The Beauty of Tulum and Xel-Ha

Wander in fascination through the remarkably preserved ruins of a Maya fort; then grab an authentic Mexican souvenir, at a sprawling, local market. Journey down onto one of the most sublime beaches upon that whole coastline, touching the very tip of a national biosphere nature reserve. Along the way, keep your eyes sharp for any number of international celebrities. This is a favourite place for the rich and famous to see and be seen. Then travel just slightly north, into the best open sea aquarium and water park on the Mexican Caribbean.

Two gems of the Riviera Maya lie close enough together for both to be visited in one day. They are Tulúm and Xel-há.

Tulúm


Tulúm is a pre-Columbian walled fort, built to protect the inhabitants and the local port against invaders from the Caribbean Sea. It stands 12m (39ft) atop a cliff commanding imposing views of the sea. A compact site, it nonetheless contains spectacular buildings, like the Temple of the Frescoes, which is decorated with niched figurines of deities; the Temple of the Diving God, with its eponymous god; the Temple of Paintings, where the paint is still discernable after 1000 years; and, of course, the Castillo. The bay below is breathtaking to survey. Tulúm is located 128km (80m) south of Cancún.

The fort at Tulúm was built around 1200 CE. It recycled some of the materials from local derelict buildings of the time. A stele, or decorated stone slab, dating from 564 CE sits proudly in a precinct created 15th centuries later. The fort was certainly an important trading center by 1518, when it was first noticed by the invading Spanish. However, it wasn't abandoned by the Mayans until the end of the 16th century.

During the interim, it would have exported gold, flint, ceramics and incense from all over the Yucatán peninsula, including copper from the Mexican highlands and exotic feathers from the inland regions. The density of Guatemalan obsidian artefacts discovered at the site provides a clue to one of its major imports, alongside salt and textiles.


As well as defence from the sea, the fort also warned of natural dangers. The Temple of Winds was built in such a way as to emit a loud wail, when the winds grew to a certain strength. This alerted the residents to the onset of a hurricane and allowed them to get to safety in time.

Tulúm overlooks the coralled reef biosphere reserve of Sian Ka'an. For many people, the turquoise shores here are more magnificent even than those in Cancún. Sitting above them, within the ruins, is a sublime experience; while many will instantly wish to hurry down and swim in those enchanting waters, before relaxing on the white sands.

Outside the ruins is a large market, where bargains may be picked up. See our blog, 'How to Haggle for Goods at the Mercado'.

Xel-há


Xel-há means 'where the waters are born' in the native Mayan. A settlement was formed around the waters in the 1st Century, which had become a coastal port by 800 CE. It is likely that it formed just one of a chain of such ports, which includes the neighbouring Tulúm, through which merchants could interchange goods. Trade would also have come via the picturesque Caribbean Sea.

Arguably the most dramatic moment in Xel-há's history came with the arrival of the Spanish in 1527. Conquistador Francisco de Montejo sought to turn Xel-há into the first Spanish settlement on the Yucatán peninsula. He changed its name to Salamanca de Xelhá and stationed his troops there. Unfortunately for his ambition, disease, deprivation and the resistance of the local Mayans soon reduced the number of his men. Montejo resorted to the desperate measure of scuttling his own ships, in order to stop any of the remaining Spanish from leaving.


They managed to stabilize their position in the settlement enough to attempt unsuccessful sorties into neighbouring areas, but over half of Montejo's men were killed in battle with the Mayan near the to the River Ake. Meanwhile, most of the 65 conquistadores, left behind to govern Salamanca de Xelhá were massacred by its residents. The whole expedition was in a sorry state by the time that another of Montejo's ships arrived with supplies from Santo Domingo. Eighteen months after arriving, Conquistador Francisco de Montejo abandoned all hope of subduing the eastern coast of the Yucatán peninsula and so left the port to its Mayan population.

Xel-há continued to be occupied until the 19th century, though most of its buildings date from three centuries before. These days, it is better known for its open sea aquarium, where snorkelling and sea treks allow visitors to get up close and personal with 70 different species of freshwater and seawater fish.


Visitors can jump off cliffs into crystalline waters; lounge on hammocks on white sand beaches; discover the jungle, on foot or on a hired bicycle; or vist the El Dorado cave, with its unique geological formations around a blue-green pool. The list is endless in this natural eco-park. A highlight is surely the chance to swim with the dolphins, though that is charged as extra.



Tulum & Xel-Ha All Inclusive
Combine Maya history with natural beauty! Tour the Tulúm ruins, then swim in the Xel Ha natural aquarium.

Xel-Ha All Inclusive
An incredible natural aquatic theme park and Mayan archaelogical ruins.

Mexican Hammocks

The making of hammocks is a proud tradition in the Yucatán. Just about every Maya home has hooks on the wall for hanging their handmade hammock. To mass produce them in a factory would be unthinkable. Every one of these products, exported globally, has been created on a loom, within a family concern. It is often the women who take charge here, though men and children will happily take their turn.

The Maya have been using hammocks since the 1300s. They didn't invent them. The idea was imported from the Taíno people of Ayiti (modern day Haiti), discovered during trading trips. The word 'hammock' means 'fish net' in Arawakan, the language of the Taíno; which gives a huge clue as to what they were making them from. The Maya soon began to stamp their own personality and creativity upon the concept.



Mexican hammocks are not made out of fish nets. They are woven out of up to a mile of pure cotton. A few test runs apparently taught them that lying on knots hinder relaxation, so the Maya hammocks do not contain any. The idea is to dye the cotton strands in advance, then keep going from a single yarn. The end result is probably the most comfortable hammock in the world.

Picture a hammock and you possibly have one for a solitary person, strung between two palm trees. With your head close to one tree, and your feet at the other, it cocoons you. If you're trying this with a Mexican hammock, you're doing it wrong.



These are designed to lie width-ways across it. That opens up the hammock and allows two or more people to relax side by side. It becomes firm, moulding to each body, as it gently sways. Some are huge, holding up to five people before another hammock is required. In Maya homes, they don't only serve as beds, but as chairs too. A common use is as a baby's cradle. They are very safe for this, so the little one can't roll out. In large families, hammocks can be very economical with space!



Hammock weaving accounts for 60% of the industry of the Yucatán Maya. Ever since the Europeans arrived, in the 16th century, Mexico has been exporting brightly colored weaves. Often the colors will tell you something about the artisan who made it.

Young people are encouraged to experiment to find their own designs or the best hues to string together. They are also taught how to construct their own looms. Your own loom means that you're on your way to self-sufficiency; and can make a living in areas that are often mired in poverty.



By adulthood, with centuries of traditional knowledge and an apprenticeship of personal experience behind them, they are ready to launch their choices into the international market. You can imagine the glee, when their creation out-sells everyone elses!

This accounts for the fact that no two Mexican hammocks are exactly the same, though they may appear so from a distance. After all, a winning formula is going to be reproduced! The hand-woven designs might have tassels, elaborate knots on the fringes or anything else that the imagination can throw up. Each person wants to put their all into this. It's a matter of honor, accomplishment, status and pride, so they want to stand out.



The process of creating a Maya hammock is called sprang weaving. This interlocks the weave in a diamond shape, which has a practical function, as well as looking pretty. The crossing of threads is what makes it so durable. A single hammock should last its buyer a life-time, as they don't easily wear out.

(Caution should be taken, if you lie on them with buckles or other sharp objects on your person. Not only is this going to be uncomfortable, but you might snag the thread. That's about the only way you are going to destroy this hammock.)



So next time you're drifting off to sleep, in your Mexican hammock, throw out a quick thought for the individual who made it. Because they'd be thrilled to bits that you choose their hammock - with their design, which they personally wove for you, on a loom that they built themselves. Enjoy!

Yucatán: Largest Ever Congregation of Whale Sharks

Take a boat off the Yucatán Peninsula this week and you will see the most astounding sight. The water is filled with the gentle giants of the sea, all meeting to feast on little tunny fish eggs. Whale sharks are there in their hundreds, with an estimated 420 of them forming the biggest aggregation. A second group are even further out to sea.


The Mexican Caribbean is home to the whale sharks, which can stray as far north as the Gulf of Mexico and the Southern coast of the USA. While sightings are rare up there, a glimpse of them off the Yucatán can be guaranteed, if you know where to look.

Yet their numbers this year have taken locals and scientists by surprise. Usually they are solitary creatures, meandering their way through the ocean alone or in schools no more numerous than a dozen. The hundreds in the Yucatán Afuera aggregation have brought researchers flocking to record this amazing event.

Flyovers have taken in the scale, with aerial footage and measurements; while scientists in boat are weaving amongst the whale sharks, collecting samples of food in nets.


This is the world's largest fish, with adults reaching lengths of 40 feet (12 meters); yet they are utterly harmless to human beings. Their diet consists mainly of plankton, plants or very small fish. Though, as the recent feeding frenzy shows, mackerel eggs are apparently a favourite.

Meanwhile, over in the second aggregration, in the Yucatán Cabo Catoche, it appears that shrimp and small crustaceans were there main draw on the menu.

Whale sharks swim with their mouths open wide. As water funnels through, they filter out the good stuff and keep it in their stomachs. The rest is channeled out through their gills.


Despite their huge size, whale sharks are not aggressive. They have a reputation for being incredibly docile and moving extremely slowly through the ocean. They will generally ignore human beings, as we aren't food; though well-fed ones are more inclined to be playful. They will happily allow people to swim alongside them and will even give them a 'ride', towing them through the water.

They live up to 100-150 years. Each one has a unique pattern of spots on its back, acting like fingerprints to identify them.


Mike Maslanka, biologist at the USA's Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute, explained the significance of this find. "With two significant whale shark aggregation areas and, at the very least, one active spawning ground for little tunny, the northeastern Yucatán marine region is a critical habitat that deserves more concerted conservation effort."

His colleague, Lee Weigt, head of the Laboratories of Analytical Biology, added, "Having DNA barcoding is an incredibly valuable resource for this research. It not only allowed us to know what exactly this huge aggregation of whale sharks were feeding on, not readily done from only physical observations of eggs, but it also revealed a previously unknown spawning ground for little tunny."

It is worth noting that whale sharks are considered 'vunerable' by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. This is due largely to over-fishing and trophy hunting. The greatest predator for whale sharks being, of course, humans.

Nichupté Lagoon, Cancún

No-one can miss the Nichupté Lagoon, in Cancún. It is that crystal clear body of water, that the seven-shape of the Hotel Zone encloses, between itself and the mainland. During the day, it throngs with boats, kayaks, skiers and divers. At sunset, the whole scene softens, serene, golden and beautiful. At night, there are merely the lights and the music; and the romance of the dinner cruises. This is the lagoon that so many call paradise on Earth.



The lagoon is naturally formed, though it originally lapped against mere sandbanks, encasing it from Cancún Bay and the Caribbean Sea. Now those sandbanks, in the distinctive figure 7, have been built up to house Cancún's impressive hotels. Nichupté does encounter the ocean though, with two different narrow channels at each end. These are the Nizuc Canal, at the southern end, and the Sigfrido Canal in the north.

Nichupté Lagoon is the collective name for eight lagoons, all interlocking to form one large one. Individually, they are: Laguna Bojórquez, North Basin, Central Basin, South River, Río Inglés, Del Amor, Lagoon and the Mediterranean. Stretching 12km x 5km (7m x 3m), this is an area of outstanding natural beauty, edged with dense jungle mangroves. So many memories have been formed here, from the sunbathers at its shores; to the adrenaline junkies driving powerboats and jet-skis across its center; to the marriage proposals whispered over candlelit suppers, sailing upon its depths.



Nichupté is also home to a bewildering variety of marine life. Most notable of all are the Mexican crocodiles.Also called Morelet's Crocodile, this is an endangered species. They grow to around 3 metres (9.8 ft), feeding on birds, fish, insects and small wildlife.

They used to be plentiful here, but increased tourism has pushed them back into the more remote, quieter areas. Nevertheless, they are still out there, which is why swimming in the outer lagoon is discouraged. It still happens, especially amongst the daredevil locals!

Not that anyone is missing much by not taking a dip there. Many sections of the lagoon are enclosed, to protect humans from the crocodiles. Meanwhile the hotels, lining its shores, all have several pools; while the Caribbean Sea is a short walk away.

In the lagoon itself, there are red crabs, blue crabs and a huge diversity of fish. The heron, ibis, pelican and cormorant soar overhead. Snakes and raccoons forage in the jungle foliage around it.

The snakes actually named the area. The Mayan 'Kaankún' translates as 'nest of snakes', referring to those living in the mangroves around Nichupté Lagoon. The snakes slithered away into less populated areas, Kaankún was Anglocized into Cancún and the rest is history.


View Larger Map

The northern and eastern shores of the lagoon are where most of the visitors to Cancún converge. It is here that the grand hotels, huge shopping malls, entertainment venues, nightclubs and marinas can be found. If you fancy venturing out onto the lagoon, many trips and excursions can be booked from vendors in the Hotel Zone, including, of course, Endless Tours.

Jungle Tour
Drive your own speedboat, across Nichupté Lagoon, through the mangroves, and out into the Caribbean Sea.

Getting Married in Cancun

Happy Valentine's Day, beautiful people! On this day of flowers and chocolates, it's not unusual for the big question to be popped. Down on one knee; eyes shining, full of hope; the ring proffered in a trembling hand; and a smile around the words, "Will you marry me?" And if the answer is a resounding, "Yes!", then beyond the hugs, kisses and excited calls to everyone you know, another big thought looms. Where should we get married?



Over the past decade, the Riviera Maya has grown in reputation as a dream wedding location. As the costs of traditional weddings soar, it's often a simple task of mathematics to realise that it would be cheaper to get married in paradise. Legally binding, but against a backdrop of white sands, a turquoise sea and palm trees. Does it get more sublime and romantic than that?

So many people choose to marry here that wedding packages, planners, stores and all of the other associated services have become big business. There will be no shortage of professional people ready to help you arrange your big day. In Cancun, especially, there are hundreds of locations licensed to hold weddings. You can download a PDF on the Cancun Travel Information site, which shows you a selection of them.



But first the boring stuff - the legalities! First check that a marriage in Mexico will be recognized in your own country. For heterosexual couples, this isn't usually a problem. For homosexual couples, you may find that your own government will not consider your union to be valid. There have been reports that the Australian authorities will even withhold travel permits, for those citizens who are planning a same sex wedding abroad. Either way, a legal wedding in Mexico will result in a marriage certificate, verified by the Registrar's Office.



If all is good, then you will need to bring certain documents:

Documents Required for Civil Office

• Home address and occupations (bride & groom)
• Birth certificates (Original or certified copy of each one)
• Valid passports (Although passports are not required for US citizens for entry into Mexico, they are mandatory for weddings)
• Original blood test (to determine blood type, HIV and STD). Tests must be taken at the resort and results are ready within 24 hours (Fee of approximately $50.00 per person applies)
• Original or certified copy of former spouse's death certificate (if applicable)
• Original divorce decree (if applicable)
• Legal documentation of adoption or name change (if applicable)
• Tourist ID (provided by customs upon your arrival at Cancun International Airport)
• Name, age, nationality, home address, occupation, driver’s licence or passport and tourist ID of 4 witnesses. Witnesses must arrive two (2) days prior to ceremony. If witnesses are not available, we will provide them.
• Bride and Groom must arrive to Cancun at least 3 working days prior to the wedding ceremony to meet with the wedding coordinator and submit all documents. Ceremony will not be performed unless all documents are in order. (no exceptions)

** Do Not Send Documents by Mail **
-Reservations should be made in advance to guarantee preferred wedding date. -Mexican registry office is only open from Monday through Saturday
-Dress code: Formal or Semi-formal, no shorts or bathing suits
Source: Cancun Mexico Weddings

Once the legalities are dealt with, then there is a wealth of details to determine. Will you marry in a hotel, on the beach, in a Maya village, on a golf course, in a sacred place or maybe at Chichén Itzá itself? The list is endless! Though a religious ceremony may require extra documentation and a minister.

Requirements for a Catholic marriage in Cancun are:

• Certificates of baptism
• Certificates of confirmation
• Permission of the selected church
• Two witnesses
• A passport-size photo of both the bride and groom
• Prenuptial counseling attended by both the bride and groom

Source: Cancun Travel

For all other religious marriages, it is better to check with the local representatives. The Cancun places of worship are listed here.

Of course, some people like to have more than one ceremony; and why not? It's their big day!



This photograph was taken from the roll of Nina and Anesh. They opted to have both a traditional Maya ceremony and a Hindu wedding, though on different days!



With documentation ready and location chosen, your next step is to organize your wedding. For those traveling miles to marry in paradise, it might be worth hiring a local wedding planner. A simple search on the internet will provide you with pages of links to them. Alternatively, if you wished to arrange matters yourself, the same search will provide everything from florists to satellite link video producers, who ensure that those back home share in the day.





Tempting, isn't it? Happy Valentine's Day all!

Why You Shouldn't Approach a Shark Giving Birth

The blogosphere is currently agape with sensationalist writing - shark attack in the waters around Cancun! A woman has been bitten! Flee the sea! Reading these, and the newspaper stories that inspired them, would have anyone convinced that the Caribbean Sea is now grey with hordes of smirking sharks staring down tourists in the hope of a snack. It's patently time to inject a little truth into the reporting.


Bull Shark - one of the suspects (Photo: Brian J Skerry)
I'll admit that, when I first heard about this, I was skeptical. Despite the headlines, this just doesn't happen here. In fact, we have already covered the highly improbable scenario of a fatal shark attack, in the waters off Cancun: Sharks in the Mexican Caribbean. So was this incident making liars out of us? Not really, no.

The official verdict on the circumstances has yet to emerge, as it's been too soon. However, we can piece together the likely events from eye-witness reports and the telling of the victim herself. Nicole Moore is currently recovering well in Cancun's Hospiten. Despite rumours to the contrary, all of her limbs are intact and likely to be functional in the future. She is perfectly able to explain the situation herself.

Even her father, talking to the National Post, stated that, "Some of the reports have been grossly exaggerated." While the director of the hospital, Dr. Italo Sampablo, has commented, "We've not had this kind of incident here previously."


Cancun's Caribe Park Royal
Nicole is a 38 year old nurse, and a mother of two, who traveled to Cancun with a party of ten fellow Canadians. They all hail from Orangeville, Ontario, and came here to celebrate the 50th birthday of their fitness instructor. Her husband and two daughters stayed home. On Monday, Nicole was amongst a crowd of people playing volley-ball on the beach. It was an activity organized by Cancun Caribe Park Royal hotel, where she was staying. As the sun crept up towards noon, coupled with the exertion of the exercise, she decided to go into the sea to cool off.

As to what happened next, the Mexican authorities are waiting on their report until they can establish that it was definitely a shark and not a barracuda. However, eye-witnesses state that it was definitely a shark. The fact that none of them can identify which species of shark would suggest that no-one present was an expert in the field. However, specialist knowledge was not required to see what was happening: the shark was giving birth!


Tourists clambered around to take photographs or simply to get a good look at the wondrous event. After all, you rarely get to see something like this outside of the Discovery Channel! Nicole was one of them. Also attracted by the sudden furore were lifeguards, who quickly assessed the situation and blew heavily on their whistles to clear the water. Jetskis were mobilized to get between the shark and the tourists. However, before they could reach them, the shark snapped.

Unfortunately, Nicole was closest to her jaws at the time. She suffered injuries to her arm and thigh, but never lost consciousness. She is a nurse. She instructed those around her on how best to stem the blood and apply First Aid, until the paramedics could reach her. Ten minutes later, she was in the hands of professionals and en route to hospital. She has undergone surgery, but is now awake, chatting with friends and looking forward to going home. It's believed that she will be able to return to Canada in a week.

Meanwhile, the shark, having delivered her warning, disappeared into the open ocean. Presumably to find somewhere more peaceful to deliver her young. Four lifeguards, on jetskis, searched the area immediately afterwards and were unable to locate her. As a precaution, the Cancun Caribe Park Royal beach was red-flagged for the rest of Monday through to yesterday. It is unknown whether it will remain so today. There have been no more sightings anywhere along the Yucatan coastline. Some people are defying the ban and going into the waters anyway.

Packing for your Cancún Vacation

The tickets are bought. The currency is changed. The last day at work is over and done with; and the beach is beckoning. So all there is left to do now is to pack for your Cancún vacation. If this is your first time here, then this is the moment of pause. What to take? What to take?



Let us recommend a few things:

* Passport. This is necessary to enter another country and then return to your own.
* Plane/boat tickets and other travel documentation. Unless you're planning on walking, swimming, driving or catching the train, then you'll need these to get there.
* Accommodation documentation. This is only necessary if you have booked your hotel in advance and they have asked that you bring it along with you. This does, however, include the name and directions to where you're staying. That way you can direct a taxi driver or find it for yourself.
* Medical and automobile insurance documentation. This is only necessary if you are planning to rent a car. Copies of documentation will be fine.
* Credit card/ATM card/money. This is to pay for all of those trips, taxis/buses/rental cars, food, drinks, souvenirs etc. For more information on the age-old issue of dollars versus pesos, as well as learning about Mexico's tipping etiquette, click here.
* Essential medication. These drugs might be keeping you alive. However, it is worth checking out their legality in Mexico. There is more information about that here.

In reality, we could actually stop there. You are not heading out into the wilderness. Mexico has plenty of shops, while Cancún itself has dozens of malls and markets. Whatever you have forgotten from this point doesn't matter. It can be bought or replaced quite easily; in some cases, far more cheaply than its counterpart back home. It would be the very epitomy of travelling light, but it is feasible!


La Isla Shopping Village, one of the many retail areas in Cancún

However, let's assume that you don't want to spend all of your vacation money on kitting yourself out. The rest of the list are suggestions, with the rationale alongside, for you to decide what you actually need.

Bags and other Luggage

* Suitcase. Obviously needed to carry all of this stuff. It's worth getting a sturdy one, then attaching something to it, like a ribbon, so you can recognize it later on. Your suitcase is stored in the cargo hold during your flight. It's then tossed onto a conveyor belt for you to pick up later. You'll be thankful of the ribbon, if you and all of the other 300 passengers brought the same brand and color suitcase with you.
* Collapsible bag. So you packed your suitcase to the brim on the way out, then you went shopping for souvenirs. 12 gorgeous Mexican blankets and 3 sombreros later, it suddenly occurs to you to ask how you're going to get them home again. Out comes the collapsible bag, that you had flat at the bottom of the suitcase. Voila! Something to check in with all of your new purchases in it.
* Hand luggage. All airlines will have restrictions on the size of the bags that you can keep with you on the plane. Also, in these days of high security, there will undoubtedly be limitations on what you can pack in it. Check with your own airline to see what you can use here. Many airline security guards will secretly want to kiss you, if you purchase a transparent bag. It makes their job a lot easier.
* Beach-bag. To be fair, this could double up as your hand luggage for the plane. Ideally a beach-bag will have zippers on it, so that things don't drop out to became buried treasure. Think of what you might need on a beach (book, suntan creme, beer...) and choose a bag sized accordingly.

Clothes and Footwear

Cancún is very laid-back and the weather is hot. Most people will be wearing summer clothes/swimwear and flip-flops. A light cardigan is fine for the evenings, though you might not even need that.

* Swim-suits. Bring two or three. You will probably be living in these, so it gives one set chance to dry out, while you wear the other set. Then swop again the next day.
* Swim-suit Cover-Up. Viva sarong! Even the most shapely supermodel might feel a little self-conscious nipping to the shop in a bikini or swimming trunks. Also remember the heat of that sun. Sunburn might make you want to cover those shoulders for a while.
* Two or three summer outfits. Shorts, t-shirts, summer dresses etc. This is attire for shopping malls and day-trips. It is best here to think in terms of complimentary colors. That way you can recycle things by mixing and matching, thus keeping your luggage weight down.
* One dressier option. Some of the classier restaurants will require you to be dressed up. Also, you may wish to sign up for a romantic cruise around the lagoon. Substitute this for your clubbing gear, if you are going to tour Cancún's huge array of nightclubs.
* Light cardigan/thin sweater/cotton jacket. You might want this during the evening. You will more likely be wanting it when you get off the plane back home.
* Flip-flops, sandals or similar. This is what the majority of people will be wearing around you. The sidewalks can get very hot in the sun, so flip-flops will stop you burning the soles of your feet.
* Water shoes. With such a selection of water-based activities, water shoes can be very helpful. This is more of a health and safety consideration. They will help your grip on slippy steps at the edge of cenotes; they reduce the risk of picking up verucas from fellow tourists etc.
* Closed-toe casual footwear. Sneakers, tennis shoes and the like. This is mainly for some of the trips, where such articles are required. For example, no-one will let you go zip-lining in flip-flops. Also, this could be your footwear in which to arrive and depart, assuming that your home country isn't as hot as Mexico right now.
* Smart shoes. These are only to compliment your dressier outfit; so don't bother taking them, if you aren't packing that.


Crowd in Cancún

Sundries

* Toiletries. This includes your toothbrush; toothpaste; deodorant; perfumes; aftershave; shaver/razor; make-up; moisturizers; gels; contact lens solutions et al. all of the things that make you look and smell beautiful. It is worth packing these inside waterproof bags, in case they burst in transit. Shampoo, shower gel, soap and bubble bath bottles are usually complimentary in the hotel rooms. Most hotels also provide hairdryers in your room.
* Sunglasses. This is an absolute must. The sun can be very bright out there.
* Sunhat/Sun visor/Cooler headbands. Anything that shades your face from the sun and/or cools you down could well become your best friend. Cancún and its environment can become very hot.
* Beach Towel. While hotels do have towels for use in the rooms, few will allow you to take them down to the beach. Some hotels will rent beach towels to you though. If in doubt, ask your hotel what their policy is regarding beach towels, then pack accordingly.
* Book or magazine. Just something to read during those lazy days sunbathing.
* MP3 player. Lots of places will be playing music anyway, but sometimes you just want to listen to your own special tunes.
* Camcorder/Camera/Underwater camera. You will only need an underwater camera if you intend to snorkel or go scuba diving. They can be rented to you from resorts, but usually at a high price. Remember to include camera film/memory card/batteries/recharge cable.
* Biodegradable sunscreen. If you are planning on swimming in the sea or a cenote, or indulging in a water-based activity, then you will often find that you have to use biodegradable sunscreen. This protects the local flora and fauna, not to mention helps save the coral reef. More information on that is here.
* Mosquito spray. You will only need this if you are venturing out into the jungle.
* Small/basic First Aid kit. This is only for those minor cuts and aches that you can easily deal with, without wasting valuable vacation time seeking out the hospitals. It could include Band Aids; aloe gel for sunburn; hangover cures etc.
* Electrical adaptor. You will only need this if you are a) bringing electrical items that need plugging in or charging; and b) your home country's sockets are different to those in Mexico. More information is here.

Thank You

Having surpassed 1,000 unique visitors to this blog, I wanted to thank you all for reading it. What makes us even prouder is that 700 of you kept coming back for more! I am glad that you are finding it an entertaining source of information about our beloved Mexico.

When we started this blog, in May, I didn't expect to be sitting here just three months later looking at nearly 2000 visits, amassing 3,863 page views, on it. That's really made my day. Thank you very much and I hope that you will continue to enjoy the articles that we write.

You may be interested to know which are the top ten most viewed blog entries:

1, Why Biodegradable Sunscreen?

2, Pirates of the Caribbean - Jean LaFitte

3, Why Can't I Climb on the Maya Pyramids?

4, How to Haggle for Goods at the Mercado

5, El Calendario de Todos Santos

6, Roger Waters, 'The Wall', in México City, 2010

7, Drug Wars - Cancún is Safe for Tourists

8, Gay Vacations in the Riviera Maya

9, The Oil Leak isn't in the Mexican Caribbean

10, Xcaret - The Secret Sanctuary

Thank you very much for reading! <3

Barracuda in the Mexican Caribbean

There is something quite sinister about things with teeth in the ocean. It's a consideration that is particularly keen when you're immersed in said ocean, wearing only a swimsuit and a snorkel mask. Suddenly any shape, half glimpsed from the corner of your eye, is a shark. You turn quickly and face it head on. It's a bit of coral. You try to still your thundering heart and resolve not to think of the 's' word. Then a second word creeps into your consciousness: barracuda.

The 1970s have a lot to answer for. After the global success of 'Jaws' (1975), it seemed that any company with a camera and an ocean was making a 'horror in the deep' movie. (We've already covered sharks in a previous blog.) In 1978, along came 'Barracuda'. Its opening scene had two divers devoured by a battery of barracuda. The sea around them turns red with blood. The camera follows a severed hand rising to the surface. Screams abound. Scary stuff.

It's only as the movie progresses that we discover that chemicals have been released into the ocean. Their pollutants cause aggression in everyone and everything that drinks it. Its exposure to this that has the barracuda riled to the tips of their fins. Mutant barracuda, in fact, not natural behaviour at all. But by then, who cares? All that's crept into the cultural mindset are the over-riding facts: barracuda live in the ocean; they have teeth; they will eat you. This naturally gives people pause, when they learn that the Mexican Caribbean is home to barracuda.



There was also a 1997 film called 'Barracuda', but that was a 'Misery' rip-off and didn't involve fish.

Reversing out of the theaters, it's time to look at the reality of these much maligned creatures. First of all, it's worth noting that there are 27 different species of barracuda; yet only one, the Great Barracuda, has been reported to attack humans. Yes, the Great Barracuda does live in the Mexican Caribbean.

However, these attacks are rare. Prof Donald Perrin de Sylva (University of Miami), the world's leading authority on the Great Barracuda, stated that there have been only 25 confirmed cases in the past century. They have usually got a good cause attached to them though. Either the person attacked was attempting to spear the barracuda with a harpoon at the time; or else they were swimming in murky waters, whilst wearing shiny jewelry. In short, their jewelry looked like a tasty fish and, therefore, dinner.

Right there is your big 'surviving an encounter with a barracuda' tip. Don't swim in murky waters (easy to achieve in the crystal clear Caribbean, as long as you avoid the mangrove estuaries); and ensure that you remove shiny jewelry if you want to enter such places. (If the barracuda can see you clearly, then you could be bedecked with all the Mexican gold in the country and they won't attack. They will clearly see that you're not a fish.) Also, unless you're aiming for a Darwin Award, don't attempt to harpoon them whilst standing two feet away. If you do see one, then keep calm and don't make lots of jerky movements. Just back away, carefully and precisely, so that you both can go about your day.

Most unexpected meetings are similiar to that experienced by blogger, Mellasview, in her 'What to do if you see a Barracuda in the Water':

'...seeing this spectacular predator in the water, as stiff as a board was by far the most awesome sight I saw while vacationing. It had a mysterious power to it, and was the only fish I saw that seemed to sit so still that it looked frozen. Like a hummingbird, it was quite a beautiful, yet mysterious sight to see.'

In this case, Mellasview was swimming when she noticed the Great Barracuda just three feet away. She was wearing a shiny bracelet at the time. She covered that up and backed away slowly. The Great Barracuda did not attack.

Human beings are not the prey of the Great Barracuda. They prefer fish. However, they can be intensely curious about us. Many a diver has spotted a barracuda, just lying stationary in the ocean, watching him/her. One of the major theories is that humans often equate disturbed fish, especically when the anglers are around, which is another way of saying 'buffet time!' to the barracuda. 99% of the time, they will just watch, then go away. Or watch, then swim closer to see better, then go away.

Many of the businesses in the Riviera Maya rely upon taking tourists out to sea. The snorkeling trips, the boat trips, the fishing trips, the diving trips and dozens of others, all involve taking human beings deep into barracuda territory. It's estimated that over 566,000 people have entered the Caribbean Sea, around Cancún alone, every year. Yet the local and international media remains resolutely unsaturated with barracuda attack stories. These attractions would soon close down, if the tourists were regularly bitten.

Incidentally, I should pause at this point to emphasize 'bitten'. Barracuda don't kill human beings (unless through food poisoning, after a meal of them turned out to contain ciguatera). Even the most ferocious barracuda attacks on record simply required a bit of surgery or some stitches. They move with lightning speed, take one bite, then disappear off into the ether. As soon as the victims know that it's happened, it's already over bar the hospital visit. And again, let's restate that 25 cases in 100 years (globally) statistic.

The sports fishing community often have more trouble. But it's not themselves who are the targets. It's their catch.

This travel blog photo's source is TravelPod page: The remains of our catch post Barracuda attack, Tobacco Caye, Belize

Barracuda will quite happily surround a fishing boat, waiting for their meal to be lured onto the hook. Then they hurry in for a feast and leave just the head for the bemused fishing folk to pose with. If it's the wily barracuda itself that's been hooked, then you get the infamous reports of it flying through the air, onto the boat, then back off into the ocean. It's simply removing the hook from its own mouth and is clever enough to know that upwards is the way to do it.

In conclusion, yes, there are barracuda here. But you're highly unlikely to be attacked by them. Happy swimming!

The Lionfish Situation

While everyone waits anxiously for news about how the Gulf of Mexico oil leak will affect migrating sea life, there is one species that marine biologists wish would just go away. The lionfish might look impressive, but it's also a voracious predator currently experiencing a population boom in the region.



The lionfish is a favorite of tropical fish tanks across the world. Tourists often squeal with delight to see them in the oceans, because they now know for certain that they are in the tropics. That is if the white sands, turquoise sea and palm trees hadn't already given them the clue. However, it's not native to these waters. No-one had seen one in the Mexican Caribbean until January 2009.

Lionfish should be in the Pacific Ocean, specifically around the Indian Pacific. Their range covers Western Australia, Malayasia, French Polynesia, the Pitcairn Islands, South Korea and Japan. Until recently, it didn't include the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican Caribbean. Now, it most definitely does. Their numbers have grown to critical level in the waters around Cozumel particularly.

No-one knows why they are here. The major theory is that Hurricane Andrew destroyed an aquarium in Florida, USA, releasing the lionfish into their oceans. They then just migrated down into the Caribbean. However, this view has been challenged by NOAA ecologist James Morris Jr, who was spotting them around Florida as early as 1985. The amended guess then is that Floridean tropical tank owners have been privately releasing the lionfish into the oceans, perhaps when they wanted to close down their tank. This is not unknown. Lionfish have been found as far afield as the waters off Long Island, New York, and in the Mediterranean Sea, both as a result of tropical fish tank owners letting them go. Those captured, in the Caribbean, have been proven, through DNA, to all be descended from the same six or seven fish.

Lionfish are not generally deadly for human beings. They will keep their distance for a start, being extremely wary of us. Even if they did sting a human, with their venomous dorsal fins, the affected area would simply be painful. A good soaking in some warm water would sort that out.

It's only those experiencing an allergic reaction to the venom who need to worry, in the same way as some people aren't good with wasps. That said, the current medical advice is to have a sting checked out at a hospital, just in case.

However, for the smaller marine life, lionfish pose a greater threat than all of the sharks and other natural predators put together. The lionfish's favorite snack are those algae-eating creatures. These help to protect the coral reefs, as a build up of algae could hinder the growth of the reefs. From late afternoon until dawn, lionfish are travelling up and down the coral, eating whole any unfortunate herbivore fish that crosses their path. As many as 185 juvenile native fish a day could be eaten by just one lionfish. This includes some species that were already endangered.

With such a buffet on hand, and no natural predators in the area, the numbers of lionfish are increasing every day. The females can each produce up to 30,000 offspring! The lionfish here are also growing much bigger than their usual 12cm (5"); some as big as 55cm (22") have been seen. Volunteer divers are capturing them and killing them on sight.

Meanwhile, some enterprising local events have been staged, as a way of disposing of lionfish, while also highlighting the situation. Ricardo Gomez Lozano, director of the Cozumel National Marine Park, organized a lionfish tournament recently. Divers and fishers set out to land as many as they could, with the winner being the one with the biggest catch. They were caught live and dropped into ice water, as a humane way of killing them. Tournament over, and this being Mexico, everyone relaxed with a barbecue on the beach.

"This is the beginning of the invasion for us, but we have seen how quickly infestations have developed elsewhere." Ricardo Gomez Lozano warned, "We have to act quickly."

So if you are a fishing enthusiast or a diver and wish to do your bit for the environment, please do come down to Mexico on a lionfish hunt. Your coral reef needs you! For safe, effective hunting and cooking of them, please visit the Lionfish Hunter website.

The Oil Leak isn't in the Mexican Caribbean

Since late April, the media has been full of the ecologically tragic events in the Gulf of Mexico. Yet we've not mentioned it in this blog. That's not through any lack of concern (we're watching the unfolding catastrophe with as much horror as everyone else), but because the remit of this blog is really to discuss what's happening in our own backyard. What hadn't occurred to us is that some would be worrying that the beaches of Cancún are currently oil slinks. They're not. The oil is travelling around the Gulf of Mexico; the Mexican Caribbean is, thankfully, free.



For those who have been living under a rock for the past few months, here is the summary of what's going on. On April 20th, 2010, there was an explosion on the Deepwater Horizon oil rig; which located in the Gulf of Mexico, just south-east of Louisana, USA. Several people lost their lives, while an underwater well starting leaking oil into the region. 5,000 - 25,000 barrels worth of oil per day flooded the ocean, with the obvious danger to ecosystems and wildlife. The coastlines of the USA's Louisana, Florida, Mississippi and Texas are all affected, as well as the waters around them.

This is still on-going, with the most pessimistic estimates stating that it will be Christmas before the clean-up is completed. In the intervening months, there have been several attempts to stem the tide of oil still leaking from the pipes. The oil rig's owners, BP, have tried various things, while an army of scientists, engineers and other experts have descended onto the issue. Solutions from the world's commentators have ranged from the feasible to the downright whacky. But most of the media debate has homed in on the more sensationalist stories of - who's to blame? While those in the spotlight seem to spend a lot of time explaining precisely why they aren't to blame.

That's the situation in a nutshell. For us down on the Mexican Caribbean, we can be very thankful for a wonderful natural current that pulls the oil away from us; while being concerned about the future for our marine wildlife.

Try to picture the current of the world's oceans as a gigantic conveyor belt. The prevailing current alongside us has come from West Africa. It surges across the Atlantic Ocean, through the Caribbean Sea and up the Yucatán Straits. Think back to all of those early pirate blogs that I wrote, about how Spanish galleons, reliant on windpower and currents, had to sail north out of the Caribbean Sea, in order to cross into Europe. They were using this very same current.




The Yucatán current

It is this current that has not allowed the oil leak to head south onto the beaches of Cancún and the Riviera Maya.

What is anticipated is that the bulk of the oil, currently trapped in an eddy called Franklin, will be released onto the coastline of Texas, USA. It will then be carried back east and will eventually be taken out into the North Atlantic. There it will continue to do untold damage to the ecosystems of the East Coast of America.

It is possible that, as the eddies break down, oil could just touch the tip of the Yucatán Straits. If this happens at all, it will be in the late autumn, possibly around October or November. This is being monitored, with a series of 80 buoys set up outside of Alacranes Reef a month ago. The buoys are fitted with sampling devices and satellite transmitters, at different depths, which act as an early warning system for those receiving the data. In any case, it is unlikely that oil in the Yucatán would be in liquid form, nor nearly as toxic as it's been in Louisana. It is also likely that it would be well below the surface and far from the beaches, as a south-eastern current will then pick it up and take it into the Florida Straits. While not good, it's certainly not as bad as it could have been.

Yesterday, the internet suddenly erupted with news, from Miami, USA, that the oil leak has travelled down to Cancún. This was news indeed for us, who are eye-witnesses to miles of still unblemished beaches. We are also in daily contact with those on the 'front line', ie the fishermen, boat operators, divers and others who make a living out in the waters of the Mexican Caribbean. None of them have reported seeing any oil or disperants at all. We have been gazing long and hard at the satellite images that purportedly show the oil this far south. While it does, indeed, show a black mark, it doesn't actually say that it's oil. For the moment, we'll believe the evidence of our own eyes and simply report that our beaches are completely free of oil. We'll be the first to tell you when they aren't.



As for the current real effect on the Mexican Caribbean, the concern is for migrating marine life. The larvae of fish and lobsters all travel north. They would have been saved by the eddies and should have made it through; however, the homeward journey could well be another matter.

Also, little is known about the migratory path of the whale sharks. They exist in the Yucatán Straits, but have also been seen near Louisana. Are they the same whales sharks? Or two different colonies? Marine biologists are currently fitting them with tracking devices to find out. If they are the same, then this endangered species is in big trouble; along with the equally endangered bluefin tuna, which spawns in the region of the oil leak. Several agencies are out looking for the whale sharks. Some have been seen already. We are just anxiously awaiting the safe return of the rest.

While the situation further north is terrible, we can confidently state that the oil leak isn't in the Mexican Caribbean. If you have booked, or thinking of booking, your vacation here, then please stop worrying about the oil ruining your break. The Caribbean is still pristine; the sands are still white. We're extremely confident that they'll stay that way.