Cancún and Isla Mujeres Underwater Art Museum

The picture above is entitled 'The Silent Revolution' by Jason de Caires Taylor. At first glance, it may appear as people trudging slowly over a strange, barren landscape, while the sky above casts a heavy, blue glow. However, there is something very different about this artwork. For a start, the ground is the seabed. The bizarre blueness is explained once you realise that it is all the Caribbean Sea. This is concept art and the finished product will be underwater.

The figures are life-sized sculptures, their faces cast from real life people living in the Yucatan today. They are shown as a progression of the historical population of Mexico. Some are in the dress of the earliest settlers of Mexico; others clothed as the Maya or the Aztecs or the Spanish Conquistadors or the 19th century revolutionaries or any other period that you care to mention. Those at the front are modern people; some have been cast from the faces of international tourists.

'The Silent Revolution' is currently being installed, in the strait between Cancún and Isla Mujeres. It is just one of a series of intricate and immense artwork being lowered into place there, creating the largest underwater art display in the world. The whole project will eventually consist of 400 sculptures, occupying 150 square meters of ocean floor. It began in November 2009 and will continue being added to until 2012; then it will remain as a permanent, 120 ton exhibition.

Some sculptures have already been secured into place:


La Jardinera de la Esperanza (The Gardener of Hope)


El Coleccionista de los Sueños Perdidos (The Archive of Lost Dreams)


Hombre en Llamas (Man on Fire)

The sculptures are more than just beautiful works of art. They have an important environment purpose too. They are especially created from materials which enable natural coral growth. The marine life that ordinarily clings to reefs will also form around this artwork; an attribute which is vital in an area where the coral reefs have been damaged over time. They provide somewhere for this life to cling onto. In turn, the marine life changes each sculpture, as flora forms upon it and fish, shrimp and other creatures teem around it.

Moreover, the sculptures lift the pressure from the entirely natural reefs. Tourists, snorkelers, divers and fishers may well choose to visit the art, instead of the coral. The sight is just as stunning and the fish are the same, only the foundation is less fragile. With fewer visitors than before, the actual coral reef is given a chance to repair and heal.

All in all, Jason de Caires Taylor's vision has grown from a magical concept into a wonderful, life-saving, stunning reality. To see more, please visit his site.

Mexico City - The City of the Gods.

It was 1519 and the Spanish Conquistadors had been hearing about the fabled Aztec capital city of Tenochtitlán all the way from Veracruz. Their leader, Hernán Cortés, was determinded to find it. As they marched across the country, moving ever closer towards it, the descriptions became more fantastic, more lavish. The Spanish covered hundreds of miles, through difficult, ever-changing terrain, lured on by the knowledge that this was the big one. If Tenochtitlán had just a fraction of the grandeur promised by reports, then it would be the jewel of their new empire. It would make them rich men. It would make Spain the envy of the world.



Then there it was, in the valley below. The largest, most glorious city in the Aztec Empire. It was home to 100,000 people, including their ultimate ruler, Emperor Moctezuma II. Tenochtitlán glittered, in ornate splendor, upon a massive island in the midst of an even larger lake. It connected to the mainland by three causeways. It held the Emperor's palace and several huge temples - with the main temple, bigger and more richly endowed than any seen before. Fertile gardens and canals intersected the city at strategic points. Tenochtitlán surpassed all stories told about it on the journey there. It was the greatest display of wealth, ingenuity and beauty in all the Aztec lands. It was more splendid than any European city of the time; smaller only than Constantinople. Hernán Cortés wanted it.

It would take the Spanish two years to take Tenochtitlán, despite forces swelled by the enemies of the Aztec, the Tlaxcalans. Aztec legend had told of the return of the god Quetzalcoátl. It was reported to Spain that, initially, Emperor Moctezuma II had assumed that Cortés was this deity and so had invited him into the city. They were lauded in luxury, feasting on food fit for kings. Moctezuma dressed him with flowers from his own garden, a great honour, though Cortés didn't understand the significance of the gesture. Cortés, along with his 3000 Spanish and Tlaxcalan entourage, were installed in the palace of Moctezuma's own father.

It didn't take long for Cortés to start making demands. At first these were humoured. Gigantic icons of Aztec gods were removed from the central temple; shrines to the Virgin Mary and St Christopher were set up in their place; a seemingly endless supply of gold was produced and handed over as gifts (or tribune, depending on who is telling the story). Cortés responded by seizing Moctezuma in his palace and holding him hostage.

Over the next two years, war raged throughout the city. Cortés left at one point to intercept a Spanish force coming to find and execute him for disobeying orders; but he successfully defeated them and persuaded the survivors to join his own cause. At times, the Aztec repelled the Spanish from Tenochtitlán. Moctezuma died in chains under Cortés's care. The fighting went on, sometimes house to house, street by street. It was never a foregone conclusion that the Spanish would win. On the night of 1 July 1520 alone, 600 Spanish and several thousand Tlaxcalans were killed, while trying to flee the city in the face of a massive Aztec force.

The war continued on the mainland, in pitched battles throughout the surrounding countryside. Without the Tlaxcalans swelling their ranks in their thousands, the Spanish would never have taken Tenochtitlán. When they did, it was as the result of a long, drawn out seige. For eight months, Tenochtitlán was surrounded. Its inhabitants could not cross the lake for supplies. Inside the city, food was rationed, then became scarce. They were bombarded with cannon fire. European diseases, like smallpox, ripped through the population, which had not been exposed to it before (a third of the population of the whole valley died in six months from smallpox). Until, 13 August 1521, the last Aztec Emperor, Cuauhtémoc, surrendered the city.

Cortés moved in immediately. He asked for gold, food and women with fair skin; then he expelled the rest of the Aztecs from the city. Cuauhtémoc was tortured and executed. The population were banned from ever returning to it nor even the surrounding countryside. Then Cortés set about rebuilding Tenochtitlán. It was to be even more ornate and glorious. Spanish buildings and icons to replace the Aztec. It was designed to inspire awe in all that saw it and to impress upon all visitors that the Spanish were the rulers here. Tenochtitlán rose again quickly with splendor on top of splendor. Bigger and better places of worship - Catholic churches and cathedrals now, instead of Aztec temples; more magnificent palaces; grand avenues; beautiful plazas.



There was only one technicality. The Spanish had always had trouble pronouncing Tenochtitlán, with its Aztec consonants strange to their tongue. They asked around and discovered a nickname for the city - the place where the God, Mēxihtli, lives, or, in the Aztec tongue, Mexico. This name they could say more easily and so the city was renamed - Mexico City. Eventually, as the importance of the city spread, it would lend its name to the whole country. Mexico, named after the city, not the other way around.

In the intervening centuries, Mexico City has continued to grow. It's no longer in the center of a lake, as expansion saw that drained and built over. It's been the scene of many of the most momentous events in Mexican history, becoming the nation's capital in 1824. Today, it is home to nearly 9 million people and covers an area stretching 1,485 square kilometres (573 square miles). It is still one of the largest cities in the world, beaten only by Tokyo, Delhi, São Paulo and Mumbai. Successive rulers have continued to pour the lion's share of their country's wealth into this single city. It is the showpiece and the jewel of Mexico.

As a result, it has been nicknamed, 'The City of Palaces', in response to some of its residences. Many of its public buildings or artwork boast the title, 'the biggest in the world'. It hosted the 1968 Olympic Games, with a grand stadium still in evidence. Thousands of tourists and business people visit the city every year. Its vibrancy, creativity and productivity remaining unparalleled throughout Mexico.

Cortés got his wish. The city that he took from the Aztecs is world-reknowned and glorious, though his name is rarely mentioned in the same breath. Yet the Aztecs live on too. Their canals remain and it is a pleasant trip, for locals and tourists alike, to sail along them in a punt. People still marvel at the grand Spanish buildings, but, as archaelogists uncover and restore it, the people admire the Aztec architecture too. Meanwhile the expansion of Mexico City goes on - several skyscrapers are due to be built in the next few years - and the city goes from strength to strength.

Drug Wars - Cancún is Safe for Tourists.

It was Monday morning and the blogosphere was buzzing. Bodies had been found near Cancún! Everyone should run away! Stay at home! Batten down the hatches! Hide under the bed! From the unsettling details of the original news sources, each blogger seemed to build upon the last person's blog, until a wave of hysteria had piled on heaps of fiction as fact. A casual reader would be forgiven for thinking that Cancún tourists were being collected up en masse, taken out to deserted places, then tortured slowly to death.

Er. No.

Let's try and gain some perspective here. Yes, there are drug wars in Mexico. However, Mexico is a very big place and it is important to note where these drugs wars are occurring. They are on the main route between Colombia and the USA. Colombia, where 90% of the world's cocaine is produced; and the USA, which is the main market for the finished product. For this, Mexico is best described as a thoroughfare, a highway, the delivery route. Other types of drugs might be home-grown/produced, but they are mostly all heading in the same direction - up into America. It is in the American border states where trouble flares. The American Government's current travel warning names three of them: Chihuahua, Coahuila and Durango. Cancún is in Quintana Roo.



Because maps don't really give you the scale of distance, let me clarify. Cancún is 2145 kilometers (1333 miles) away from Chihuahua.

Cancún is miles away from the flashpoints of violence.

You might point to the port in Cancún, then move upwards to highlight its marine proximity to the American state of Florida. This is very true, but also extremely problematic. If you read the previous blogs on the pirates of the Caribbean, you will have noted that they died out because the Caribbean Sea became too well policed for piracy to continue. This is still the case. There is a naval base on Isla Mujeres for a start. Plus Cancún relies upon tourism for its economy. Tourists only come if they feel safe. Therefore Cancún is one of the most heavily patrolled cities in Mexico. No city is totally without crime, but the crime rate in Cancún is very low. If you were a drug baron, would you prefer to move unmolested through the jungles and outbacks of central Mexico or run the gauntlet of police, armed forces and customs officers in Cancún?

Cancún is extremely well policed; its economy relies upon keeping tourists safe.

Of course, the sceptics will still be pointing towards those bodies in a cave, which most definitely did occur in Cancún. Yes, it did. The bodies have not yet been identified, but they are unlikely to be tourists. The big clue is in the fact that no tourists have been reported missing. Without an official word on the subject, any attempt to identity them or their murderer(s) is pure speculation. However, it is known that the victims were all Mexicans, which makes it unlikely that they were tourists. Even the lurid details are mostly exaggerated rumour, based on early reports getting it slightly wrong. The victims did not have their hearts cut out. They were stabbed repeatedly in the heart, hence their demise.

Now let us enter the world of speculation: The precedent of previous similiar situations (generally hundreds of miles away) leads us to assume that the six victims were members of a drug cartel themselves. That is how it tends to work. Gang-warfare. Horrific and stomach-turning, but it's gang against gang. It's point scoring. It's a power struggle. It's one cartel saying to another cartel, this is my territory and my livelihood, so go away. Now why on Earth would that point be made by targeting random tourists, rather than, say, one cartel's best delivery men and women? If anything, that's like killing off potential customers!

Cancún is completely safe, unless you're a member of a drug cartel. In which case, you already know the risks.

So why is the American government warning people to stay away from Cancún? Why is the media full of dark portents and dire speculation for the future? And why is there a wave of shrieking bloggers flailing in panicked print and telling us to flee?

To address the first point, Americans aren't being officially warned against Cancún.

Please read the advice for yourselves: US Department of State Travel Warning: Mexico. Here are the relevant bits for the subject of this blog:

Some recent confrontations between Mexican authorities and drug cartel members have resembled small-unit combat, with cartels employing automatic weapons and grenades. Large firefights have taken place in towns and cities across Mexico, but occur mostly in northern Mexico, including Ciudad Juarez, Tijuana, Chihuahua City, Nogales, Matamoros, Reynosa and Monterrey. During some of these incidents, U.S. citizens have been trapped and temporarily prevented from leaving the area. The U.S. Mission in Mexico currently restricts its U.S. government employees’ travel within the state of Durango, the northwest quadrant of the state of Chihuahua and an area southeast of Ciudad Juarez, and all parts of the state of Coahuila south of Mexican Highways 25 and 22 and the Alamos River. This restriction was implemented in light of a recent increase in assaults, murders, and kidnappings in those three states....

... U.S. citizen visitors are encouraged to stay in the well-known tourist areas.

In other words, the warning isn't for the whole country. It's for the border areas, right up in the north of the country. You are far closer to it in California, Arizona, New Mexico or Texas, then you are in Cancún. But if you are travelling, then keep to tourist areas. The message here is clear: the tourist areas are safer.

The first thing that any government does, when trouble strikes, is to remove their personnel from the area. The US Consul is still fully staffed in Plaza Caracol, Cancún. (Surely that is the best posting in the world? Imagine the scene: you've just been made a US ambassador and you're waiting to find out there. Will be it a warzone? Will it be somewhere cold or dull? No, it's Cancún. Hurrah!)

The papers are full of nay-sayers, because that sells newspapers. Have a read of Greenslade's Blog, The Good News About Bad News - It Sells for more about that. Though the crux of it lies here:

... peoples' interest in news is much more intense when there is a perceived threat to their way of life... Fear and poverty stimulate greater interest in news... Note how fear in developed countries, created in recent times by terrorism, also sells many thousands more newspapers.

In short, a headline screaming, 'Lots of Fun, Partying and Alcohol Happened in Cancún', is hardly going to be read, let alone reproduced across the blogosphere; unlike 'People Tortured to Death and Dumped in Cancún'.

As for blogs, many are reactive. This blog is reactive. It's been written as a reaction to the list of other blogs out there telling me that Cancún is now a hotbed of dangerous gang-warfare, with people dragged off the streets and horrificially murdered. *looks out of the window* Really? Because right now it's looking as chilled out as ever. Beautiful people lounging on white sands in front of a turquoise sea. Flip-flops clop-clopping as people drift along the boulevard without a care in the world. Sun rising in a cloudless sky. But what do we know? We only live here.



Though you could have a look through the testimonials of other people who live and work here: Cancun is Safe! That's a website founded by a native Cancunese called Camilo, who became so tired of the smear stories about our amazing city, that he fought back with reality. Please avoid his website if you only like to read bad news.

Travel in Cancún - Taxi!

One of the quickest, easiest, simpliest and safest ways to travel around the Hotel Zone is via taxi. The drivers know all of the main attractions around Cancún and so you may even get an impromptu commentary on the journey. You will certainly have a captive local, who is usually happy to share tips and stories.

There are universally agreed taxi fares in Cancún. Many of the hotels display them, on a board outside their doors. It is worth reading these boards and having a mental check-list of what you should be paying. Some taxi drivers aren't above overcharging, if (s)he thinks that you don't know the going rate. Ask the taxi driver the price of the fare before you get in and, though not mandatory, remember to tip him/her afterwards, if you received a good service. If you're travelling within Cancún, then a reasonable tip is 10-20 pesos ($1 USD). If you're travelling to or from the airport or one of the attractions within the city, then tip a little more. Obviously the amount you choose will depend upon the quality of the service. Don't feel beholden to tip, if you feel that the service was bad.

Incidentally, a taxi driver usually won't give you any change, so try to pay the exact amount. They do actually carry change though, so if you wish to receive some, please do press the point.

Taxis may line up at ranks, which are usually signposted with a frontal view of a taxi, in white, against a blue background. Alternatively, they can be flagged down with an upraised arm in the street.

Note that the taxi might not be exclusively your own. If there is room and another person flagging down the vehicle, then the driver will pull over and take them too. For the same reason, don't be surprised if you climb into a taxi to find someone else already sitting there; and don't feel that you can't signal for a taxi, if it is already carrying a fare. This might extend your journey slightly, if the other passenger is dropped off first. If you can't live with this, then you would be better off booking private ground transportation (see links at the bottom).

It is possible to hire a taxi for the day or part of it. For example, if you wished to travel to Chichén Itzá and stay there for 3 hours, then return to Cancún, then this could be worked out with the taxi driver. (S)he will wait at the site, so you are hiring the taxi for the entire duration. This can sometimes be cheaper and less hassle than renting a hire car; but allows you the freedom to devise your own schedule. Naturally, if you intend to do this, then you must negotiate with the taxi driver before you set off, so that there are no misunderstandings regarding costs and time. For long journeys, it is permissable to haggle the price. For short journeys, don't.

If you do not speak Spanish, then write down the address of your destination and show this to the driver. That avoids you being taken to somewhere else, because the driver misinterpreted your attempts at Spanish pronunication. However, many drivers speak perfect English and all of them will be used to driving tourists around.

Private Shuttle/Ground Transportation



The advantage of a private shuttle is that there will only be your party on it. There will be no stops between airport and hotel, unless you request one, and so the whole journey will be quick and efficient. It can save around an hour of time because of this. Most private shuttles are also air-conditioned, which is a bonus in the Cancún heat.

There will be some shuttles available for hire at the airport, but it's always a good idea to book one in advance. Many of those offering it at the airport will be timeshare representatives in disguise. You do not need to pay when you make the reservation, as that will be sorted out when the transfer takes place. However, do ask how you will recognise your driver. Most will stand at the airport entrance with your name on a card, but it is better to check in advance.

Shuttles cost between $60-$65 for a private passenger van carrying 4-7 people. This is for a roundtrip, so you will have the same van taking you back again at the end of your holiday. Some companies will ask for a portion of that during the first journey, then the remainder after you've been dropped off on the return leg. Some companies will want the entire fare paid up front. It is best to ask which is expected as you book.

Most drivers are happy to stop off en route, for example at a liquor store, if you ask them to. There will be no extra charge for this.
However, it is polite to tip your driver, particularly if they've helped with your luggage, been helpful with local information or detoured to a store for you. 20-40 pesos ($1-2 USD) is the standard rate.

Endless Tours Ground Transportation

Travel in Cancún - Fun on the Bus

The cheapest and most convenient way of travelling throughout the Hotel Zone is by taking a bus. It can also be a lot of fun. Cancún public buses are known for impromptu sing-songs, especially if someone brings a guitar along. They are also the quickest means of travel for musicians and DJs, on their way to entertain the crowds, and many seem to start early. Film sharing sites, like You Tube, are filled with shaky tourist footage of vibrant Cancún bus journeys. Happy, smiley faces abound; voices raised in song; guitars and makeshift instruments leading the way; all on a public bus.

Here's just one example, taken at night, presumably en route to or from one of the nightclubs:



The buses on the ocean side of the boulevard are heading towards downtown; those on the lagoon side are heading towards the airport. Both of them will make regular stops along the way. The rate is $6 pesos (60 US cents).

The Hoteles R1 buses go in a huge circle through the hotel zone, along Avenue Tulum and back to the bus station (crucedo). Therefore, buses run up and down Boulevard Kukalcan every few minutes. The R2 and R15 buses will go downtown, including a stop near to the local Wal-Mart.

They can only stop at the designated bus stops (parada). These are signposted along the boulevard as a blue square with a white picture of a bus on it. However, they won't necessarily stop unless you ask them to. If waiting at the stop, then stick out your hand. If sitting on the bus, then call out 'stop' or pull on the cord. Again, they can only stop at the designated bus stops.

During the day, these buses can be very crowded, so you may have to stand up. During the night, when most passengers are intoxicated and in high spirits, they can seem like a mobile party.

Major Routes

R1 - Take this route to go downtown, or to Puerto Juarez, Wal-Mart, Plaza 2000, Mercado 23 and the Cancún bus station.

R2 - Goes to Wal-Mart & Mercado 28.

Minor Routes

R15 - Goes to Wal-Mart & Mercado 28.

R27 - Goes along Tulum Ave to Plaza Las Americas where you catch the collectivo to Playa del Carmen and Tulum.

There is an interactive map of the bus stops along the Hotel Zone here.

For those wishing to go further afield, then you will need to go to the bus station (crucedo) and purchase tickets. These will reserve your seat. There's no real difference between first and second class buses other than the fact that the former will reserve seats. There are also luxury buses available to go to places like Merida or even Mexico City. The longest single journey you can make on a bus is to Mexico City and takes 26 hours.

Ticket Bus has a list of all of the prices for long-distance trips via bus.

Travel in Cancún - Walking

The pace of Cancún is slow. Anyone attempting to rush around, particularly during siesta (2pm - 5pm), might as well have a neon light over their head flashing out the legend, 'tourist'. So when walking, booking a taxi or tour and using public transport, please bear in mind that it might take longer than anticipated. Just set your internal clock to 'vacation' and it won't be a suprise or a hassle.

The Hotel Zone is basically one long, long street, so it's incredibly difficult to get lost there. This street, Avenida Kukulcan (Boulevard Kukulcan), is divided into equal sections every kilometer (around half a mile) with signposts telling you where you are. Just look to the center of the boulevard. Between the two streams of traffic are the stone km signs. On a blue background, with white writing, they will tell you which km you are entering. There are 25 km zones in all, starting from one in the north and ending at 25 in the south. As you know which km your hotel is in, then it's basically a straight line along the boulevard back to it, using the markers to show you whether you're heading towards or away from it.

This blog entry kicks off a trilogy explaining the various ways of getting out and about around Cancún. We'll start with the most obvious one: walking!

Walking through the Hotel Zone is very easy. There are sidewalks lining each side of the boulevard. It is therefore a great way to explore, wandering from shop to shop, via the beach, or into an attraction, pausing for lunch or stopping to admire the view over the lagoon. This is invariably done at a very slow pace; vacation speed aside, it's difficult to jog in that heat.

Most people will be wearing flip-flops or sandals. In fact, for many tourists, this is the only footwear they will bring to Cancún. If you are planning to go into some of the more select restaurants or a night-club with a dress code, then you will need to change into appropriate footwear. Flip-flops may see you refused entry. The vast majority of establishments though will welcome you in casual dress, even in beachwear. If you are venturing further, particularly into the jungle or to one of the Mayan ruins, then tennis shoes/sneakers are much better. The combination of mosquito bites, potential sunburn and extensive walking there will make you glad that you covered up your feet.

Two warnings when walking in Cancún:

* Break in your footwear first. It's very tempting to splash out on some brand new flip-flops for your Cancún holiday, then spend the first day with them rubbing holes into your feet. Getting band-aids to stick under flip-flop thongs, especially when you are sweating in the heat, is very difficult.

* Watch out for the sun. It is very hot in Cancún and people can get sunburn even in the shade. Those who never have to use sunscreen often have to lather themselves in it, while in Cancún. One of the most common areas to be burnt is on the soles of the feet, because tourists cover every inch of the rest of their body, then sunbathe on their front. Their forgotten, exposed soles are pointing towards the intense sun and next thing you know they can't walk for a week. Rule of thumb: If your feet are uncovered under the sun, then use sunscreen on them.

If you have arrived without appropriate footwear, then never fear. There are no end of stores selling everything from cheap flip-flops through to expensive designer dancing shoes. It's not recommended that you go bare-foot on the sidewalk. You'd end up burning yourself on the slabs.

Surviving a Hurricane in Mexico

Yesterday we talked about the hurricane season and what that can mean for Mexico. Though it's rare for a hurricane to have landfall in Mexico (only 4 times in Cancún for example), it can happen. We are in 'The Season' now, but the most active months are August, September and October. The first tip to surviving a hurricane is to be aware that you're in 'The Season' and that you now know.

There have been 4 major hurricanes in Cancún during the past 42 years. So for 15,336 days in that time, there was no hurricane. For four days, there was. That gives you odds of approximately 4000 to 1 of encountering a hurricane on your vacation. And that's historically only in September and October. The odds fall during June, July, August and November. They dwindle to nothing for the rest of the year. Nevertheless, for the purposes of this blog, let's assume that you were extremely unlucky and there is one on the way, while you are there.

If you do nothing else, nor remember nothing else, then the single most important tip is this: follow the lead of the locals. These are people who have seen it all before. They may well have lived through Wilma at least. Most of the hotels have been built to withstand hurricanes. The staff have been trained in emergency procedures, designed to protect themselves and their guests during a hurricane. The federal, state and municipal authorities all have policies in place to cover all eventualities. There are even state-funded hurricane refuges in Cancún. In short, all of the people there know what they are doing and most of them have plans that include ensuring your safety too. It's in your interest to do what you're told.

However, you could be prepared too. If you are heading to Cancún during The Season, then you could do these things:

1, Register with your country's embassy/consulate. Let them know that you're here!

2, Make enquiries with officialdom. Will your airline help if you're stranded or are required to be evacuated home early? Will your hotel refund pre-paid rooms, if the official order comes to evacuate? Does your travel insurance cover hurricanes? Is there advice from your tour operator about procedures during/after a hurricane? Will your tour operator look after you in the event of an evacuation?



3, Prepare a grab bag. The idea of this is that the hurricane warning comes and you are given notice to evacuate. You dash into your hotel room, grab it and run to safety. In reality, this bag is probably to survive an overnight stay in a refuge or snuggled in a reinforced inner hotel room. However, pack like you're in dodgier surroundings for longer.

Items you might wish to include are:

* Water - at least one gallon daily per person for 3-7 days
* Water purification tablets
* Food - non-perishable food and snacks for 3-7 days. Tinned food is good, but remember the tin opener (non-electric is best, in case the batteries run out). Also think about plates and cutlery, plus, if you need to cook it, a camping stove with fuel.
* Drugs/medication - Anything that you need to generally stay alive, hurricane or not
* First Aid Kit
* Clothing - it's probably best to think sturdy shoes, as you may be walking over rubble as you leave
* Blankets and pillows
* Torch/Torch candle - let there be light! But if your torch needs batteries, don't forget a spare set, or else remember the matches/lighter for the torch candle
* Bin-bags/garbage bags - you would be amazed at how versatile and useful these waterproof sacks are. They can hold all of your stuff; they can be makeshift raincoats; they can cover you while you get changed; they can be makeshift sleeping bags (if you're small or curl up really tightly); they can be tacked up for partitions/privacy or used as emergency toilets; they could even be made into very flimsy, noisy tents; use your imagination! Oh! And they're good for holding the trash as well
* Toiletries/hygiene wipes/moisture wipes - you can't be guaranteed access to a five star restroom, while you're hiding out from the storm. Baby wipes can be used for a wash; you might want to include something like DentaBurst or Oral B Brush Ups to clean your teeth
* Radio - it is better to buy a wind up radio, which doesn't need batteries. It's also best to get one with a weather band; though, to be fair, if you're using it whilst hiding from a hurricane, you could probably guess the weather report yourself. However, it will keep you informed on what's going on in the real world and where you need to go next. For example, after Wilma, the US Embassy put out special information for their nationals, which was to head for Mérida and fly to the States from there
* Important documents - passport, travel documents, driving license etc. Put these into a waterproof, resealable bag or container. You really don't want to get these wet
* Telephones - fully charged with a spare battery. Ensure that it works internationally, particularly inside Mexico. Also a list of telephone numbers on paper. If your telephone does die on you, you still have your contact numbers
* Cash/Credit Cards - in a category 5 hurricane, you might emerge to discover that there's no ATM out there anymore, and those that structurally remain might not work due to the lack of electricity. This is emergency money in case there is none accessible, once you leave the shelter
* Keys - To get back into your hotel room/house/car/business etc
* Special items - you know your party better than me. Do you need diapers/nappies for the baby? Will someone panic without their lucky stone? Does granny only find religion at times like this and therefore needs her rosary beads?
* Books/toys/games - It might be exciting at the refuge at first, but after an hour or two, you'll be looking for entertainment
* Pet care items - It's unlikely that you will have your pet with you on vacation, but if you have, remember to pack for him/her too

4, Create a plan for you and your party/family. Research the hazards and take the worse case scenario. What if all 'phone lines are down, but you and individuals in your party/family have become separated? Where should you meet back up? When should you meet back up? If you have been given the order to evacuate, then what should each person grab on the way out? (V gets the children; W gets the blankets; Y gets the grab bag; X gets the passports and travel documents; Z gets the rum - all important things covered and off you go.)

5, Work out where to go. If you are going to rely upon the offical evacuation procedures, then check in advance where you should congregate when the warning goes up. This might not be your own hotel. All Cancún hotels are built to withstand hurricanes, but not necessarily a category 5. Find out, in advance, where you should be heading instead by asking in your hotel lobby or with your tour operator. In 2008, the hotel's assigned shelters were listed here.

If you would prefer to make your own evacuation plans, then make reservations in advance and don't delay. The second you feel you should evacuate, then go. Any delay will just put you in a traffic jam full of the other thousands of people evacuating. Please note that all Cancún official plans include ensuring the safety of the tourists. These plans haven't failed in the past, so they are to be trusted.

6, Monitor the weather. You could invest in a radio with a weather band, which can carry this to the beach or everywhere else. Check it regularly, even when glorious sunshine is beaming down upon you. Then you'll know if a hurricane is coming. Alternatively, you could check the hurricane watch websites.

National Hurricane Center
Caribbean Hurricane Network

5, Stop worrying about hurricanes and enjoy your holiday. You're as prepared as you're going to be. There's only a 1 in 4000 chance of a hurricane occurring and, if it does, you will most likely see it out safe and sound.

If a hurricane did hit Cancún, then you would probably be asked to remain in your hotel for a category 1-3. By the next day, you'd definitely be chilling out on vacation again, with a great story to tell back home. The above preparation is really for categories 4-5, another Wilma. In that case, just follow the instructions given by your hotel.

For more local links and advice, please check out the TripAdvisor page: Cancún: Traveling During Hurricane Season. For more real life stories about Cancún hurricanes, try Hurricane Cancún, the home of a collective of bloggers telling their experiences as they occurred.

Oh No! It's the Hurricane Season!

June 1st marked the beginning of the hurricane season through the Caribbean, Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic. This could affect all of the countries with shores on these oceans, including Mexico and the USA. 'The Season' will continue until November. Historically, August, September and October are the months most likely to see a hurricane along these shores.

Time to panic? Not really. Time to learn about hurricanes and the unlikelihood of one occuring while you are in Mexico.

What is a Hurricane?

Short answer: An intense amount of rotating wind.

Long answer: Hurricanes form over the ocean. It takes very specific conditions for this to happen. First the water in the ocean has to be warm enough, roughly around 27°C (80°F). Above this, the wind must be blowing constantly, in the same direction, lifting the heat from the ocean and forcing it upwards on air currents. This hot air rising collides with cooler air above and creates clouds. These have the potential to develop into a tropical storm.

Above the storm clouds, the cooler winds continue to flow outwards. This makes a funnel through which even more heated air is sucked up. (Imagine sucking soda up through a straw, it's the same principle, except this is pulling only air, not water.) More heated air clashes with more cooler air and the stormclouds get bigger and heavier.

If the system even gets this far, then this is where the vast majority of them end. There is a tropical storm. Everyone gets wet, unless they stayed inside. In which case, they're currently snug and dry, sipping their drinks, whilst talking about the weather.

However, on rare occasions, there is an extra element. These are light winds outside the 'funnel', which gently touch against it and start it moving. This is the Coriolis Force in action. If the winds were too heavy, then they'd be deflected; but light winds can just carry on by. The more they come, the more the movement, until it reaches a critical state of kinetic energy and the whole 'funnel' starts spinning. Now we have a hurricane.

Why is this so dangerous?

For those out at sea, it's dangerous because it's creating very rough conditions to be sailing in. Ocean currents will unexpectedly change and become very strong. Plus the base of the 'funnel' has sucked up a mound of ocean. It's like a travelling hill of water. It will also appear with little warning, creating short, steep waves, which are perilous to sail over. Maritime safety, in any country, recommends not sailing in or around a hurricane.

Where hurricanes make the news is when they make landfall. By now, the winds are spinning at 121-322 km/h (75-200m/h) and they still have that mound of water in their core. As the hurricane reaches the shore, the water is released, flooding coastal areas. The spiralling wind is strong enough to rip up buildings, toss cars like small toys and unroot forests. It will be moving fast.

It should be noted that at the center of the hurricane, there is an 'eye'. This is basically the 'funnel' and it's calm. The sun will be shining and the winds only very light. If you are in the eye of the hurricane, then what you have just experienced is going to happen again, as you come out of it. This could take a while. Hurricanes can grow up to 966km (600 miles) across.

Am I likely to encounter a hurricane in Cancún?

Very probably not, but there are no promises here during 'The Season'. There have only been four hurricanes, historically, which have touched Cancún:

Hurricane Inez - October 7th, 1966, landed in Cancún, as a category 4. It wasn't the great tourist destination that it is now, so was sparsely populated. 125mph winds brushed through from the north.

Hurricane Gilbert - September 14th, 1988, landed in Cozumel, as a category 5. It is worth noting that many of the residents of surrounding towns and villages were evacuated to Cancún as the hurricane approached. This is because Cancún had the sturdiest structures and was better placed, even then, to protect people. American author, Jules Siegel, was one of those affected. You can read his account on his website.

Hurricane Roxanne - October 9th, 1995, landed in Tulúm, as a category 3. In Cancún, 12,000 tourists and 3,900 residents were offered evacuation to downtown Cancún, which are on higher ground, but many chose to remain and see it out in the Hotel Zone. Those who did take up the offer were returned the next day to complete their vacation.

Hurricane Wilma - October 21st, 2005, landed in Cozumel, as a category 5. The authorities knew it was on the way, so, on October 19th, the tourists in Cancún were offered the choice between returning to their place of origin, evacuation further inland or a place in the Cancún hurricane shelters. The impact on the area was huge, but the official machine kicked into place. With a lot of structural damage in Cancún, most people couldn't just carry on with their vacations. The emphasis was on flying people home, so that the local people could get on with the business of rebuilding their city. Only one person died in Cancún itself, as a window was blown out. For those who lived through Hurricane Wilma in Cancún, you may be interested in Sue and John Spina's website: HurricaneWilmaCancun.com.



There have been impacts from other hurricanes, but only in excessive winds from those hitting further afield. The authorities are very vigilant and the majority of hotels in the Hotel Zone have been built to withstand hurricanes.

Now that you have been thoroughly frightened by this, tomorrow's blog will explain what to do in the event of a hurricane during your Mexican vacation. However, it is very unlikely that you will ever need it.

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The Magical Old Baja

The Old Baja... a taste of old Baja... it's just like Old Baja...

It's a phrase that you hear often. It's not even just the elderly senors and senoras sitting back with misty-eyed nostalgia. People in their 30s will sigh over their tequilas at the mention of 'old Baja'. The internet is full of it. Newcomers and tourists would be forgiven for thinking that 'old Baja' is some mystical Otherworld. Perhaps a legendary Brigadoon, that only appears once every 100 years for just one night, to carry off heroes into the sunset.

So what is it?

It's a region of Mexico that you can visit right now. It's the Baja Peninsula of Las Californias. Back in 1510, García Ordóñez de Montalvo published his 'Las Sergas de Esplandián', which talked of an island to the west of the Indies. This island was entirely populated by women, in the manner of Amazons, and was ruled over by Queen Califia. The island was named California after her. The legend was so well known that when the Spanish Conquistador, Hernán Cortés, travelled along the Pacific coast of Mexico and the USA, he was convinced that he had found the place. He then worked out that the area wasn't an island. It was a peninsula. Nevertheless, he named it California.

Today, there are three Californias, known collectively as Las Californias. From the top, they are California, in the USA; then, crossing into Mexico, Baja California and Baja California Sur. 'Baja' means 'lower' and 'sur' means 'south'. So it's California, Lower California and Southern Lower California. When people refer to the Baja, they are talking about the Mexican peninsula.

But that's the modern Baja. The 'old Baja' was in exactly the same place, but felt different. Even 20 years ago, few people had electricity, especially in Baja California Sur. Towns like Cabo San Lucas were a fraction of the size that they are today. The main visitors were sailors, stopping for food and fuel. They might have dined at the single restaurant or paused for a drink at the only bar in town.

In 1949, the American director, Silas Johnson, travelled from the north to the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. He recorded what he saw and created this short film, showing precisely what 'old Baja' was.



The film is only 60 years old, so many of those children would only be in their 70s now. Baja did not change overnight. In fact, there are still some areas where 'old Baja' is alive and well in everyday life. For many though, the lure of tourism grew too great and the last ten years has seen a lot of expansion. Much of this has happened during the past couple of decades, so even those in their 30s might remember Johnson's Baja. Those in their 20s or even their teens will recall a Baja slowly transforming into the vacation mecca that it's becoming now.

We can use Google Streetview to take a tour of Cabo San Lucas today. You might notice a few changes since the end of Johnson's 1949 film and the scenes in 2010.


View Larger Map

Click on the map and use your keyboard's arrow keys to take a virtual tour through the streets.

The Baja Peninsula is still tranquil. There are still old Spanish colonial towns and small fishing villages. There's still a lot of the old Baja in evidence, but it is disappearing fast. If you wish to experience it close to how it used to be, it might be worth going soon. Wait just ten or twenty years and the old Baja could well have vanished under the prosperous new Baja. And good luck to them!

Is It Legal?

Many people come to Mexico for a good time. They want the beaches, parties, free flowing alcohol and sun. It might never occur to them that entering another country means being subject to different laws, which may not be anything like their counterparts back home. If you commit a crime in Mexico, then you will be subject to Mexican law.

It's worth knowing what that law is then! We've compiled the most commonly queried legalities.

Alcohol

The age to legally drink alcohol in Mexico is eighteen.

Driving

You need to be 18 in order to drive in Mexico, however most rental agencies require the driver to be 21 years old.

Drugs

If you are carrying, or intend to buy, prescription drugs, then it is worth checking that they are also legal in Mexico. The Federal Commission for the Protection against Sanitary Risk (COFEPRIS) can help there. Their website, in English, is here. Each country differs on what is or isn't allowed, so even if your doctor back home gave them to you, they might be illegal over the border. It is also illegal to procure drugs with a prescription written by a doctor outside Mexico. You will need go see a doctor in Mexico first, then get him/her to prescribe your medication.

Some drugs, which may be illegal in your own country, are legal in small amounts in Mexico. These are quantities judged to be for personal use. They include: 5g marijuana, half a gram of cocaine, 50mg of heroin, 40mg of methamphetamine or 0.015mg of LSD. Anything over that is not legal.

Possession or use of any drugs deemed illegal in Mexico can carry a prison sentence of up to 25 years.

Firearms

Anyone wishing to take firearms, or ammunition, into Mexico can do so. However, they need a permit, secured prior to entry. It's not enough to declare the firearm at the border. These are strictly controlled and the penalties high.

Sex

The age of consent in Mexico is a little more complex than in neighbouring countries. The Federal Law, which exists as the minimum throughout the country, states that the age of consent is 12 years old (with restrictions). However, there is also state law, which changes depending upon which Mexican state you are in at the time. This places the minimum age at 12 (or puberty) through to 15. For example, in Quintana Roo, where millions of vacationers visit Cancun, the age of consent is 12.

However, before everyone goes cradle-snatching, please look again at that 'with restrictions' part. All of this very much relies upon the youngster being able to consent, with no complaints from him/her nor from his/her family. This includes consent given through seduction or deceit. In short, if the act has taken place, then either the child or their family complains, then the other party may find themselves with a lengthy prison term.

Moreover, some countries, like the USA, have laws on their own statute books governing sexual relations with minors in another country. In other words, it is legally possible for an American to travel to Mexico, engage with acts with a twelve year old; leave with no complaints nor arrest under Mexican law; then return home to find themselves on trial in their own country for 'sexual tourism' paedophilia.

It's probably much safer to move onto the age of consent (without restrictions). Again this varies from state to state, ranging from 16 to 18. In Quintana Roo, it is 18. The 'without restrictions' means that the family have no say in the matter and, unless someone has actually been raped, then there are no legal penalties.

Please note that the above applies equally to heterosexual and homosexual intercourse. It's all equal.