Showing posts with label Isla Mujeres. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Isla Mujeres. Show all posts

July 13, 2011

Religious Tourism in... Cancún?

Cancún has been chosen by the Vatican as the location for an important gathering next year. From April 23rd to 27th, 2012, millions of ordained Catholic priests and lay people will descend upon the city from all over the world. The focus of the conference is be the pastoral care of tourists; and it will draw religious leaders from international resorts.

Cancún


The VII World Congress on the Pastoral Care of Tourism is being organized by the Holy See. Now that the location has been decided, the Vatican have enlisted the assistance of the Mexican Episcopal Conference and the Prelature of Quintana Roo-Chetumal. The agenda is two-fold: 'religious tourism' and the spiritual needs of people temporarily away from their own parish.

'Religious tourism' is not a new concept. As long as one place has been set aside as holy, there have been pilgrims going to it. However, the last century has seen people moving in ever greater numbers away from their homes for a vacation. Their destinations are often motivated by the wish to visit a religious center or shrine; not always related to their own spiritual leanings. (Yesterday's mention of the Ix Chel Temple, in Punta Sur, attracts far more nominally Christian tourists, than young Maya women hoping to become pregnant.)

Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe


In the Catholic world, it would be forgiven for assuming that the number one draw is Vatican City, Lourdes (France) or Our Lady of Fatima (Portugal). It's not. It's the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, in Mexico City. While it is heavily visited by international tourists (of all denominations), the massive lead it holds over the other sites is due to home-grown Catholics. Mexico is a huge, staunchly Catholic country; whose citizens find it easier and cheaper to visit a holy site which isn't on the other side of the world.

Mexico's ambassador to Vatican City, Hector Frederick Ling Altamirano, confirmed his country's willingness to host the event. The Pontifical Council for the Pastoral Care of Migrants and Travelers was assured of the 'large sympathy' of the Mexican government, along with a promise of support.

"The realization of this event in Cancún confirms the excellent state of bilateral relations between Mexico and the Holy See, also confirming the convergence of views on the issue of tourism and its important human dimension."

So Catholics, consider this a head's up. If you were planning on having it large in Cancún that week, you could find yourself doing so under the guidance of thousands of priests. Finding someone to hear your Confession is not going to be a problem, which, given that this is Cancún, is probably a huge bonus!

July 12, 2011

Garrafón Natural Reef Park, Isla Mujeres

There are many places in Mexico where people can relax in a hammock within a sublime setting; there are just as many locations for adrenaline kicking adventure. One of the best is an attraction that combines both ends of the spectrum: Garrafón Natural Reef Park.



This is a coastal area of outstanding beauty, on the southern part of Isla Mujeres. Soaring cliffs allow breath-taking views over the Caribbean Sea and the land around it. The scenery alone is worth the trip, especially on the gentle walk around to the most easternly tip of Mexico and the highest point in Yucatan, Punta Sur.

The remains of a temple dedicated to the Maya mother goddess, Ix Chel, is here, high upon the cliff-top. Historically, female pilgrims would come to obtain the blessing of the priestesses, hence the name of the whole island - Isla Mujeres (Isle of Women).



Down below is the famous Sculpture Garden. In 2001, the Sebastian Foundation brought together 23 artists, from home and abroad, to each create a monument to the Maya spirit. The resulting figurines fill the area with vibrant color. There is also part of 'The Silent Evolution', under the waves, just off this bit of coastline.

For those interested in knowing all that Punta Sur has to offer, there are guided tours available from the entrance to Garrafón Natural Reef Park. If you are planning to walk up there, with a guide or without, it's worth taking a few coins with you. The restaurant at the top isn't part of the main park, so food and drink isn't included in your entrance fee.

However, that ticket in does provide you with a large range of other goodies! Lunch and drinks are included, which will give you the energy for a go on the zip-line. It's not the longest in Mexico, but it does take you zooming out into the ocean.



Or perhaps you would prefer snorkelling? As well as the aforementioned artifical reef, there is the actual coral reef, with all of its tropical marine life to see. There's also bungee jumping, kayaking and/or a bicycle tour of the whole island.

For those for whom this sounds too much like activity in the Mexican heat, then there are plenty of white silk hammocks, strung between two palm trees, and loungers to settle into. The bar will keep you supplied cocktails to sip. There is also the infinity swimming pool for a refreshing dip. It comes complete with waterfall and panoramic views of Cancún Bay.

July 5, 2011

Filmed in Mexico

Filming 'Ride' in Mexico City


Mexico has always been a great country in which to shoot films. Not only has it got its own thriving movie industry, but it is very close to Hollywood. A short drive, or an even shorter plane journey, can see a whole cast and crew coming south of the border. They are all taking advantage of the megadiverse scenery and the wide open spaces. Everything from deserts to rainforests to oceans to subterranean worlds to sprawling urban locations can be found here. Of course, it helps enormously that average production costs are up to 30% lower than in the USA, Canada and Europe.

According to The Internet Movie Database, some 16,218 movies have been filmed in Mexico. This has been going on since the very dawn of Hollywood. Some of the scenes are rather surprising. For example, who guessed that the climatic sinking scenes, in 'Titanic', were filmed in Rosarito; or that the same location doubled as Pearl Harbour? We couldn't possibly cover all of the movies here. However, here is a taste of what Mexico's scenery helped bring to the silver screen. Please do comment with any of your favorites that we missed.

Acapulco, Mexico:

'Fun in Acapulco' (1963):
Elvis Presley did go to Acapulo to film this.



'Licence to Kill' (1989): Sanchez's home is actually the real life Villa Arabesque, on the di Portanova Estate, near Las Brisas in Acapulco.

'Limitless' (2011): The cliff dive happened here.

Cancún:

'The Real Cancún' (2003): Filmed in and around the real Cancún.

Catemaco, Veracruz:

'Apocalypto' (2006): The rainforest scenes were filmed here.

Chichén Itzá:

'Against All Odds' (1984):
This is where Coach Sully catches up with Brogan and Wyler. The Sacred Cenote, which plays a prominent role in the film, is located at Chichén Itzá.

Cozumel:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Brogan found Wyler.

Isla de Mujeres:

'Against All Odds' (1984): The Cozumel scenes were actually shot on Isla de Mujeres.

'Licence to Kill' (1989): This is where James Bond and Felix Leiter find Sanchez. It's also where the underwater scenes were filmed.



Mexicali, Baja California:

'The Game' (1997): Van Orton is left here by gamesters.

Mexico City:

Home of Estudios Churubusco (Churubusco Studios), where films have been made since 1945. Amongst those known internationally are: The Fugitive (1946), Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1968), Amityville II: The Possession (1982), Rambo: First Blood Pt II (1984), Licence to Kill ( 1988), The Hunt for Red October (1989), Total Recall (1990), Romeo and Juliet (1996), The Mask of Zorro (1998) and 'Resident Evil: Extinction' (2006), plus many more besides.

'Licence to Kill' (1989): Much of Isthmus City is really Mexico City. The ornate post office is real. It's Mexico's City main post office (Oficina Central de Correos, Calle Tacuba 1 y Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas). The 'El Presidente', where James Bond and Pam Bouvier spend the night, is really Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, though the exterior is Biblioteca de la Banca de Mexico (Library of the Bank of Mexico). The City Theatre doubles as Sanchez's office, while the 'Isthmus Casino' is usually a restaurant called 'Casino Espanol'. Just outside the city, the Otomi Ceremonial Center was used as the set of the Olimpatec Meditation Institute.

Total Recall (1990): Many of the scenes were filmed in and around Mexico City. There is supposedly still blood splatter stains, at Metro Chabacano, on the Tacubaya-Col. Puebla Line, where the escalator scene was filmed. The lobby and penthouse of Hotel Nikko Mexico were also used; as was Metro Insurgentes subway station, in the Glorieta de los Insurgentes shopping mall.

Free Willy (1993): Some of the city scenes were filmed in Mexico City.

Nayarit:

'Limitless' (2011): Some of the tropical party scenes were filmed at Punta de Mita and on Isla Marietas.



Puerto Vallarta:

'Limitless' (2011): Some of the party scenes were filmed in Bahia de Banderas, Puerto Vallarta, including the reckless driving through the streets.

'Night of the Iguana' (1963):
Much of the film was recorded here. The cast, including Deborah Kerr, Ava Gardner, Sue Lyon, Emilio “El Indio” Fernández and Richard Burton all stayed in the town, along with director John Huston, and were visited often by the author, Tennessee Williams. This took place just as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were starting their relationship.

'Predator' (1987): Filmed in Mismaloya, near Puerto Vallarta. Some of the props have been left there as a permanent tourist attraction.

Rosarito, Baja California:

Home of Baja Studios, which was originally built to film James Cameron's 'Titanic'. Amongst the films recorded here are: Titanic (1997); Tomorrow Never Dies (1997); Deep Blue Sea (1999); In Dreams (1999); Pearl Harbour (2001); The Fast and the Furious (2001); Life of Pi (2002); Master and Commander:The Far Side of the World (2003) and Jumper (2008).

Titanic (1997): Vast tank built here was where much of the sinking footage was filmed.



Tomorrow Never Dies (1997): Used the tank built for 'Titanic' for the sea landing scene.

Rumorosa Pass, Mexicali:

'Licence to Kill' (1989): The climatic car chase, nominally on 'Paso El Diablo', was filmed at the Rumorosa Pass, 50 miles west of Mexicali.

San Felipe, Baja California:

'Quantum of Solace' (2008):
The dogfight that ensues when James Bond and Camille survey Quantum's land acquisition by air was filmed here.

Tulum:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Brogan and Wyler finally get together.

Yucatán, Mexico

'The Cave' (2005):
The flooded cavern system was partially a composite of several cenotes on the Yucatán peninsula. The scenic shots were in Mexico, while the action shots were in a controlled environment, namely a large tank in Romania. There was also some open water footage. The crew were on the Yucatán for five weeks capturing all this pretty scenery.

July 4, 2011

'The Silent Evolution' Gains a Car

Jason deCaires Taylor Beetle

Scuba divers in the Mexican Caribbean Sea have always had much to delight in. The colorful marine life, mammals, fish and foliage, are top draws at any time of year. However, off the coast of Cancún there is a little more to see.

'The Silent Evolution', a vast underwater art installation by Jason deCaires Taylor, already has 400 pieces in it. Last week, it received a new addition: an eight tonne Volkswagon Beetle car, designed to save the life of lobsters and crabs.

Jason deCaires Taylor Beetle

'The Silent Evolution' has been popular with tourists since its inception. The Caribbean Sea is so clear that those travelling on boats, from Cancún to Isla Mujeres, can simply peer down through the waves to view the sculptures on the sea-bed. Snorkellers and divers get the vest views of all though. It's a common sight to find people swimming above or around the area, which just adds to the surreal beauty of the place.

The VW Beetle was lowered into place on June 28th, joining hundreds of sculptures of people going about their daily business. The latest sculpture is called, 'Anthropocene'. It refers to the geological age, which we are currently in.

Anthropocene highlights how humanity has had such a significant presense upon the Earth, that we have actually altered the planet's geology. This may be through climate change or literally, with our capacity to physically reshape the world to suit our needs, in cities, quarries, tunnels through mountains, dams etc.

A car is a strong symbol of that. The metals that craft it and the oil and gas that power it are drawn from the Earth; the exhaust fumes that eminate from it affect our climate. Hence deClaires Taylor's choice to use it to represent the current age.

Jason deCaires Taylor Beetle

For humans, 'The Silent Evolution' may be a novelty beneath the sea, but there is a greater purpose here too. The world needs coral reefs. They're not just pretty, but perform a vital function as 'the rainforests of the ocean' (read more here), as well as providing homes for much of the Caribbean's marine life. However, generations of human irresponsibility and hurricane pressure has damaged the coral to the point of endangering us all.

All of the sculptures, including the latest, are made from specially treated concrete. In effect, they create an artificial, man-made coral reef. They are installed as a dull, grey object, but are quickly colonized by marine plant-life. These vibrant colors transform the sculpture into a living artform, which changes with the seasons and maturity. It will never look the same twice, as people visit it months apart.

Jason deCaires Taylor Evolution
The evolution of a previous sculpture.

Each sculpture is designed with a certain species of marine life in mind. Some provide sanctuary for fish and others, like the VW Beetle just lowered into the ocean, are for the crustaceans. 'Anthropocene' contains special features, like doorways for lobsters, gaining access to the hollow inside. Therein are places where these creatures can find a home and, more importantly, breed. The whole car is filled with such hidey-holes rendering it much more than unusual art.

Jason deCaires Taylor Beetle

To visit 'The Silent Evolution', you need to come to Cancún or Isla Mujeres. Trips are available from both places, where you may choose between viewing from above (boats and snorkelling) or scuba diving down for a close inspection. There are three main sites in the coastal waters here, including one close to the huge natural coral reef of Punta Nizuc.

Jason deCaires Taylor Beetle


Read more of our blogs on the subject:

Cancún and Isla Mujeres Underwater Art Museum

'The Silent Evolution': Life-Saving Art

May 30, 2011

Spotlight on a Tour: Pirate Assault!

Pirate Assault

There you are, enjoying a sunset out to sea, while all around you are people drinking from the open bar or dancing to live music. It is serene, it is beautiful, it's a raucous party.

Then the pirates attack.

Explosions light up the night sky. Random people are taken prisoner and it is up to their fellow passengers to secure their freedom. Fortunately, your MC will be on hand to help you devise a cunning plan. Dare you risk it?

Survivors will be taken to Isla Mujeres, that tropical island favoured by the pirates of old, for a delicious buffet meal at the Beach Club 'El Pescador'. Here the party continues on the sands. The return trip to Cancun is just as lively, with games, contests and a pirate show.

Pirate Assault


Pirate Assault

The cruise lasts for four hours, leaving from Playa Langosta Marina, in the Cancun Hotel Zone, km 6.5. It runs every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, at 7pm. For those in Riviera Maya or Playa del Carmen, then transport can be arranged from your hotel for an extra fee.

Ferry Check in: 6:00pm, Departs 6:30pm, Returns 11:00pm

Pirate Assault
Pirate Assault!
Enjoy an authentic pirate adventure on the Caribbean Sea.

December 16, 2010

Places of Worship in Cancún

The party goes on; but, just occasionally, people want a bit of actual spirituality, in amongst the divine surroundings. For those living and working in Cancún, Catholicism is the major religion. However, this is a tourist hotspot, where there are often as many religions as there are visitors to our city. Cancún can cater for them too.

multifaith


Many of the services, in a variety of denominations, are offered in either Spanish or English. If you have a preference, then please do check with the venue for the correct times. Insofar as we can verify, the information is correct at the time of writing. If anyone wishes to add/amend their place of worship, just leave a comment and it will be updated.


Buddhist Places of Worship


Centro Budismo Camino del Diamante
(Diamond Way Buddhist Center)

Calle Iguana 389,
Col Montecarlo/SM 51,
Cancun Centro
E-mail: info@budismocancun.com
Website: Budismocancun
Services: Mondays, 8.30pm - Open meditation; Wednesdays, 8.30pm - Introductory talk and open meditation; Fridays, 8.30pm - Meditation and food. Spanish primary language in all, but English is spoken.


Christian Places of Worship


Baptist

Hyatt Regency Hotel
Blvd Kukulcán
Km 10.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 880-7093
Services: Sundays, 10am.

Primera Iglesia Bautista Fundamental de Cancun
(First Fundamental Baptist Church of Cancun)

Playa Hermosa 25
Super Manzana 29
Manzana 8
Cancún
Services: Wednesdays, 7pm. Sundays, 11am and 6pm. All services are in Spanish.

Christian (non-denominational)

Cancun Fellowship Church
Cines VIP
Plaza Las Americas
Av. Tulum 260
Downtown Cancún
Website: Cancunfellowship
Tel: (998)882-1031
Services: Sundays, 8.45am (English language), 10.15am and 11.30am (both Spanish language).

Iglesia Vida de Cancún
Cancun Life Church

SM44, M6, L10, Local D.
Esq. Av. La Luna y C. Ocaso
Downtown Cancún
Website: Vidalifecancun
E-mail: info@vidalifecancun.com
Tel: (998)880-8070
Services: Sundays, 11am. Spanish/English bilingual service.

Episcopal

St Michael's Episcopal Church
Marriott Casa Magna Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 14.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 881-2000
Services: Sundays, 10am. Service is in English.

Jehovah's Witnesses

Salón del Reino de las Testigos de Jehová
(Kingdom Hall of Jehovah's Witnesses)

Plaza Cancún 2000
Avenida Tulúm, 42
Crucero, Av. Tulum & López-Portillo
Downtown Cancún
Tel: (998) 843-2013
Services: Daily, 7.30pm. Sundays, 10am and noon. All services are in Spanish. However, English language congregations are held on Mondays, 7.30pm, and Sundays, 3pm.

Morman (Church of Jesus Christ and Later Day Saints)

Jesu Cris de los Santos de las Ultimos Dias
(Jesus Christ and Later Day Saints)
Calle 10 y Calle 6
SM 63
Downtown Cancún
Services: Sundays, 8am, 10am and noon. All services are in Spanish.

Presbyterian

Puerta Del Cielo
15 Crisantemos Street
Downtown Cancún
Tel: (998) 884-2362.
Services: Sundays, 9.15am, 10.45am and 6.30pm. Sunday school, 9:15am.

Roman Catholic

Camino Real
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 9
Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-0100.
Services: Sunday Mass, 11.00am.

Continental Plaza Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 11.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-1022
Services: Sunday Mass, 12.00 (noon)

Cristo Resucitado (Resurrection of the Lord)
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 3-4
(By Plaza Nautilus)
Cancún
Tel: (998) 83-5035
Services: Daily Mass, 8pm. Sunday Mass, 10.30am, 12 noon, 6.30pm and 8pm. These services are all in Spanish. However, there is an English language mass every Sunday, 9am.

El Pueblito Hotel
Paseo Kukulkan
KM 17.5
77500 Cancún
Services: 12.00pm

Fiesta Americana Condesa
Kukulkan 16
Zona Hotelera
77500 Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-2900
Services: Sundays, 12.00 noon. Services in English and in Spanish.

Inglesia Cristo Rey (Christ the King Church)
15 Margaritas Street
Parque de las Palapas
Downtown Cancún
Tel: (998) 884-0513
Services: Daily Mass, 7am and 7pm. Sundays, 8am, 10:30am, 5pm, 6:30pm and 8pm. Services in Spanish.

Presidente Intercontinental Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 7.5
Tel: (998) 882-0300
Services: Saturdays & Sundays Mass, 6.30pm. Services in English and in Spanish.

Sheraton Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 12.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-1988
Services: Sunday Mass, 10.30am


Hindu Places of Worship


Swaminarayan Temple
Cancún

More details will be added when I can find it!

Islamic Places of Worship


None known. This will be updated if we receive information about mosques in Cancún.


Jewish Places of Worship


A wide range of English language information can be found on Jewishcancun. This includes the location of kosher food in the city, as well as religious ceremonies.

Chabad Lubavitch Jewish Center of Cancun (all Jewish denominations)
B2B Hotel and Plaza
Avenida Sayil SM-4c7
Cancun 77500
Website: Jewishcancun
Tel: (998) 219-5601
E-mail: info@jewishcancun.com
Services: Three times daily, but changeable times. Contact them for more details.

Neve Shalom (Conservative Ashkenaz)
Calle Liebre 8
Cancun, SM 20
Mexico
Tel: (998) 892-0674
Website: Neveshalomcancun.
Services: Fridays, 8.30pm; Saturdays, 8.30am. Spanish is the primary language in both services.


Pagan Places of Worship


No circles or moots are registered in Cancún.

However, there is the Isla Mujeres Women's Retreat, which offers events. Isla Mujeres itself translates as 'the isle of women'. The whole island was once dedicated to the Mother Goddess Ix Chel.

Also, look out for trips to Maya, Aztec and other pre-conquest temples, though many of these are in ruins.


Sikh Places of Worship


None known. This will be updated if we receive information about gurdwaras in Cancún.

December 8, 2010

'The Silent Evolution': Life-saving Art

In the waters between Cancún and Isla Mujeres, there is a remarkable sight. 400 life-sized statues of real people gaze up from the seabed. Their presense forms an artificial coral reef, which will help preserve the marine eco-system. Two days ago, it was also the setting for a campaign to save human beings.

The Silent Evolution


When we last highlighted the work of Jason de Caires Taylor, 'The Silent Evolution' was merely concept art. This hauntingly beautiful seabed scene is now a reality. Just two weeks ago, it was installed in the Manchones Reef, in the National Marine Park of Cancún, Isla Mujeres and Pinta Nisuc. Snorkellers, scuba divers and glass-boated boats have already been flocking to the site. At a depth of between 4-7 meters (13-23ft), it is easily viewed through the pristine waters of the Caribbean Sea.

Each one of the 400 life-sized sculptures represent a real person walking around in the world above. They range from an 85 year old nun to a three year old boy named Santiago. On his website, the artist paid tribute to 'all the models who patiently stood in their underwear covered in vaseline and plaster for over an hour, thus requiring trust and bravery'.



As with all of Jason de Caires Taylor's underwater sculptures, 'The Silent Evolution' has an important job to do. Erosion and bleaching of the world's coral reefs mean that much of the plants and creatures that rely on on them are now endangered. These statues have been especially created to act as substitute reefs. While blandly white at the moment, they will literally evolve into a vibrant and ever-changing display of color.

The installation has already attracted bright, tropical fish into its sheltering nooks. Within just a few weeks, the coral plantlife will start growing across its surfaces. The artist views the creation and placing of the statues as merely the beginning, 'the second phase is dependant on nature’s artists of the sea, to nurture, evolve and apply the patina of life.' Once the coral life has really taken hold, then each new visit to the site will reveal whole new wonders. This is living, breathing, thriving art.

The Silent Evolution and Greenpeace


'The Silent Evolution' hit doubly hit the headlines this week. As the final pieces were being lowered into place, delegates from the UN Climate Change Conference were gathering in nearby Cancún. Activists from Greenpeace, TckTckTck and 350.org wanted to get their message heard by them. The slogan was stark, 'Real people can't live underwater'. It was to press home the threat posed by rising sea levels. In a world of glaciers melting under rising temperatures, those living in low lying coastal areas, across the world, are in danger of losing their homes and livelihoods.

The protesters donned ordinary, every-day clothing, in order to free dive down to the statues. They had to hold their breath for up to a minute, so that their photographs and video footage could be taken. The human-like sculptures were created to live underwater. Human beings are not.

All of this was done with Jason de Caires Taylor's permission. In fact, he was there. Who better than the artist to take the photographs? :D

The Silent Evolution and Greenpeace


For more images, check out the slideshow here.

June 14, 2010

Cancún and Isla Mujeres Underwater Art Museum

The Silent Revolution


The picture above is entitled 'The Silent Revolution' by Jason de Caires Taylor. At first glance, it may appear as people trudging slowly over a strange, barren landscape, while the sky above casts a heavy, blue glow. However, there is something very different about this artwork. For a start, the ground is the seabed. The bizarre blueness is explained once you realise that it is all the Caribbean Sea. This is concept art and the finished product will be underwater.

The figures are life-sized sculptures, their faces cast from real life people living in the Yucatan today. They are shown as a progression of the historical population of Mexico. Some are in the dress of the earliest settlers of Mexico; others clothed as the Maya or the Aztecs or the Spanish Conquistadors or the 19th century revolutionaries or any other period that you care to mention. Those at the front are modern people; some have been cast from the faces of international tourists.

'The Silent Revolution' is currently being installed, in the strait between Cancún and Isla Mujeres. It is just one of a series of intricate and immense artwork being lowered into place there, creating the largest underwater art display in the world. The whole project will eventually consist of 400 sculptures, occupying 150 square meters of ocean floor. It began in November 2009 and will continue being added to until 2012; then it will remain as a permanent, 120 ton exhibition.

Some sculptures have already been secured into place:


La Jardinera de la Esperanza (The Gardener of Hope)



El Coleccionista de los Sueños Perdidos (The Archive of Lost Dreams)



Hombre en Llamas (Man on Fire)


The sculptures are more than just beautiful works of art. They have an important environment purpose too. They are especially created from materials which enable natural coral growth. The marine life that ordinarily clings to reefs will also form around this artwork; an attribute which is vital in an area where the coral reefs have been damaged over time. They provide somewhere for this life to cling onto. In turn, the marine life changes each sculpture, as flora forms upon it and fish, shrimp and other creatures teem around it.

Moreover, the sculptures lift the pressure from the entirely natural reefs. Tourists, snorkelers, divers and fishers may well choose to visit the art, instead of the coral. The sight is just as stunning and the fish are the same, only the foundation is less fragile. With fewer visitors than before, the actual coral reef is given a chance to repair and heal.

All in all, Jason de Caires Taylor's vision has grown from a magical concept into a wonderful, life-saving, stunning reality. To see more, please visit his site.

May 19, 2010

Pirates of the Caribbean - Fermin Mundaca

Mundaca's tombFermin Anonio Mundaca y Marecheaga was born, on October 11th, 1825, in Santa Maria, Spain. He was well educated, but as soon as his studies were completed, he crossed the oceans to make his fortune in the slave trade. He raided Mexico, in search of Mayan people to abduct and sell. He also undertook voyages to Africa, where he bought people to ship to the Americas. Both Mayan and African slaves were destined for the sugarcane plantations and mines of Cuba and the Antillas. There were rumours that he was also a traditional pirate too, but no actual anecdotes to back this up. He certainly called himself a pirate and none of the other pirates around at the time challenged him on the nom-de-plume.

By 1858, the British Navy had started to crack down upon the slave trade. Mundaca decided that it was time to retire, signalling the act with a symbolic torching of his own ship. Mundaca was wealthy enough to settle down and so bought half of Isla Mujeres. This was his tropical island retreat and he had money to spend, so he spent it. His hacienda was based near to Playa Lancheros and took over 40% of the island. It exists today and was called 'La Vista Alegre' (Joyous or happy view).

Mundaca had plenty of people to whom he could show off. In 1847, the Caste War of Yucatán had begun and, by 1858, around 250 people fleeing from it had populated the Isla Mujeres village of Pueblo de Dolores. These included fellow pirates, who no doubt looked with envy upon his hacienda. Between them, these pirates owned the other 60% of the island, upon which also lived local fishing communities. Amongst them was an emerald eyed, Mayan woman, Martiniana 'Prisca' Gómez Pantoja. She was eighteen years old, willowy, with pale skin bronzed by the sun and her beauty was already attracting interest amongst the young men of her community.

Hacienda MundacaMundaca fell in love. He called her La Trigueña (The Brunette) and had a great archway built, as the northern entrance to his estate, in her honor. El Paso de La Trigueña! The Gateway of the Brunette! He built a two-storey, palatial home overlooking a shallow valley. He created stone terraces with carved stone benches, each bearing a hand-carved plaque. He made a massive sundial for her called 'La Rosa de los Vientos' ('The Rose of the Wind'). You could tell the time by seeing upon which flowers the shadow of the dial fell, during any hour of the day. He dug a well and constructed eight walled gardens around it in an octagon shape. He extended his gardens and added a menagerie of livestock and exotic birds. He had ploughed and sown a huge vegetable garden. A second archway, as the south-eastern entrance to his estate, had the words etched into it, 'Entrada de La Trigueña' (Entrance of the Brunette). He plundered the local Mayan ruins and brought back ornately decorated stones to be used in his own hacienda. He created a warren of small pathways, lined with sea grapes and icaco, lit with torches and leading down to the bay. Coconut palms and chitale were planted for their milk. All for her.

Unfortunately for the pirate, Senorita Gómez Pantoja was having none of it. She was 37 years younger than Mundaca and already had a sweetheart of her own. She was also Mayan and he was Spanish. Three centuries of Spanish conquest was culminating even now in the War of the Castes over on the mainland. She, along with the rest of the Mayan population of Isla Mujeres, hated his guts. There was also the fact that Mundaca hadn't quite finished with his slave trading. Between 1858 and 1870, he continued to rent boats to the Government of the Yucatán, which were used to capture rebel Mayans and sell them to the Cuban plantations. Mundaca took his cut of the proceeds and he became referred to as the Spanish Consul on Isla Mujeres by the same government. He also captured Mayan people from the mainland coastline and used them as slaves to build his sprawling estate. They were made to dismantle the ancient temples on the island and use the stone for his own constructions. All in Pantoja's honor. Mundaca seemed to find no incongruity between his trade of her people and the fact that she didn't want a thing to do with him.

Prisca married her own love, Senor Martinez, and Mundaca went a little crazy watching her from afar. He became a recluse inside his hacienda, walking endlessly and stuffing his pockets full of random stones. These stones were piled up around the well, almost as a cairn to his lost love. He planted hundreds of flowers in his gardens. Except for two male servants, Mundaca saw no-one and traded with no-one. He allowed his vegetables and fruit to ripen in the ground, then fall and rot. His animals were given free rein. They frequently escaped and trampled over the crops and groves of the rest of the island. He never attempted to control them, even when they ruined the food of his neighbours.

Mundaca's tombMundaca also went to the cemetery, in the north part of Isla Town, on the island and created a tomb for himself. The granite tombstone is peculiar. It was carved by Mundaca in 1877, the date which he added to the stone. It is intriguing to ponder upon the date. Did he intend to do away with himself in order to render the date correct? Or did he consider this the moment when his life was over, despite himself still moving and breathing in it? The tombstone shows a skull and crossbones as its icon. There is also a message for his disinterested love:

Lo que tu eres, yo fui
lo que lo soy, luego seras
-As you are, I was - as I am, you will be

In the end, he couldn't stand watching Prisca getting on with life, raising a family and making her home any longer. He left the island, in 1880, and travelled 200 miles away to Mérida. There he died within weeks. Some say that he contracted plague; others say that he just withered away alone in a brothel. His body was not returned to Isla Mujeres, to the tomb which he had already prepared. It lies empty.




* Hacienda Mundaca, Isla Mujeres: The ruins of Vista Alegre are on the south side of the island. The entrance fee is $20 pesos.

* El Cementario, Avenida López Mateos, Isla Town, Isla Mujeres: Mundaca's empty tomb with the tombstone carved by himself.

* Mérida: Mundaca died there.

May 18, 2010

Pirates of the Caribbean - Jean LaFitte

Jean LaFitteJean LaFitte (pron. La-Feet) claimed to have been born in France and some biographers believe him. Others point out that French nationality helped greatly in avoiding the enforcement of American law at the time. And the Americans had a lot of reasons for wanting to enforce their law upon this notorious pirate.

If Jean LaFitte wasn't born in France, then it is likely that he started life in the French territory of Saint-Domingue (Haiti), in 1782, and moved to Louisana, USA, as an infant. He grew up exploring the wetlands and bayous south of New Orleans, until he'd memorized every inlet in the Gulf of Mexico. By 1805, LaFitte was running a warehouse in New Orleans, though which he trafficked the goods smuggled into the country by his brother, Pierre. Life was good until 1807, when the Embargo Act banned any American ship from docking at a foreign port. Lousiana had become part of the United States of America only three years before, but this meant that the brothers could not ply their trade as openly as before.

The brothers LaFitte decided to set up a private port on the island of Barataria. It was sparsely populated area and so small boats could slip beneath the watchful eyes of the custom officers. Business boomed again, as many privateers began to use this port, unloading their large cargos there, then ferrying the goods via barges into New Orleans. The brothers were soon bored though and so brought themselves a schooner, in October 1812. They were ready to become fully fledged pirates in the Gulf of Mexico.



The USA authorities tried, on several occasions, to arrest the brothers. However, this was difficult as the US navy was in its infancy, so was often overwhelmed and outrun at sea; while the people of New Orleans refused to testify against them, as they brought in goods and luxuries far more cheaply than the official sources could. Finally, in 1814, a high ranking citizen did give evidence at a trial against Pierre LaFitte. He was jailed for piracy, leaving Jean LaFitte to run amok alone on the high seas.

This was the time of the American War of Independence and the British were quick to see the strategic value of being able to use the port at Barataria. From there, they could launch naval attacks upon the American colonies. LaFitte was approached with both a carrot and a stick. If he agreed to let the British navy use his pirate port, then he would be given British landholdings, great wealth and the use of the British navy as personal protection. If he refused, then the same British navy would destroy the port. LaFitte asked for 15 days to consider it, then copied the letters and sent them to the American authorities in New Orleans. Within two days, Pierre LaFitte was allowed to escape from jail.

The Americans were taking no chances though. Gunships set out from New Orleans and found the Baratarian port. A battle took place, which the pirates lost. Many were arrested and taken back to New Orleans, but the LaFitte brothers both escaped. However, General Andrew Jackson had arrived in the city and he was horrified at how poorly defended it was. In particular, despite having a swollen fleet filled with captured pirate ships, they had no-one skilled enough to sail them. Forever opportunists, the LaFitte brothers struck a deal whereby any pirates fighting the British, on behalf of the Americans, would immediately be released with full pardon. Jackson accepted and the LaFittes, along with many pirates, received commendations for their 'courage and fidelity' in the Battle of New Orleans. They all received full pardons on February 6th 1815.

This, of course, did not stop the piracy. He took hundreds of ships and their cargo throughout the Gulf of Mexico. In fact, Jean LaFitte openly admitted to piracy in his later years, though he took care to keep his ports outside the USA. His most notable settlement was on Galvaston Island, in Texas, which was under Spanish, then Mexican control at the time. This was effectively a new and improved Barataria, until he was run off it in 1821. Then Jean LaFitte moved operations to Isla Mujeres, in the Yucatán, where he set about building his third and final base. However, it wasn't as large as his previous ports on Barataria and Galvaston, but is significant as he died there in 1826.

The manner of his death has passed into legend, with many different accounts. No-one knows for certain how it happened or where his body lies. Some say that he was killed by a Spanish warship out at sea, but his official biographer, Jack C Ramsey, wrote that Captain Jean LeFitte died of fever on Isla Mujeres. On the island, local oral history concurs and, furthermore, states that before he died, he buried treasure on their beaches. Tourists have been looking for it ever since.

* Posada del Capitan LaFitte, Playa del Carmen: A beachside resort overlooking an inlet which LaFitte used during his piracy.

* Hotel Petit LaFitte, Playa del Carmen: Another hotel in the same inlet used by LaFitte.

* Dzilam de Bravo, Progreso, Yucatán: Plaque commemorating him placed there by CEDAM. There is a tombstone in the cemetery there with the legend, 'Jean LaFitte ReExhumed'.

* Look out to sea. There have been numerous reports, from oil workers on platforms and fishermen in boats, that occasionally a ghostly fleet of pirate ships can been seen around the Gulf of Mexico. This has been credited as being Captain Jean LaFitte and his crew.

* Lord Byron's poem, 'The Corsair': Some scholars say that it's not about Greek pirates at all, but it is about Jean LaFitte.

O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,
Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free,
Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam,
Survey our empire, and behold our home!
These are our realms, no limits to their sway—
Our flag the sceptre all who meet obey.
Ours the wild life in tumult still to range
From toil to rest, and joy in every change.

'The Corsair' by Lord Byron, 1814


May 17, 2010

Pirates of the Caribbean - Sir Henry Morgan

Sir Henry MorganHari Morgan was born, circa 1635, in Llanrhymni, Wales; he was reputedly the son of a squire. He became known by the English version of his Welsh name, Henry. In 1658, he arrived in Jamaica, where his uncle was the Lieutenent-Governor. He married his cousin, Mary Morgan. It was from Jamaica that he began life as a sailor, progressing quickly to becoming a pirate around the Caribbean Sea. His attacks included ports along the coasts of New Granada, Honduras and Mexico.

By 1661, he was in command of his own ship and soon had permission from the governor of Jamaica to attack Spanish ships on behalf of England. One of his first acts was to capture several Spanish ships just off the coast of Compeche, on the Yucatán Peninsula. Morgan and his men also over-ran the Spanish owned Island of Providence, destroying every settlement and all but one of the forts. This briefly turned into a pirate owned island, but the Spanish returned with greater forces and managed to reclaim it.

When word came that the Spanish were going to attack Jamaica, in retaliation for Providence, Morgan assembled a fleet of 500 of the most notorious pirates active in the Caribbean at the time. In order to do this, he dressed in fine silks and decked himself out in expensive jewellery, then trawled known pirates haunts to find the best. They saw his garb and assumed that there were rich pickings aboard his ten ships. Their remit was to find and capture Spanish citizens throughout the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. They began in Cuba, where they planned to attack the Cuban town of Santa María del Puerto del Príncipe (now Camagüey). However, bad weather forced them to dock early. A Spanish prisoner managed to escape and warn the residents of Santa María del Puerto del Príncipe, who all fled with their valuables. Those who remained were captured and tortured for information about where their neighbours had gone. It was all to no avail though. Morgan's men managed to recover very little wealth from the town; far too little to pay his pirate horde.

Clearly there was going to have to be another raid. Morgan thought big and set his pirates towards one of the most prosperous cities in the New World: Porto Bello in Panama. What followed was fourteen days of pillage, torture, rape and murder. The city was stripped of its wealth. The pirates stayed for another month and a half, which was the time it took to transfer all of the valuables from the city onto their ships. All told their two raids brought them over 200,000 pieces of eight (the standard currency of the time, which would later evolve into the peso). By modern standards, the booty would have been worth millions. It certainty boosted Morgan's reputation. The governor of Panama itself promptly sent Morgan an emerald ring, as a bribe not to attack his own city; while the English crown sent Morgan the 34 gun HMS Oxford, a much superior ship, to help him with his career.



Despite the gift of a ship, the English could not officially be seen to endorse Morgan's behaviour. They were supposed to be at peace with Spain at the time. The governor of Jamaica was sent a message to recall Morgan and stop his piracy. This was duly ignored. Instead, Morgan sailed out with a fleet much inflated by pirates flocking to his banner. Word of mouth was a powerful recruiting tool, when the riches of Porto Bello flowed so freely. Eleven ships filled with 900 pirates set out for Cartagena, in Colombia, but first they paused for a party on Isla Vaca, in Mexico. This resulted in a rum fueled disaster, when a fuse was accidentally lit on the HMS Oxford. This ignited explosives which destroyed the whole ship with a massive loss of life on board. Morgan was one of only ten men to survive, after he was rescued from the water.

Some pirates took this as a bad omen and deserted immediately. However, there were still ten ships and eight hundred men, which set out along the Yucatán Channel towards Cartagena. Unfortunately, the wind was against them and some ships simply weren't strong enough to fight against it. Already rattled by the loss of the HMS Oxford, some crews gave up easily, so only five hundred pirates reached Colombian waters. This wasn't enough to take the heavily fortified city of Cartagena. They decided to take the Venezuelan city of Maracaibo instead. A nearby fort spotted them and gave warning in time for most of the residents to flee, taking their valuables with them. Nevertheless, the pirates stayed in the city for three weeks. They were as merciless as they had been in Porto Bello. Any remaining people were tortured and many killed, though some were kept as messengers. Then the pirates moved around Lake Maracaibo to attack the neighbouring town of Gibraltar. Here no-one had had warning, so the town was filled with its people, all of whom were tortured to discover any hidden wealth. It was all carried away.

On the way out, three Spanish warships intercepted them. But Morgan had spotted them in advance. He ordered one of his own ships to be packed with explosives. Logs were dressed up as pirates and placed around the riggings and on the decks. This fire ship was sent straight onto a course with one of the warships and the resulting explosion destroyed both of them. A second warship was captured and the third, now isolated amidst a fleet of pirate ships, was set alight by its own crew, rather than allow it to fall into Morgan's hands. The fleet managed to escape and carry its booty back to Jamaica.

Two years later, Morgan did return to Panama, despite the bribe of an emerald ring a few years previously. He took 1,400 pirates with him and the attack was so vicious that the whole city was nothing but smoldering ruins at the end of it. The modern city of Panama is located a short distance away, because the whole place had to be rebuilt. The majority of the citizens were killed, all of them tortured first for the location of their valuables. Despite all of this, there was little wealth to be carried off. Much of it had been put into safekeeping aboard a Spanish galleon anchored out in the Gulf of Panama. The pirates didn't know it was there.

Though initially arrested and taken to England for the sack of Panama, Henry Morgan defended himself in court and ended up with a knighthood instead of execution. In 1674, it was as Sir Henry Morgan that he returned to Jamaica. He took the opportunity to retire from piracy and settled down on the island. He became its deputy governor, then acting governor. He gained a reputation for drunken rowdiness and died of cirrhosis of the liver, on August 25th, 1681. He was buried in Jamaica's Palisadoes Cemetery, which sunk beneath the sea during the 1692 earthquake.

* Isla Vaca, Mexico: Morgan's ship, HMS Oxford, lies on the seabed just off the coast of Isla Vaca.

* Campeche, Mexico: Raided by Morgan in 1662. He sacked two forts and took away fourteen Spanish ships.

* Vilahermosa, Mexico: Raided by Morgan in 1663.

* Yucatán peninsula, Mexico: Morgan's ships were once stolen by the Spanish, during a land raid. He used canoes to sail around the Yucatán peninsula in order to escape.

* The drinking establishment of your choice: Captain Morgan rum is named after Sir Henry Morgan.

Captain Morgan Rum


May 12, 2010

The Pirates of the Caribbean

Captain Jack SparrowFor many people today, the pirates of the Caribbean conjures images of Johnny Depp and Orlando Bloom swashbuckling across the silver screen. For those who lived in the coastal towns and islands of the Yucatán Peninsula, just a couple of centuries ago, they were a dreadful and terrifying reality. Traces of these pirates are still there for those who dare to follow the trail.

The pirates first started operating in the Caribbean during the 15th century, but their 'golden' age was 1660 to 1730. Many of them were acting under licence from various governments, notably the Dutch, English, French and American administrations. Hiring pirates was a lot cheaper than declaring open war; which is what the governments really wanted to do. This was a time of expansion and conquest in the New World. The 1493 Treaty of Tordesillas, backed by the Pope, had effectively stopped any nations, except Spain and Portugal, from colonising the New World. If a non-Iberian ship was in the Caribbean or the Gulf of Mexico, then it had to be either a slave ship or pirates. There was officially no other reason for them to be there. All of the Iberian ships contained conquistadors. The Mayan ships were effectively put out of business, their ancient trade routes dismantled. 90% of the people had been wiped out in wars and through contracting European diseases. The rest could only watch in horror as their lands and mines were stripped of natural resources, usually by Africans brought in as slaves, impoverishing the Mayan homeland for centuries to come.

It was a time when Spanish galleons were taking great wealth home from Mexico to Spain. The emphasis was always on extracting goods and carrying them back to Europe, rather than building self-sustaining colonies in the New World. The only way that other nations could get a share of the plunder was to attack the Spanish and Portuguese ships returning home. Pirates could get knighthoods for attacking galleons and redirecting the wealth back to their own sovereign states. Back home, they were often lauded in public as heroes and patriots. Out in the Caribbean, they were generally viewed more as vicious, merciless thugs.

By 1660, repeated wars in the European homelands meant that the Spanish and Portuguese control of the New World was slipping. Other nations swarmed in to create unstable colonies, but no European power had the resources to send vast armies into the Caribbean. The Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, English and French governors increasingly had to rely on private mercenaries to harry neighbouring colonies, while protecting their own. There was great wealth to be had as a mercenary and these people were, of course, pirates. The whole area, around the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, became a lawless and dangerous place to be; where every ship and settlement was prey.

By 1720, it was all over. The European wars were largely over, leaving behind trained and huge armed forces with nothing better to do than sail out and protect the colonies. The British established a naval base in Jamaica, while the Spanish created their Costa Guarda (Coast Guard) from Mexico. Between them, they drove the pirates out of business and, for the first time in two and a half centuries, the local nations could attempt to recover. There still were pirates, of course, just not in the same numbers. Nevertheless, that still amounted to hundreds of attacks throughout the region. They tended to operate out of Nassau in the Bahamas and Isla Mujeres in Mexico, though pirates like Jean LeFitte were based further north, in the Gulf of Mexico. By now, any pirates caught were generally hanged, not given knighthoods.

Map of Caribbean


The Caribbean Sea was central, so any ship coming from the conquested and plundered South American lands had to sail through the Caribbean in order to take their treasures home to Europe. Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula coast was right on this thoroughfare and so any beach and inlet could be harbouring pirate ships ready to intercept a Spanish galleon. It was the pirates, as much as the Spanish conquistadors, which destroyed the traditional Mayan trade routes and led to the abandonment of cities, like El Rey and Tulúm port.

Take a time machine and set it onto the white sands of the Mexican beach of your choice. Look out over the sea and, depending upon the year you have travelled back to, that ship out there could belong to Blackbeard, Jean LaFitte, Fermin Mundaca de Marechaja, Sir Francis Drake, Henry Morgan, Giovanni de Verrazano or any of the notorious pirates that sailed these seas. I'd come back to the 21st century if I were you. It could get dangerous.

However, for the next few days, you can peep into this dastardly world from the comfort and safety of your home, as we go on a voyage of discovery through the real life pirates of the Caribbean.

For details of pirate related attractions, please visit our main site or peruse the list below:

Captain HookCaptain Hook Lobster Cruise

Other areas:

* Campeche: Completely destroyed by pirates several times, so had its fort and cannons built to protect it. L'Olonnais was once left for dead on its beach.

* Chinchorro Reef, Riveria Maya: Pirates used lanterns to lure ships onto the treacherous reef. Captains would see the lights far inland, but they would believe that the lights were on the edge of cliffs. Thinking that they were safe, they would sail too close to the coastline and crash on the reef. The wreckers would then swarm over the wreckage and take off with the cargo.

* Punta Herrero, Sian Ka'an: Many night time sightings of a headless pirate. The ghost is described as a giant, colored man, who patrols from one end of the village to the other.

* Subacuatico-CEDAM Museum, Puerto Aventuras: CEDAM (Club de Exploraciones y Deportes Acuaticos de Mexico; The Museum of Mexico’s Explorations and Water Sports Club, Civil Association) is a museum based in Puerto Aventuras. The exhibits are mostly from shipwrecks, many of which were caused by pirates, recovered from the Caribbean Sea. There are a few exhibits from Xel-Ha Mayan Ruins too.

The museum was formed by divers who had been frogmen in the Second World War. In 1958, they set about exploring the wreck of El Mantanceros, a Spanish galleon, which had sunk off the coast of Akumal in 1741. CEDAM have recovered its cannons, anchor and many small items, such as glass beads, belt buckles, coins and gems. These diving archaeologists went on to explore many other wrecks, as well as cenotes, and returned with more artefacts. They will also place commemorative plaques in places where there was a notable nautical link, for example, there is one to Captain Jean LaFitte in Port Dzilam, where the pirate's grave was discovered.

The museum is open Monday through Saturday all year long from 9:00 to 13:00 hrs. (9 AM to 1 PM) and from 14:30 to 17:30 hrs. (2:30 PM to 5:30 PM)











May 10, 2010

Isla Mujeres - The Goddesses and the Virgin

Isla Mujeres translates as 'The Island of Women'. It was named as such by the Spanish conquistador, Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, who discovered idols of several Mayan goddesses there. He described the idols as showing women dressed only from the waist down, with their breasts uncovered. The population also appeared to be almost exclusively female. These were fishing communities and the men were all out to sea, but he wasn't to know that.

To the Mayan, the island had been called Ekab. Ix Chel, her daughter Ix Chebeliax, and daughters-in-law Ix Hunie and Ix Hunieta were the four goddesses in residence on the island. Of the several stone buildings there, one impressive structure in the south of the island was a temple dedicated to these goddesses. The torches lit there could be seen well out to sea and so the temple doubled as a lighthouse. (The ruins of this temple were unfortunately destroyed by Hurricane Gilbert in 1988.) The area contained many gold artifacts, which were taken away by Hernández in 1517. This sparked the belief, amongst the Spanish, that Mexico was full of gold, thus paving the way for the Spanish Conquest.

Ix Chel

In pre-Christian times, Isla Mujeres was sacred to the Goddess Ix Chel, who governed over childbirth, midwifery and medicine. Shrines and pottery depictions of this jaguar eared deity have been found all over the island. In a rite of passage into womanhood, the Mayans would fashion clay idols of Ix Chel, travel alone to Isla Mujeres and smash the idol onto the floor of the temple. It was these shattered images that Hernández discovered. Pregnant women would have entered Her sweatbaths before giving birth, then again afterwards. Women struggling to conceive would have visited Her sanctuary. She is referred to, in Mayan literature, as 'grandmother' and She is sometimes represented by a waning moon. This crone goddess is often shown with claws in place of hands, crossed bones upon Her skirt and a serpent on Her head. In this way, Ix Chel is also linked with war, with a fearsome aspect, hungry for victims. She is part of the cycle of life. She takes the dead and She protects those being born.

It is worth remembering that, to the Mayan, death was viewed differently than it is in modern Western culture. Those who died in battle, childbirth, as sacrifices or by suicide, all of which Ix Chel oversaw, could be assured of direct passage to their paradisical otherworld. For others, there would be a journey and a possibility of rebirth, or being cast into Xilbalba, where they would suffer eternally. In short, if you had to die at all, then dying under the juristriction of Ix Chel was preferable to any other way.

The Mayan people may have seen the hand of Ix Chel in the fate of the 1517 Spanish expedition. After Francisco Hernández de Córdoba's men had desecrated Isla Mujeres, taking the golden artifacts of Ix Chel and the three goddesses, their ships continued on to Champotón further down the coast. It is here where they met fierce Mayan resistance and the majority of the Spanish were killed. Hernández himself was badly injured and barely escaped with his life.

"(Chief Moch-Covoh) so inspired his people that they forced the Spaniards to retire, killing twenty, wounding fifty, and taking alive two whom they afterwards sacrificed. Francisco Hernández came off with thirty-three wounds, and thus returned downcast to Cuba, where he reported that the land was good and rich, because of the gold he found on the Isla de las Mugeres."
'Yucatan Before and After the Conquest' by Diego de Landa, 1566

In Mayan mythology, Ix Chel can also be seen as a Mother Goddess. Her consort was Itzamna, the creator god, with whom She had thirteen sons. Itzamna created mankind and writing. He governs over agriculture and hunting. Two of their children created the Earth, its waters and the skies. She is grandmother to the Bacab, the four aged men who hold up the world.

A sanctuary to Ix Chel has been discovered on the Island of Cozumel, while Tixchel, in Acalan on the Yucatán coast, was certainly named after Her. A Spanish conquistador, Hernán Cortés de Monroy y Pizarro, reported another place, also in Acalan, where unmarried, young women were sacrified to Ix Chel.

Mary, Mother of Christ

In more recent times, Isla Mujeres has become a place of pilgrimage for the Mother of Christ, Mary, who acts as the island's patron. In 1890, three statuettes of the Virgin were discovered on the tip of Quintana Roo by three fishermen. The Virgins were carved of wood with porcelain hands and faces. Each of the three fisherman took one of the statuettes back to their own homes. One of them, Christiano Avila Celis, brought his to Isla Mujeres, where it was enshrined in a small palm chapel. Many years later, a decision was taken to move Her to the church, but that did not prove easy. It took the combined efforts of several men to lift Her, as She had suddenly become so heavy. Nevertheless they succeeded, but, as She was carried out, the whole chapel burst into flame to the shock of all watching.

The statuette was placed in the Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception, yet still didn't rest easily. There were sightings of the Virgin walking on the sea, during the night, around the coast of Isla Mujeres. Then, one dawn, so many islanders witnessed Her doing so that the Church could not ignore the stories. When the statuette was taken out and examined, it was shown to be covered in sand.

On December 8th, every year, there is a great fiesta held all over Isla Mujeres, in honour of Mother Mary. The event attracts thousands of Catholic pilgrims from all over the world. Festivities begin around November 8th, with the climax being the bajada, descent of the Virgin, on December 8th. There is a lesser feast commemorating the discovery of the statuettes at Isla Mujeres (and at Izamal, Yucatán and Kantunilkin, Quintana Roo, where the other two statuettes are), from August 6th -15th too. Please note, when visiting the island, that the residents tend to be devoutly Catholic and that it is standing room only at Sunday mass in either of the main Catholic churches.

Many people feel that the island is protected by its divine mother. For example, when Hurricane Wilma whipped through the Yucatán, in October 2005, the beaches of Cancun were destroyed. It cost the Mexican government $25 million to dredge sand from the ocean bed to repair them. Conversely, on the other side of the same waters, the same hurricane delivered white sand to Isla Mujeres.

Hail Mary in Spanish:


Dios te salve, María, llena eres de gracia,
el Señor es contigo.
Bendita tú eres entre todas las mujeres,
y bendito es el fruto de tu vientre, Jesús.
Santa María, Madre de Dios,
ruega por nosotros, pecadores,
ahora y en la hora de nuestra muerte.
Amen.

Endless Tours does provide trips to Isla Mujeres. A variety of them, to suit your pocket and your needs, can be found here.
 
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