable, natural materials, while the grounds and guided tours are all about protecting wildlife, the environment and safeguarding the region's cultural traditions.

It is at Hacienda Tres Ríos where the Environmental Film Summit will culminate. Judges will view each of the film entries, air their critiques and award prizes, based on how well the film-makers raise awareness of the issues at hand. The event is open for anyone to go and see the movies. If you're in the vicinity, it would be well worth taking the trip over there to check it out.

Viva Mexico!

It might feel a little soon to be writing about September or November 2010, but this year is a little special. Besides, if anyone wishes to be here for it, then you really need to be booking up flights and accommodation in advance. The whole of 2010 is significant for Mexico, as it's both our bicentennial and our centennial year.



On September 16th 1810, the bells were tolled to signal the War of Independence, which ultimately led to freedom from Spain. 100 years later, on November 20th, 1910, the Mexican Revolution began. This finally established true democracy throughout the country. It is now 2010 and parties, parades and other celebrations will mark the anniversary of both major events.

Both are generally celebrated in annual events anyway. At midnight on September 15th, Mexicans will gather in the street to ring their bells. El Grito de la Independencia (Independence Cry) will be yelled out, usually taking the form of someone re-enacting the historic speech given by Padre Miguel Hidalgo. This Catholic priest was the man who sparked the whole movement into independence. At the end, everyone goes wild, screaming, 'Viva Mexico!' until hoarse; then parties ensue until the early hours of September 16th.

Much of this will be happening in downtown areas or over on Isla Mujeres, so those of you booking for Cancún might need to venture out of the Hotel Zone. However, if you do wish to stay put, you won't miss out. El Grito is relayed through the big screens of the nightclubs and even the small screens of the hotel bars.

Here is a taste of how that looked last year, though this video doesn't show the fireworks filling the skies, nor the music and dancing accompanying the festivities:



The next day, on September 16th itself, there will be a grand military parade through the streets of the city. Thousands of locals and tourists alike traditionally turn out to view this amazing spectacle. Meanwhile, the Viva México En Cancun festival runs throughout the month, with numerous exhibitions, demonstrations, street entertainment, food tasting events, vibrant folk music and dancing, craft stalls, film screenings and the like. The event list is too vast and packed to be squeezed into a little blog.

If you are planning to visit the area for that, then it's also worth noting that Chichén Itzá is the place to be at Autumn Equinox. It is here, at dawn on September 21st, that the stairs of El Castillo are subject to a natural phenomenon, which was quite intended by the ancient Maya architects. The god, Kukulkan, can quite plainly be seen, in the shadows cast by the sun's rays, descending the stairs as a feathered serpent.

November 20th, Día de la Revolución (Revolution Day), is marked by a bank holiday in Mexico, where many of the stores, banks etc will be closed. However, that just paves the way for a host of other attractions, unique to the day. This year, more than ever.



In Cancún, it will be a very family orientated day. The festivities start in the Main Square, Avenida Tulum, in downtown Cancún, at 8.30am, with a huge parade through the streets. Alongside city dignatories and students, there will be gymnasts and acrobats delighting the crowds. The parade also depicts scenes from Mexican history, while celebrating many aspects of its culture. The rest of the day will be riot of fun and galas, with speeches, patriotic events, rodeos and just downright partying.

The next day, a trip to Playa del Carmen should be on the cards. It is here, on November 21st, 2010, that the Taste of Playa del Carmen food festival is being held. Twenty sponsors and over 25 restaurants will be pooling resources to deliver the very best in Mexican cuisine. 3000 people are expected to throng through the streets, sampling a little here and a bit there. This is the opportune moment to sample those unfamiliar dishes that you were always too nervous to try before.

There is a lot more going on besides, not least the Cancún Riviera Maya Film Festival (Nov 17-21st, 2010) and the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival (Nov 24th-27th, 2010).

In short, being in Mexico at this time is like visiting the USA for July 4th. It really is an unmissable celebration.

Golfing on the Riviera Maya

(People-watching in Cancún) A man looks up with an expression of pure wonder and delight. Grinning broadly, he exclaims, "There's a Jack Nicklaus signature golf course here!"

His adult daughter frowns, "I didn't know that he was into golf."

"Jack Nicklaus?" Her father is both bemused and bewildered. "I'd say that he's very 'into golf'."

She's not convinced, "Just because he can act, doesn't mean that he's good at golf." Uncertainty piqued, "Or is he?"

"Act?"

"The actor!" His daughter clarifies the issue, "The one out of 'The Shining'!"

"I think you'll find that's Jack Nicholson." He chuckles. "Totally different person."



Jack Nicklaus did indeed design a local championship golf course - at the Moon Palace Spa and Golf Club, Cancún. It's one of two Nicklaus signature courses on the Riveria Maya. The other is at the Mayan Palace, further down the coast towards Playa del Carmen. Further north, he has a third at the Yucatán Country Club, in Mérida. They are only three of the magnificent golf courses available, for seasoned golfers and hacking amateurs alike, in the region.

In 2003, the Mexican Open was held at Moon Palace. The tournament was part of the wider Tour de las Americas, with Colombia's Eduardo Herrera winning in Mexico. Jeff Burns (USA) and Eduardo Argiro (Argentina) were the runners up. When it's not being used for world class championships, Moon Palace is one of many courses open to the general public on the Mexican Caribbean.

If you are a golfing enthusiast, then watch this space. We have news of the best golf in Cancún coming up soon.

Rio Secreto: Conversation and Tourism

50 million years ago, the Yucatán Peninsula was just drying out from being under a warm, shallow sea.   During this time, billions of fish and other creatures had lived and died in the proto-Caribbean Sea.   Their remains sank to the bottom of the waters and were buried in the sediment.   They were joined by the ancient coral and tiny marine insect life.    Then, as the sea receded, land emerged.   The fragmented remains of all these creatures and plantlife became crushed together, compacted, and, as the millennia passed, hardened and became limestone.

Limestone changes in water.   As the drip, drip of surface moisture passed through the Earth, from uncountable years of rainfall, some of this limestone began to erode.   First cracks, then holes, then caves, then caverns, then wondrous subterranean natural cathedrals were etched out of the rock.   Long before humankind had even stood up on two legs, an underground river was starting to twist its way through the early stalactites and stalagmites; crystal clear water pooling.   One tiny drop after another tiny drop, in endless succession, in patient formation.

Thus it was that, four million years ago, Rio Secreto began.   It is one of the best kept secrets of Playa del Carmen.  A subterranean Wonderland, based in a series of caverns, 13km (8 miles) deep.   It has only been open to the public for just under three years.   Those visiting it tend to emerge, in blogs and forums, or excitedly chattering to friends, saying such things as, "OMG!  If you do nothing else in Mexico, go there!  Go there!"  or "Wow!  That was really spiritual.  I'm going to have to contemplate this.  Excuse me..."  or "I've been all over the world and seen so many wonders, but Rio Secreto has blown my mind."    Yep.  I don't think it's going to be a 'best kept secret' for much longer.




But the owners of Rio Secreto have a deep responsibility here and they know it.   When a system has taken longer to evolve than we have, then destroying it in the name of a quick buck is worse than criminal.   Therefore, they have gone out of their way to ensure that it can be seen, whilst maintaining minimal damage.   It's a hard call, particularly when bending to the pressure of tourist convenience could make them all very quickly rich.   Yet the owners are steadfast.    They are all passionate and knowledgeable about conversation.   Even students are starting to be directed towards them, in order to learn about ecological sustainability.

Visitors are required to have a quick, rinse-down shower before entering the caverns.   This can be done in their swimming suits, but ensures that harmful chemicals, such as might be found in perfume, sunscreen, deodorant or insect repellent, isn't carried in to pollute the pristine waters.   Even band-aids and jewellery have to be removed, in case they fall into the environment.   There are two tourist routes through the system, carefully planned to minimalize damage caused by people banging into rocks.   Multi-lingual guides are always on hand to steer their parties in the right direction.  There are discreet ropes both to mark the route and to politely keep tourists on it.

One of the other measures, often commented upon by visitors, is the lighting.   Those at Rio Secreto have resisted the temptation, endemic in other subterranean attractions, of placing electric lighting throughout the caverns.   In fact, there is no electricity down there at all.   Instead, visitors see the spectacular sights by use of Davey Lamps.  These specially adapted torches are fitted onto helmets, lighting up wherever the head is turned to see.   The result is not only a sublimely magical ambience, but it also protects the rocks.   You see, the limestone is still forming and the caverns still growing; the river and pools are still getting deeper, drop by drop.   Rio Secreto has learned the lessons of other cavern attractions, where electric lighting creates moss, which spreads and eats away at the very things that everyone has come to see.




Another policy is more controversial amongst visitors, but entirely understandable in the circumstances.   This is the banning of cameras and camcorders underground.   Pictures are taken, but by a company photographer, who takes four quality snaps of each party.   These can be purchased for a price, once everyone is out again.   One photograph for $25 or a DVD of all four for $59.   Many have bulked at this and screamed 'scam!', as some people are wont to do.    But there are very good reasons for this camera prohibiton and not all of them are commercial.

The first is purely and simply to do with health and safety.    The tourist routes aren't overly arduous (young children and the elderly have managed them with relative ease), but the owners refuse to harm the environment by putting down walkways.   This means that visitors walk, wade or swim through the natural ways.  Sometimes that involves watching their footing, therefore the guides would rather people weren't distracted by trying to take the perfect photograph.    There's also the fact that cameras in hands mean that people haven't got both hands free.   This can be problematic, when there are narrow, rocky areas to traverse.   Not to mention the fact that photographers, who don't pay attention to their surroundings, could well be knocking off fragments of the formations.

The second reason is to do with the ambience of the place.   The selective lighting renders a sacred air to the caverns.   The ancient Maya did use them as a place of meditation and worship, so this isn't entirely imaginary.    Most who visit the place emerge expressing gratitude at the lack of camera flashes.   It would have totally detracted from the atmosphere.

The third and final reason is commercial.   This is something that commercial manager, Gavin Greenwood, has apologetically defended.   "I must also however point out here that given our current global economic struggle, soaring costs, and terribly expensive distribution channels (especially in tourism) our hand is sometimes forced beyond where we would like to be."




Rio Secreto is a business.   That should not be something to be sneered at, even if all of the members of staff are ecologically aware.   If they were just doing it for extra profit to get rich, fair enough.   But that isn't why they are doing it.   While Rio Secreto own the subterranean caverns, they do not also own all of the miles of land above it.   If they went out of business, then there is nothing to stop landowners snapping up the cavern below them and then digging down to create their own entrances.  It's not a hollow fear, as it's already happened in the past, with previous owners.   A concrete door is the legacy, something which would damage the system more to remove than to keep.

As Gavin Greenwood explained, "I cannot protect Rio Secreto from fast-encroaching urban sprawl and the hoards of profit-mongers that lurk in the wings if I cannot ensure that we have a viable business. No business means no conservation of the site."    All of the money, from the photographs sold, go straight into the conversation fund for the caverns.  No-one forces tourists to buy them, but when they do, the funds are gratefully received.   Greenwood added, "There is no sustainability if there is no triple bottom line: environmental protection/conservation; healthy community development; and profitable business."

In the meantime, the whole company seeks to spread its message of conservation, protecting our natural resources and sustainability; whilst also providing a stunning attraction for visitors to their complex.   Go to Rio Secreto.   It's worth it.

Nightlife in Playa del Carmen

Dubai Club (Ex Bali)

Dubai night club is a fairly new place to party in Playa. However, in little time it has become one of the best places to enjoy music, dance, and party.
All in all a great club, with Indonesian inspired decor and a good sound system. The music did tend to vary rather drastically from deep house, vocal trance, to local pop. The decoration evokes the mysticism of Indonesia's Islands, perfectly mixed with the modernity of the night club.
Dubai's concept provides a multi-level, eclectic DJ, and indoor air-conditioned, inside you have a great view to the dance floor, as its capacity is for 1,200 persons. It's located in a great location opposite La Santanera club on 12th between 5th and 10th.
Dubai is popular among celebrities as is very common to see live concerts here. It also has live performances by outstanding International acrobats on week days (Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays).

Blue Parrot

The Blue Parrot is a lively outdoor club/bar with BBQ and lots of action. This club goes after hours and has theme nights as well.
Blue Parrot was named by Newsweek in 1998 as one of the best ten bars around the world. This place is a must-see to party for locals, and has become famous for its big wooden swing chairs around the bar. You can enjoy the music while resting in the white sand beach and the waves are literally touching the dance floor. Inside the Palapa lounge yo will enjoy chill out music and a mix of progressive popular music.
This is a day and night club, so if you are not interested in partying by night, you can relax throughout the day will listening to de DJ put soft and sensual music. You can also eat and drink from 7:30 in the morning to 6 in the afternoon.

 
Alux

El Alux is most definitely amazing - it's a real, alive cave that has been turned into an incredible bar, restaurant and series of winding passageways that lead to various VIP bars and hang-outs complete with growing stalagmites and stalactites and the coolest of uber-cool decor.
Walking down into the cave you're first greeted by hosts at the entrance and shown into either the bar or restaurant. Each of the cocktails are stamped with the bars signature take on the drink, many even created purely by the bar itself and utilizing traditional Mexican ingredients. The service here is top notch.
For the use as a restaurant, the cave was developed similar to a show cave. There are concrete paths, electric light and handrails. Numerous chambers were transformed into different kinds of pubs. There is a restaurant which seats 150 persons, a Bar Lounge for 110 persons which allows live concerts, a side branch of the cave is coverted into a VIP space, Bar Tortuga is a private bar for up to 50 persons, which may be booked for receptions, and finally Salón Califa is another VIP area.

Playa del Carmen

Playa del Carmen is located in the Mexican Caribbean coast, just 40 miles (60 kms.) south of Cancun, Mexico. The town of Playa del Carmen hugs the coast along blue Caribbean water and fine white sand.

Originally a small fishing town, tourism to Playa del Carmen began with the passenger ferry service to Cozumel, an island across the Cozumel Channel and world-famous scuba diving destination.

Although most of Playa's population is local, many people come here from other parts of Mexico and the world. Among them you can find painters, musicians, dancers and actors who may surprise you with high quality performances in some local bar or café.

The city of Playa del Carmen is divided into several sections. Avenida Quinta, "Fifth Avenue", is a pedestrian only street running parallel to the beach north from the central plaza. Fifth Avenue is the heart of Playa del Carmen's cultural life, and is lined with restaurants, shops and hotels. The northern end of Fifth Avenue is called the "New Fifth". This is an upscale area with new construction, brick lined streets and a more European flavor. 

A Mayan-themed "ecological theme park", Xcaret is a popular tourist destination just south of the town. 

Most shops and establishments are attended directly by the owners; therefore, service in Playa's restaurants, dive shops and clothing stores is excellent. The Riviera Maya is well known for it delicious food and great variety of cuisine; Playa is specially diverse in it's cuisine, given the large amount of tourists and locals from South America and Europe.

The wide variety of activities offered along the coast is also available here: windsurfing, diving, horseback riding, bicycle rentals, snorkeling and gyms, as well as yoga, dance and drum classes. 

Nightlife is definitely important in Playa del Carmen, but is not as wild as its neighbor to the north, Cancun. Typically, Playa's shops and restaurants close around 10pm, but nearly all of the clubs stay open through most of the night. A number of the best nightclubs are located on the beach. If you are interested in nightlife, then be sure to visit Blue Parrot, El Pirata, Santenera, and Hotel Deseo.

Gay Vacations in the Riviera Maya

Riviera Maya is the coastline from Cancún down to Tulúm. It is fast becoming the vacation destination of choice for the international gay community. They are all the same reasons that heterosexual families flock to the Méxican Caribbean - the paradise setting; the tropical weather; the beautiful beaches; the Mayan archaeological sites; the party atmosphere; the food, drink and fun. However, there is the added benefit that, unlike many other countries, México welcomes them. The gay vacationer can enjoy the same civil rights as at home or, in some cases, even exceed them.




Homosexuality was never banned in México. This legal status was strengthened in 2001, when the Federal Constitution, article 1, was amended to prohibit discrimination based on 'preferences'. This was clarified further in 2003, when a Federal Anti-Discrimination Law was passed. The wording made it absolutely clear that no-one could be persecuted for their homosexuality. A whole department was set up to enforce the law throughout the country.

Finally, in 2009, federal law legalized same-sex marriage, though it was up to the individual states whether they wished to allow this under state law. So far, México City and the state of Coahuila have signed up, but Quintana Roo can't be far behind. It is also legal in México for transgender people to officially change their name and gender; and for homosexuals to adopt children. There are openly gay and transgender elected politicians. (For details about the age of consent, please see a previous blog entry, 'Is It Legal?')

The Riviera Maya isn't awash with exclusively gay resorts and clubs, though they do exist. This is mainly because it's not seen as that big a deal. Gay men and women just merge with their heterosexual counterparts, simply eyeing up a different gender in the clubs. However, Cancún traditionally hosts an International Gay Festival in May and a smaller festival in the fall. There was a Pride Parade in the city during June.

There are three main exclusively gay clubs in the Riviera Maya:

* Picante Bar, in Cancún, has been going strong since the 1980s. The clientele are mixed gay men and lesbians. There are theme nights, including drag queens, strippers, Go-Go Boys and drink promotions. Thursday is always tequila night, complete with free shots to start the party rolling. It's quite a small venue that can get very crowded after midnight, when all of the locals turn up. It is located in downtown Cancún, at El Centro, in the Plaza Gallerias, on Av. Tulum 20.

* Karamba Bar, in Cancún, is the largest club/disco catering mostly to gay men. The party only really starts after midnight, when the locals finish work and rush to the club. Entertainment includes drag queens, strippers and karaoke, but the club is mainly known for its disco and great atmosphere. There will be a Mr Gay Mexico Competition held there on October 26th, 2010, though there's plenty of eye candy for the rest of the year too. It is located in downtown Cancún, at El Centro, on Av. Tulum 11. More details on their website

* Playa 69, in Playa del Carmen, is the only exclusively gay hangout there. The clue to the tone of the place is in its title, so expect a lot of explicit cruising inside. The crowd are generally 20-30s; the decor is largely mirrored; and the music a mix of hot beats and trance. Again the party really kicks off after midnight with the arrival of the locals. It is located in 5th Ave, between Calle 4 and Calle 6, next door to the 7-11 store.

As for hotels, you will not find one turning away your custom based on your sexuality. If you do prefer that extra security though, it's worth noting that Cancún's Hyatt Hotel has listed itself in the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association; while the six room, boutique hotel, Casa Sirena, on Isla Mujeres, is not only owned by a gay couple, but was named TripAdvisor's number one B&B on the island.

There is no 'official' beach catering solely for gay men and women. Unofficially tourists and locals alike tend to congregate in a section of Playa Delfines beach (just south of the Hilton Hotel), in Cancún. This is often the starting point for festival and Pride activities too.

In addition to these venues, the gay community get to visit all the same attractions, clubs, bars, restaurants and beaches as every other tourist. Therefore, it's not hard to see why Rivera Maya is being recommended on gay travel sites and is increasingly awash in the pink currency.

Pirates of the Caribbean - Jean LaFitte

Jean LaFitte (pron. La-Feet) claimed to have been born in France and some biographers believe him. Others point out that French nationality helped greatly in avoiding the enforcement of American law at the time. And the Americans had a lot of reasons for wanting to enforce their law upon this notorious pirate.

If Jean LaFitte wasn't born in France, then it is likely that he started life in the French territory of Saint-Domingue (Haiti), in 1782, and moved to Louisana, USA, as an infant. He grew up exploring the wetlands and bayous south of New Orleans, until he'd memorized every inlet in the Gulf of Mexico. By 1805, LaFitte was running a warehouse in New Orleans, though which he trafficked the goods smuggled into the country by his brother, Pierre. Life was good until 1807, when the Embargo Act banned any American ship from docking at a foreign port. Lousiana had become part of the United States of America only three years before, but this meant that the brothers could not ply their trade as openly as before.

The brothers LaFitte decided to set up a private port on the island of Barataria. It was sparsely populated area and so small boats could slip beneath the watchful eyes of the custom officers. Business boomed again, as many privateers began to use this port, unloading their large cargos there, then ferrying the goods via barges into New Orleans. The brothers were soon bored though and so brought themselves a schooner, in October 1812. They were ready to become fully fledged pirates in the Gulf of Mexico.



The USA authorities tried, on several occasions, to arrest the brothers. However, this was difficult as the US navy was in its infancy, so was often overwhelmed and outrun at sea; while the people of New Orleans refused to testify against them, as they brought in goods and luxuries far more cheaply than the official sources could. Finally, in 1814, a high ranking citizen did give evidence at a trial against Pierre LaFitte. He was jailed for piracy, leaving Jean LaFitte to run amok alone on the high seas.

This was the time of the American War of Independence and the British were quick to see the strategic value of being able to use the port at Barataria. From there, they could launch naval attacks upon the American colonies. LaFitte was approached with both a carrot and a stick. If he agreed to let the British navy use his pirate port, then he would be given British landholdings, great wealth and the use of the British navy as personal protection. If he refused, then the same British navy would destroy the port. LaFitte asked for 15 days to consider it, then copied the letters and sent them to the American authorities in New Orleans. Within two days, Pierre LaFitte was allowed to escape from jail.

The Americans were taking no chances though. Gunships set out from New Orleans and found the Baratarian port. A battle took place, which the pirates lost. Many were arrested and taken back to New Orleans, but the LaFitte brothers both escaped. However, General Andrew Jackson had arrived in the city and he was horrified at how poorly defended it was. In particular, despite having a swollen fleet filled with captured pirate ships, they had no-one skilled enough to sail them. Forever opportunists, the LaFitte brothers struck a deal whereby any pirates fighting the British, on behalf of the Americans, would immediately be released with full pardon. Jackson accepted and the LaFittes, along with many pirates, received commendations for their 'courage and fidelity' in the Battle of New Orleans. They all received full pardons on February 6th 1815.

This, of course, did not stop the piracy. He took hundreds of ships and their cargo throughout the Gulf of Mexico. In fact, Jean LaFitte openly admitted to piracy in his later years, though he took care to keep his ports outside the USA. His most notable settlement was on Galvaston Island, in Texas, which was under Spanish, then Mexican control at the time. This was effectively a new and improved Barataria, until he was run off it in 1821. Then Jean LaFitte moved operations to Isla Mujeres, in the Yucatán, where he set about building his third and final base. However, it wasn't as large as his previous ports on Barataria and Galvaston, but is significant as he died there in 1826.

The manner of his death has passed into legend, with many different accounts. No-one knows for certain how it happened or where his body lies. Some say that he was killed by a Spanish warship out at sea, but his official biographer, Jack C Ramsey, wrote that Captain Jean LeFitte died of fever on Isla Mujeres. On the island, local oral history concurs and, furthermore, states that before he died, he buried treasure on their beaches. Tourists have been looking for it ever since.

* Posada del Capitan LaFitte, Playa del Carmen: A beachside resort overlooking an inlet which LaFitte used during his piracy.

* Hotel Petit LaFitte, Playa del Carmen: Another hotel in the same inlet used by LaFitte.

* Dzilam de Bravo, Progreso, Yucatán: Plaque commemorating him placed there by CEDAM. There is a tombstone in the cemetery there with the legend, 'Jean LaFitte ReExhumed'.

* Look out to sea. There have been numerous reports, from oil workers on platforms and fishermen in boats, that occasionally a ghostly fleet of pirate ships can been seen around the Gulf of Mexico. This has been credited as being Captain Jean LaFitte and his crew.

* Lord Byron's poem, 'The Corsair': Some scholars say that it's not about Greek pirates at all, but it is about Jean LaFitte.

O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,
Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free,
Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam,
Survey our empire, and behold our home!
These are our realms, no limits to their sway—
Our flag the sceptre all who meet obey.
Ours the wild life in tumult still to range
From toil to rest, and joy in every change.
'The Corsair' by Lord Byron, 1814