The Culture and Controversy of Cuicuilco

Mexico City is built on the remains of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán. Before Tenochtitlán, there was another ancient city, the oldest in the entire valley. Cuicuilco was Mexico's Pompeii; a thriving, important place, with pyramids pre-dating Chichén Itzá and Teotihuacan, and a population of 20,000 people. Then the Xitle volcano erupted.



Parts of Cuicuilco are still visible now, but most is under the lava; and Mexico City is creeping on top of the remains.

In Aztec times, the lava plains were a wilderness. Miscreants were banished there, to die of exposure or to be bitten by the rattle snakes, which lived in the area then. Today, this is El Pedregal de San Ángel, or simply El Pedregal, an upper class residential district of Mexico City. Mansions cling to the mountainside, overlooking the major northern boulevards of the capital; hemmed in, to the east, by the University.

In the 1940s, this entire developement was designed and built by Luis Barragán. His vision was to create modernist houses in harmony with the landscape. Outcrops of volcanic rock, frozen in time since its post-eruption cooling, became garden walls; smoother plains became walkways and roads.



He called this the Gardens of El Pedregal. Experts have called it 'a turning point in Mexican modern architecture'. The complex was accessed through the Plaza de las Fuentes (Plaza of the Fountains), with fountains that intermittantly cast water high into the air. Prominent artists were brought in to add their talent to the aesthetics of the place. Chucho Reyes advised on colors; Mathias Goeritz created sculptures; Xavier Guerrero allowed the use of his specially formulated, rust-free paint. But the houses themselves were pure Barragán.



This is where the great and the good of the Mexican upper classes lived and still live. The years have lost much of the original architecture, under layers of expansion and home extensions. Mansions got larger and even the iconic Plaza de las Fuentes is now just a side-street, edged with sprawling housing plots.

However, those interested in how it once was can visit Mexico City's Museo Nacional de Arquitectura (National Museum of Architecture), in the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes, on Avenida Juárez and Eje Central, in Lázaro Cárdenas. There is a permanent exhibition of Barragán's El Pedregal.

The Gardens of El Pedregal isn't the only modern development crowding in and on top of Cuicuilco. In 1997, Mexico made legal history, when members of the public sued the president and other dignitaries, over the construction of a shopping center and entertainment complex there. (Cuicuilco: Public Protection of Mexican Cultural Patrimony in an Archaeological Zone.) Building ultimately went ahead, but it left safeguards in law against future destruction of the site.



So what is all of the fuss about? Cuicuilco was certainly the oldest human settlement in the Valley of Mexico; it is possibly one of the most ancient in the entire country. The foundations of the city were laid around 700 BCE. It is believed that, at the time, it was the most important civic-religious center in the Mexican Highlands. Beneath the lava there are pyramids, which could well dwarf those on the surface. Some have theorized that they might have been the largest man-made pyramids in the world.



Little is known about the people who built Cuicuilco, though the exchange of trade goods shows that they interacted with the Olmec. Archaeology has pointed towards a hierarchical society, with chiefs at the top and slaves at the bottom. These were a deeply religious people, who buried their dead with ceramic grave goods. Skulls have been found, with teeth filed into sharp spikes. These were a people fearsome to behold.

The artwork from Cuicuilco was exquisite. A new era of ceramics was born here, starting around 600 BCE. Their pottery was unique to the age and highly prized in distant cities, amongst other tribes. This wasn't merely bowls and cups. They were idols made in the image of deities, demonstrating remarkable craftsmanship.


An artist's impression of Cuicuilco in its heyday

Their city must have been spectacular. Terraces, plazas and many residences have been uncovered. They had engineering knowledge - irrigation ditches fed their fields and brought water from the lake into the city; canals ran like arteries through their streets. There is evidence of warfare or attack. Fortifications surrounded them.

But mostly what would have been seen, from a vantage point on the highlands, were the oval and conical shapes of the farmer's cottages. For miles around the ceremonial center, there were the fields. Corn, maize, beans, squash and tomatoes were amongst the crops cultivated here. Smaller temples, some with up to five altars, dotted the landscape between the massed agriculture.

Cuicuilco sprawled, the mega-city of its day, much like its modern counterpart, Mexico City. Thousands of people were attracted into its midst, generations of them adding and building and expanding. Their gods grew and changed in prominence. By the end, the fire deities had presidence; but that didn't stop the volcano erupting.


Eruption of Xitle by Gonzales Camarena
Xitle blew twice, once in 50 BCE and once in 400 CE. This cinder cone volcano still stands above Mexico City, in the Ajusco range to the south-east. The pyroclastic flow of lava, from both major eruptions, covered substantial parts of the city of Cuicuilco. The final one led to its abandonment. From hereon, the culture of the population can be seen spread out across Mexico; while the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán was founded further down in the valley, beside and upon the lake.

For those campaigning against further modern development of the area, the importance of the history is at the forefront. This was one of the most prominent early cultural centers in Meso-America; yet too few digs have been untaken by archaeologists.

However, there is a small, but very vocal group who want work to stop because it's disturbing and obscuring the lava plains. They have pointed out that examining the extent of the previous eruptions might be of vital consideration for future crisis management. After all, if Xitle blows again now, Mexico's capital city is now right in its path. The homes of many of Mexico's richest residents, including the President, is on top of the area buried before.

There are also some who say that the Cuicuilco people never quite went away. There are pervasive stories of the ghosts of priests and sacrificial victims, in the homes of those living atop the lava plains. Perhaps they have an urgent message, from personal experience, for those intent on ignoring the huge swathes of volcanic rock. Or maybe they are just stories.



Cuicuilco is open to the public, as both an archaeological site of historical importance and a nature reserve. As well as the interest in the site itself, its heights afford a stunning view over Mexico City. Tourists and locals alike are often found strolling across it, climbing onto the summit of its remaining pyramid.

During the spring equinox (around March 21st), there is a sudden boom in visitors. The area becomes once again a place of religious pilgrimage, as people gather to greet the dawn. The sun's rays, on that morning, from the top of the pyramid is believed to refresh the spirit and bring blessings upon their lives in the following year.



Whatever your beliefs, Cuicuilco is a beautiful place to meander upon. It is recommended to anyone visiting Mexico City.

The Legendary Home of Luis Barragán

Luis Barragán was a legend amongst architects. Frequently referred to as Mexico's most influential designer of the 20th century, he received the Pritzker Prize for his work.

(For the uninitiated, that's the architect equivalent of being awarded a Nobel prize.)

His public buildings have inspired awe and wonder for decades; sometimes without people realising that they were looking at one of his creations.

The Torri Satélite is one of his. It is a group of towers designed to be seen from a moving car, in the middle of a Mexico City highway. It's a landmark viewed by thousands every day. The aim was to provide something interesting to survey from a traffic jam, which Mexico City unfortunately excels in providing. As the drivers sit there, awaiting their turn to move forward a few feet, their stress levels are reduced by this monumental art. It works.



However Barragán remained an intensely private man until his death in 1988. Then the world finally got the answer to the burning question, 'if his commissioned work is this good, then how amazing could his home, refined over the years, be?' The answer? It is stunning.

Luis Barragán's House and Studio was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2006. This means that a United Nations panel, comprising of 21 countries, considered it important enough to be protected as a building of 'special cultural or physical significance'. This puts it on a par with places like the Pyramids of Giza, the Statue of Liberty, the Persepolis or Uluru (Ayer's Rock). This isn't just a pretty house.



From the outside, it's not even particularly that. Those strolling along Calle Ramírez, in Mexico City, would be forgiven for walking right on by, unknowing of the wonders behind the bland exterior wall. Barragán built his house to blend into the existing surroundings. His building appears like any other in the street. It's unprepossessing, grey concrete. Yet stand on tip-toe, from the front of the house, on the opposite side of the road, and colors start to emerge within.



It is only as you step through the front door that the artistry becomes apparent. Every corridor and room is individually designed, with vivid colors and masterful use of light. The whole house is his canvas, from the positioning of the walls, through to the shape of the rooms, and their aspects. The artist plays with perspective. It is difficult to judge exactly how large or small any area is, because his design seeks to play tricks with the eye.

The house is filled with secret places. Rooms within rooms; or staircases, which afford unlikely views into spots of intense beauty, art or the garden. It was built to be an emotional experience, which can only be tapped into by actually being there. As such, at one time photography was prohibited, on account of the camera never being able to capture the mood. It's not a building to see, but to feel.

"In alarming proportions the following words have disappeared from architectural publications: beauty, inspiration, magic, sorcery, enchantment, and also serenity, mystery, silence, privacy, astonishment. All of these have found a loving home in my soul."
Luis Barragán, accepting the Pritzker Prize for Architecture

Photography is allowed in the property now, though only on the roof terrace. Some observers maintain even that misses the point.







The architect's fascination with light and shade was built into his home's design. By closing a shutter or switching on a light, then a whole room can be transformed. As such, knowledge of its secrets means that it can be displayed in very different ways. A visitor might not see the same house twice.

Casa Luis Barragán, is on General Francisco Ramírez 12-14, Colonia Ampliación Daniel Garza, México city. Tours are by appointment only, but can be arranged by calling (52) 55 5515-4908 or e-mailing casaluisbarragan@gmail.com.

Religious Tourism in... Cancún?

Cancún has been chosen by the Vatican as the location for an important gathering next year. From April 23rd to 27th, 2012, millions of ordained Catholic priests and lay people will descend upon the city from all over the world. The focus of the conference is be the pastoral care of tourists; and it will draw religious leaders from international resorts.



The VII World Congress on the Pastoral Care of Tourism is being organized by the Holy See. Now that the location has been decided, the Vatican have enlisted the assistance of the Mexican Episcopal Conference and the Prelature of Quintana Roo-Chetumal. The agenda is two-fold: 'religious tourism' and the spiritual needs of people temporarily away from their own parish.

'Religious tourism' is not a new concept. As long as one place has been set aside as holy, there have been pilgrims going to it. However, the last century has seen people moving in ever greater numbers away from their homes for a vacation. Their destinations are often motivated by the wish to visit a religious center or shrine; not always related to their own spiritual leanings. (Yesterday's mention of the Ix Chel Temple, in Punta Sur, attracts far more nominally Christian tourists, than young Maya women hoping to become pregnant.)



In the Catholic world, it would be forgiven for assuming that the number one draw is Vatican City, Lourdes (France) or Our Lady of Fatima (Portugal). It's not. It's the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, in Mexico City. While it is heavily visited by international tourists (of all denominations), the massive lead it holds over the other sites is due to home-grown Catholics. Mexico is a huge, staunchly Catholic country; whose citizens find it easier and cheaper to visit a holy site which isn't on the other side of the world.

Mexico's ambassador to Vatican City, Hector Frederick Ling Altamirano, confirmed his country's willingness to host the event. The Pontifical Council for the Pastoral Care of Migrants and Travelers was assured of the 'large sympathy' of the Mexican government, along with a promise of support.

"The realization of this event in Cancún confirms the excellent state of bilateral relations between Mexico and the Holy See, also confirming the convergence of views on the issue of tourism and its important human dimension."

So Catholics, consider this a head's up. If you were planning on having it large in Cancún that week, you could find yourself doing so under the guidance of thousands of priests. Finding someone to hear your Confession is not going to be a problem, which, given that this is Cancún, is probably a huge bonus!

Two Ancient Artefacts Unearthed in Mexico

This has been a great week in Mexican archaeology, as two important artefacts have been uncovered, in different locations in the country.

The first was in the Maya ruins of Tonina, Chiapas. The 5 foot (1.5 meter) figurines depict cross-legged warriors, with their hand tied behind their backs. They are carved from limestone blocks and date from 695 CE. Fortunately, much of the guesswork about their purpose is removed, as the statues include inscriptions. They show prisoners, who are destined to become offerings to deity, alongside fire and incense, on the field of battle.

These findings have provided intriguing evidence that the city of Copan allied with the Maya tribes of Palenque at this time. It is a fact that has been long suspected by historians, as a lot of circumstantial information exists pointing to such a partnership. The aim of these series of battles was control of the powerful Tonina area. It was a prize that was important enough for human sacrifices to be made.

Tonina today exists as ruins. It has a series of pyramids, rising in terraces above a central plaza. The site includes a ballcourt and 100s of carved monuments. The famous stucco sculptures are here. There are also several mysteries; like why a design of statue exists here, dating from the 9th century CE, which hadn't previously been in evidence since the much earlier Olmec people reigned supreme.

Tonina is the central of a huge archaeological project, seeking to shed more light on this vital period in Maya history. This was the Late Classic, when the last widely marked Long Count of their calendar ended. The date is etched into many of the monuments here.

During this time, the Maya people lived in staunchly independent city states; however, the seeds of political and economic unity, across the Maya world as a whole, had been cast. It was also an era of warfare, as each tribe battled for supremacy in the widening social structure; hence the appearance of the statues of the warrior-prisoner sacrificial victims.

However, experts have cautioned against leaping to the conclusion that Copan tribes were involved in the fight for Tonina. The inscriptions, on the newly discovered figurines reference the inauguration of a new ballcourt in the city. They may turn to have nothing to do with these critical wars after all.

The Tonina complex is open to the public. The nearest modern town is Ocosingo, in the state of Chiapas. As well as the impressive structures, there is also a site museum providing a context to its history. A large selection of artefacts, uncovered in Tonina, are on display here.

This week's second artefact discovery is Aztec in origin. It is a sixty tonne monolith, depicting a currently unidentified rain god, which was dug up further west, in the state of Morelos.

Construction workers were preparing land for a shopping center, beside a main highway leading out of Cuautla City, when their diggers uncovered the stone. Work immediately ceased, as the archaeologists moved in to complete the unearthing; and to take steps to preserve the carved artefact for future study. It has been found in the general vicinity of the historical Aztec site of Xochicalco, so may well have been linked to the people there.

Early speculation is that the deity shown, in carved markings on the stone, is a god of corn and water. Amidst the large number of hieroglyphics, there are a lot of symbols relating to agriculture and rain accompanying His image. The known Aztec god, Tlaloc, accompanies the unidentified god on the stone. Tlaloc has been associated with many things. He is the God of rain, fire, fertility, crops, agricultural, storms, thunder and lightning, leprosy and the south.

Raul Gonzalez, an archaeologist called to the monolith, reports, "These signs on the rock are fundamentally associated with agriculture and water. We think it's highly probable that it was used during rituals to ask for rain and it was placed in a position facing Popocatepetl."

Popocatepetl is one of Mexico's active volcanoes. Standing at 17,802 ft (5,426 m) high, it is clearly visible from Mexico City to the north. The popular tourist town of Puebla nestles just below its eastern slopes. This violent volcano has a long history of major eruptions; 15 of them have occurred during the past 500 years, with the latest at the beginning of last month. In 2000, tens of thousands of people were evacuated from residences within its range, as a huge eruption was signalled.

The third and last time it truly blew its top was in 800 CE. This event would have seen a massive Plinian eruption; resulting in an unstoppable pyroclastic lava flow, which would have filled the basins below for miles around.

It is thought that the creation of the monolith, facing Popocatepetl, happened just a century before. The great-grandchildren, of those carving and raising it, would have witnessed that cataclysmic explosion. It seems fitting that their monument as been uncovered, just as the volcano has been building up its greatest displays in 1,200 years. If it transpires that the unknown deity is an Aztec god of volcano appeasement, then the discovery is also lucky. We might just need Him again!

The gigantic Aztec monolith is currently roped off, in situ, though it is clearly visible from the main highway connecting Cuautla and Xochicalco. It's too soon to be certain what the future holds for its care, though the land developers are naturally still hoping for their shopping center on the site.

If the monolith is moved, then it is likely that will be to the the UNESCO listed World Heritage site of Xochicalco. The same people, after all, almost certainty created both it and the structures there, often during the same period of time. This remarkable place of impressive Aztec history is open to the public.

Whatever happens to the artefact, it is sure to increase our knowledge of the ancient Aztec people, as those hieroglyphics start to be translated in their entirety.

A Taste of Mexico: Cornish Pasties?

The succulent Cornish pasty was once the preserve of Celtic miners. The D shaped, crimped edge pastry is filled with potato, beef, swede/turnip and onion, seasoned with salt and pepper. It can be easily carried and keeps the heat sealed within for a sustaining lunchtime meal, deep within the pit shaft. These days, anyone can and does eat it. It's too delicious to pass up! And it accounts for 6% of the Cornish food economy.



But hold on! This is supposed to be a blog about Mexico and, tasty as the Cornish pasty is, it has Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for a Celtic nation in the British Isles! That's a bit far away to be of interest to us. Or so you'd think. But try telling the people of Mineral del Monte, Hidalgo, that.

Mineral del Monte is town with a population of around 12,000 people, nestled high in the mountains of central-eastern Mexico. It's a beautiful place, full of red-roof houses, built at an altitude of 8,800ft (2,700 meters), in the Sierra de Pachuca. This is a smaller mountain range with the larger Sierra Madre Oriental.



To the locals (and the tourist board), the town is more often called Real del Monte, or simply El Real. It was designated a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town), in 2004, because of its cultural significance. The town has a definite Olde Worlde feel to it, with narrow streets winding along, lined with historic houses. Many early 19th century buildings are kept in excellent repair. They are often now museums, showing how the town used to be in the early days.

This has always been a mining town. Amongst the attractions are guided tourist trips into mines; a former miners' hospital and cottages dating from the 1820s, restored to how they would have looked then; a mining museum; and Museo de Medicina Laboral (Museum of Workplace Medicine), showing how injuries were dealt with down the pits. There is also the Monument to Miners, an impressive statue in the main plaza.


A second glance might also reveal the British influence, amongst the native Mexican and Spanish. The parish church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary) has two steeples, one in the Spanish style and one in the British. There is a British graveyard around the back, where the stones all traditionally face distant Britain. All of this might give a huge clue as to why we were waffling on about Cornish pasties at the start of this blog entry.

Between 1824-1848, a group of 350 economic migrants from Cornwall arrived in Real del Monte, lured by the silver mines, while escaping crippling conditions back home. The mining industry had been in decline in this part of Mexico, so this wasn't the easy option. Through sheer hard work and determination, the Cornish revived these mines and made them profitable again. Their endeavours, in turn, attracted Mexican miners to the area and the town became firmly established.

Their labour wasn't all that the Cornish brought with them. Mexican workers soon spotted the lunch that their British colleagues were eating. It didn't take them long to send their wives knocking on the doors of their Cornish neighbours, in order to get the recipe for the pasties. The meal is called 'paste' in Mexico, pronounced 'PAH-stays'. Today there are still over 30 paste vendors in Real del Monte, rendering it the town's most popular food.


The tradition Cornish pasty has ended up with some changes, in its evolution into a Real del Monte paste. Beans, sausages, pineapple, mole, apples, chillis, rice and tinga (shredded chicken) have all found themselves inside the crust. But then Mexicans have always liked to be experimental, even with already great ideas!

The descendents of the Cornish miners and their families are still there, though all now consider themselves Mexican. There's barely a word of the Cornish language to be heard, as they've all favor Spanish. But the links remain.

In 2001, the Sociedad Cultural Cornish-Mexicana (Cornish-Mexican Cultural Society) was formed to strengthen links between the two people.

Recently paste maker, Ciro Peralta Gonzalez, flew to Cornwall in order to learn the traditional recipe at the source.

Every October, the Cornish Pasty Festival takes over the town.

This year's event has benefitted from the formation of the cultural society. A party of people from Cornwall (some with ancestors among the original emigrants) will be traveling to Mexico to join in the festivities. They will be joined by Judith MacGregor, Britain's Ambassador to Mexico, and Diana Kennedy, a British celebrity cook known for creating Mexican dishes. Exciting times for little Real del Monte!

It is believed that these Cornish miners had an even bigger impact upon Mexico, than simply leaving pasties and a mining heritage in one of its towns. It appears that they also missed their sport. In 1900, in neighbouring Pachuca, some young men clubbed together to create a football team.



Charles Dawe, John Dawe, James Bennetts, John Bennetts, William Blamey, Richard Sobey, William Bragg, William Thomas, Percy Bunt, Lionel Bunt, Albert Pangelly and William Pengelly were the Cornish footballing miners, who now found themselves in need of another team to play. They encouraged the formation of football teams as far away as Mexico City.

They are credited with introducing the now national sport of futbol into Mexico. Gracias Cornwall!

Filmed in Mexico

Mexico has always been a great country in which to shoot films. Not only has it got its own thriving movie industry, but it is very close to Hollywood. A short drive, or an even shorter plane journey, can see a whole cast and crew coming south of the border. They are all taking advantage of the megadiverse scenery and the wide open spaces. Everything from deserts to rainforests to oceans to subterranean worlds to sprawling urban locations can be found here. Of course, it helps enormously that average production costs are up to 30% lower than in the USA, Canada and Europe.

According to The Internet Movie Database, some 16,218 movies have been filmed in Mexico. This has been going on since the very dawn of Hollywood. Some of the scenes are rather surprising. For example, who guessed that the climatic sinking scenes, in 'Titanic', were filmed in Rosarito; or that the same location doubled as Pearl Harbour? We couldn't possibly cover all of the movies here. However, here is a taste of what Mexico's scenery helped bring to the silver screen. Please do comment with any of your favorites that we missed.

Acapulco, Mexico:

'Fun in Acapulco' (1963): Elvis Presley did go to Acapulo to film this.



'Licence to Kill' (1989): Sanchez's home is actually the real life Villa Arabesque, on the di Portanova Estate, near Las Brisas in Acapulco.

'Limitless' (2011): The cliff dive happened here.

Cancún:

'The Real Cancún' (2003): Filmed in and around the real Cancún.

Catemaco, Veracruz:

'Apocalypto' (2006): The rainforest scenes were filmed here.

Chichén Itzá:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Coach Sully catches up with Brogan and Wyler. The Sacred Cenote, which plays a prominent role in the film, is located at Chichén Itzá.

Cozumel:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Brogan found Wyler.

Isla de Mujeres:

'Against All Odds' (1984): The Cozumel scenes were actually shot on Isla de Mujeres.

'Licence to Kill' (1989): This is where James Bond and Felix Leiter find Sanchez. It's also where the underwater scenes were filmed.



Mexicali, Baja California:

'The Game' (1997): Van Orton is left here by gamesters.

Mexico City:

Home of Estudios Churubusco (Churubusco Studios), where films have been made since 1945. Amongst those known internationally are: The Fugitive (1946), Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1968), Amityville II: The Possession (1982), Rambo: First Blood Pt II (1984), Licence to Kill ( 1988), The Hunt for Red October (1989), Total Recall (1990), Romeo and Juliet (1996), The Mask of Zorro (1998) and 'Resident Evil: Extinction' (2006), plus many more besides.

'Licence to Kill' (1989): Much of Isthmus City is really Mexico City. The ornate post office is real. It's Mexico's City main post office (Oficina Central de Correos, Calle Tacuba 1 y Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas). The 'El Presidente', where James Bond and Pam Bouvier spend the night, is really Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, though the exterior is Biblioteca de la Banca de Mexico (Library of the Bank of Mexico). The City Theatre doubles as Sanchez's office, while the 'Isthmus Casino' is usually a restaurant called 'Casino Espanol'. Just outside the city, the Otomi Ceremonial Center was used as the set of the Olimpatec Meditation Institute.

Total Recall (1990): Many of the scenes were filmed in and around Mexico City. There is supposedly still blood splatter stains, at Metro Chabacano, on the Tacubaya-Col. Puebla Line, where the escalator scene was filmed. The lobby and penthouse of Hotel Nikko Mexico were also used; as was Metro Insurgentes subway station, in the Glorieta de los Insurgentes shopping mall.

Free Willy (1993): Some of the city scenes were filmed in Mexico City.

Nayarit:

'Limitless' (2011): Some of the tropical party scenes were filmed at Punta de Mita and on Isla Marietas.



Puerto Vallarta:

'Limitless' (2011): Some of the party scenes were filmed in Bahia de Banderas, Puerto Vallarta, including the reckless driving through the streets.

'Night of the Iguana' (1963): Much of the film was recorded here. The cast, including Deborah Kerr, Ava Gardner, Sue Lyon, Emilio “El Indio” Fernández and Richard Burton all stayed in the town, along with director John Huston, and were visited often by the author, Tennessee Williams. This took place just as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were starting their relationship.

'Predator' (1987): Filmed in Mismaloya, near Puerto Vallarta. Some of the props have been left there as a permanent tourist attraction.

Rosarito, Baja California:

Home of Baja Studios, which was originally built to film James Cameron's 'Titanic'. Amongst the films recorded here are: Titanic (1997); Tomorrow Never Dies (1997); Deep Blue Sea (1999); In Dreams (1999); Pearl Harbour (2001); The Fast and the Furious (2001); Life of Pi (2002); Master and Commander:The Far Side of the World (2003) and Jumper (2008).

Titanic (1997): Vast tank built here was where much of the sinking footage was filmed.



Tomorrow Never Dies (1997): Used the tank built for 'Titanic' for the sea landing scene.

Rumorosa Pass, Mexicali:

'Licence to Kill' (1989): The climatic car chase, nominally on 'Paso El Diablo', was filmed at the Rumorosa Pass, 50 miles west of Mexicali.

San Felipe, Baja California:

'Quantum of Solace' (2008): The dogfight that ensues when James Bond and Camille survey Quantum's land acquisition by air was filmed here.

Tulum:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Brogan and Wyler finally get together.

Yucatán, Mexico

'The Cave' (2005): The flooded cavern system was partially a composite of several cenotes on the Yucatán peninsula. The scenic shots were in Mexico, while the action shots were in a controlled environment, namely a large tank in Romania. There was also some open water footage. The crew were on the Yucatán for five weeks capturing all this pretty scenery.

June 19th: Father's Day

Yesterday was Father's Day in Mexico. Día del Padre (Day of Fathers) always falls on the third Sunday in June, so its date, unlike Mother's Day, can change. Other than that, the day holds many similarities to Día de las Madres, only the parental focus has changed.


Día del Padre is a day for honoring fathers and father figures. Children and adults alike will have presented their dad with a card and gift. As with Mother's Day, the little ones will often have made something at school, while older children and adults will have bought their tokens of appreciation from a shop.

This is a day for family. Being Sunday, in a staunchly Catholic country, the whole extended family might well have met up for Mass at their local church. Afterwards, everyone congregates at the parental home, where a shared meal usually evolves into a small party. It is all for the patriarch of the home, who could expect a steady stream of children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren, lining up to tell him how great he is.


In some areas, the celebrations spill out of the homes and into larger events. In Mexico City, the 31st annual Carrera del Día del Padre (Father's Day Race) was held in Bosque de Tlalpan (Tlalpan Forest). Organized by professional athletic associations, the 12,000 participants will have paid up to $400 entrance fee. But there are substantial cash prizes attached to a sliding scale of awards. The overall winner will net $50,000.

Categories include everything from athletic standard to veteran fun runs; though a popular one is the Father and Son Race. Birth certificates proving their relationship is required to sign up to that one. They hurtle out over 13 miles (21km), after the 7.30am starting whistle sounds, into a mostly forested route. However, some of the roads in the city will be closed as part of the race. Afterwards, there is a carnival atmosphere, as times are displayed for all (gathered from chips clipped to each runner) and the award ceremony takes place.


For most fathers in Mexico, the day is less competitive and more family oriented. If it isn't the Mass, meal, party combo around the home, then it will be a day trip with everyone in tow. The whole family might descend upon a local attraction or beauty hotspot; or attend a sports venue as spectators only!

A (slightly belated) feliz Día del Padre to all the Mexican fathers (and other nationalities visiting) out there!

Bono's Birthday Bash in Mexico City

Irish supergroup, U2, were in Mexico last month, as part of their 360° Tour. If the notion of seeing them in concert was enough to excite fans, then what happened next drove them into a frenzy.

Lead singer, Bono, was celebrating his 51st birthday, with crowds gathered at his restaurant to catch a glimpse of the band. That was all the excuse he needed to step out onto the streets. The champagne cork was popped right in the middle of his over-joyed fans.



Bono had already been establishing his Mexican credentials. On stage, he donned a sombrero offered by a fan; wearing it for a chorus of 'The Real Thing' before handing it back. Later, he declared, 'we are Irish Latinos'. The crowd appreciated it. They apparently had adopted Mexican pseudonyms for the event.

Adam was introduced as Rafa Marquez, while 'behind me, he never changes, he still looks 24, the chicharito of the band, Larry Mullen' and Edge was christened Hugo Sanchez.
'Where's Frank?' www.u2.com

Mexico City's Aztec Stadium was packed out for the three nights that they played. Each concert had sold out to its capacity of 105,000 tickets, but a good view was assured by the staging. The 360° Tour refers to the circular platform upon which U2 were playing. Huge screens relayed images of the band above their heads.


The 300k plus crowds in Mexico were just a drop in the ocean for this tour. It has already become the high-grossing tour, by any artist, in history. An estimated $558 million has been made from it.

Since forming, in 1976, U2's activism and promotion of social issues have been as famous as their music. Their trip to Mexico was no exception. From the Aztec Stadium's stage, on the final night, Bono highlighted the plight of victims of drug violence in northern Mexico; and castigated the unchecked flow of arms from the USA. His speech led to a rendering of 'Pride (In the Name of Love)', with slightly altered lyrics to create a Mexican context. (Footage of the event can be found here.)


Mexican president, Felipe Calderon, was in the audience that night. Bono, who seems to have had a private audience with just about every world leader, prominent peace activist and religious representative of the past two decades, was invited to meet with President Calderon.

Their discussions took place behind closed doors, in the presidential offices at Los Pinos, in Bosque de Chapultepec. It is believed that they covered the issues caused by arms and drugs trade, poverty, global warming and Mexico's role as host of the G-20 meeting in 2012.

Chihuahua: The World's Smallest Dog

There are 1,700 different species of animals indigenious to Mexico. Some are world famous, yet one stands out above them all. The national emblem of our country is the Mexican golden eagle, but it might as well be the chihuahua.


This is the world's smallest dog, standing at around 6-10" (15-23cm) tall. It is named after the northern Mexican state of Chihuahua. Along with chocolate, coffee, corn and tequila, the breed is one of the country's most successful exports. Most of the globe is familiar with the little guy.

The ancestor of the chihuahua was slightly bigger. This was the techichi, a favorite dog of the Aztec people. It apparently had a mystical significance too. The techichi were thought to be so loyal that they would guide their human companion's soul through the Underworld into safety. It would fight off all evil spirits in their path. As a result, the poor techichi was often sacrificed and burnt, along with their owner, so that the two could journey on together.

Even after the coming of Christianity to Mexico, this practise continued. Only now, the techichi were used as scapegoats. Cremating one in a human funeral pyre meant that the techihi dog would take on the human's sins. Thus its owner could carry on straight into Heaven.


Techichi
The techichi, as a distinct breed, is extinct now, but its genes live on in the tiny chihuahua.

There is a theory that Spanish conquistadors brought with them a toy breed, like the Chinese crested dog. This mated with the techichi, in order to create a brand new hybrid, which eventually became the chihuahua. Others argue that images and other artifacts, including remains, have been found in Maya and Aztec archaeological sites. These obviously pre-date 1530, pointing to the fact that chihuahuas were in Mexico long before the Spanish came with their pets.

In 1904, the American Kennel Club officially registered the breed of toy dog, that the fashionable society ladies of Texas, Arizona and New Mexico were buying in Mexico. It was called the Chihuahua Dog, as in the breed from Chihuahua, though that quickly became shortened to a chihuahua. This is the moniker by which it is known throughout the world.

(For a moment there, it could have been called the Texas Dog or the Arizona Dog, which is where they were most prevalent in the USA, at the start of the 20th century. Today, they are stereotypically seen, in Mexico, as the pets of Manhattan's social elite, hence the dog's nickname here of 'New Yorker'.)


It is a popular misconception that chihuahuas have to be pampered by humans in order to survive. They were certainly the dogs of kings (the Aztec monarchs all owned one), but they have been known to form wild packs too. One such pack famously took up residence in the ruins of Tenochtitlán Palace, in Mexico City. Their ancestors had been abandoned after their Aztec owners, all members of the nobility, had been killed in the Spanish invasion of the 16th century.

Generations of this pack of chihuahuas lived there for three centuries, right up until the construction of the National Palace of Mexico, in 1850, near to the site. It's hard to build grand architecture, with dozens of 10" dogs yapping in defense of their patch, so, unfortunately, the wild chihuahuas were removed.


Chihuahuas are usually differentiated between two types: long-hair and smooth-hair. They are genetically exactly the same breed, but their fur is respectively long or short. (Smooth hair doesn't necessary mean 'smooth'. It can be velvetty or coarse, as long as it's short.) As show dogs, they shouldn't weigh more than 6lbs, though 2-4lbs is the ideal.

They are the favorite of the world's celebrities, with actresses and socialites in particular often seen with one under their arm. Famous chihuahua owners include: Marilyn Monroe, Sharon Osbourne, Paris Hilton, Hilary Duff and Cesar Millan. Chihuahuas often turn up in shows and in films, including 'Evil Con Carne', 'Invader Zim', 'Batman Returns', 'That's So Raven', 'The Soup', 'Legally Blonde' and 'Transformers'. They've also advertized Taco Bell. Let's not also forget that Ren Höek, the eponymous hero of 'Ren and Stimpy', is a chihuahua.

Boo Boo, the world's smallest, living, adult dog, is a chihuahua. She is 4" high, 6.5" long and weighs just 24oz. She can be found in Raceland, Kentucky, in the USA.

Endemic Species of Mexico

Endemic species are those creatures, birds, plants etc that are only found in one place in the wild. By their very nature, they are endangered. If there is only a population in one place, then something negatively effecting that habitat is going to threaten them with extinction. From volcanic bunnies to rare giant frogs, megadiverse Mexico has thousands of endemic species. Let us examine just a few.

Cozumel Thrasher

The Cozumel Thrasher is a mockingbird that lives only on the Island of Cozumel, off the Yucatán Peninsula. It is the most critically endangered bird in Mexico, as its population levels have dropped dangerously.

It's not alone in that status on the island. This is the sole habitat of several other birds and mammals, all of which are protected, as humanity tries to hold back the tide of extinction for them.

The Thrasher is special though, in that it's already been extinct and come back. Well, not quite. It was assumed to be gone from the world and was thus registered. Then, in 2004, someone spotted one in Cozumel and there has been a scramble to save it ever since.

Some think that it's already too late, as there has not been a reliable sighting of Cozumel Thrasher since 2008. If you're on the island, please keep your eyes peeled. There will be a lot of relieved ornithologists, if you find it.

Flat-headed Myotis

The bat is one of the smallest in the world. It weighs about the same as two peanuts held in your hand. It's also one of the rarest creatures to spot, even in its natural habitat in a valley in Coahuila. It was first seen in 1952, then not again until 1966, when there were two separate sightings. Then nothing. By 1996, it was declared extinct.

A team from the Program for the Conservation of Bats of Mexico weren't happy with this designation, so set out to try and find the miniature bat. That was in 1997. In 2006, they finally found eleven of them, in Los Pinos, Coahuila. You can read all about it in their article: 'The Flat-Headed Myotis is Alive & Well: 'Extinct' bat is rediscovered in northern Mexico'.

Great Peeping Frog

The Great Peeping Frog, aka Rana-fisgona Labios Blancos, is only found in the Zonas del Pedregal de San Ángel, just south of Mexico City. Its natural habitat is sub-tropical or tropical dry shrubland, thus it loves the lava fields of Volcán Xitle.

The problem for this frog was that it lives so close to Mexico's capital city. As the city expanded, it ate up more and more of its habitat, right up until the point when someone realised it was going to become extinct. Pedregal de San Ángel has now been made a nature reserve, with the Great Peeping Frog under the 'special protection' registration of the Mexican government.

Nevertheless, there are no natural corridors into the outside world and the population of these mighty frogs has dangerously decreased. Survey work is currently underway to determine how many are left and if they are going to survive as a species.

Guadalupe Fur Seal

You used to be able to find the fur seal all up the Pacific coast, from Mexico to Canada. However, their skin is so soft, dense, waterproof and lovely, who wouldn't want to make clothes out of it? As a result, they had been hunted out of existance, in the USA, by 1825. Now they can only be found on and around Mexico's Guadalupe Island, off the coast of Baja California.

Commercial hunting stopped, in Mexico, in 1894, when just seven remained. The Guadalupe Fur Seal population has now grown to approximately 10,000, so their status has been altered to 'near threatened', as opposed to practically extinct. They remain listed as 'endangered' in the USA though. Guadalupe Island has been declared a seal sanctuary.

There was a bit of drama concerning one recently. A stray young male Guadalupe Fur Seal washed up on Torrey Pines State Beach, in the USA, in a terrible condition. He was starving and suffering from both hypoglycemia and hypothermia. He was taken to SeaWorld, in San Diego, where he was nursed back to full health. Nicknamed Buddy, the seal was then returned to the Pacific Ocean. As he was fitted with a tracking device, it is known that he immediately headed home and appears to be going strong. (Guadalupe Fur Seal Released Into the Ocean.)

Mexican Prairie Dog

Southern Coahuila and northern San Luis Potosi are the only places where the Mexican Prairie Dog might be found. However, they are another species which has made it onto the 'endangered' register. This time it is because they have been historically considered to be agricultural pests. Therefore ferrets kept being sent down their 'towns' (subterranean habitat of the prairie dogs) to kill them.

The 'towns' generally have a funnel-like entrance, leading into a sloping passageway up to 100ft underground. Leading off this tunnel are little rooms, all dug out by the prairie dogs. Inside them, the prairie dogs sleep and store grasses, herbs and other tasty items of food.

Since 1994, the prairie dogs, now living in less than 4% of their original habitat, have been listed as 'endangered'. Two organizations, Pronatura Noreste and Profauna, have taken it upon themselves to save them. They have been highly successful in securing the protection of 42,000 acres (170 km²) of grasslands for the prairie dogs. This involved getting a lot of signatures from private land owners and those using communal areas. It is hoped that the initiative will see the survival of these creatures.

Querétaro Pocket Gopher

In the north-eastern corner of Querétaro state, there is the Sierra del Doctor. Nestled deep in this remote, tiny mountain range is the Querétaro Pocket Gopher.

Very little is known about this small mammal. It lives underground and it is noctural. But there are so few of them, in such a remote location, that most research relies on hearsay. The locals know all about them. They see the evidence in mounds of earth, under which the pocket gophers have been burrowing.

For many farmers, they are incorrectly seen as pests, despite the fact that there is some evidence that the pocket gophers are responsible for the richness of the soil up there. All that digging has the effect of aerating it, while their droppings fertilize the it, deep underground.

San José Island Kangaroo Rat

As the name suggests, the San José Island Kangaroo Rat can only be found on San José Island, off the coast of Baja California, where it is steadily being eaten out of existence by feral cats. There are very few adults left now and they all live in very close proximity. These rats are, therefore, listed as Critically Endangered.

In addition to the feral cat problem, there's also the habitat destruction by wild goats and human development. The Mexican government, fearful of an actual extinction here, have stepped in to protect the immediate vicinity of the rats' home. They live in open grasslands, close to a sandy beach.

For the record, kangaroo rats aren't related to the marsupial. But they do tend to hop, instead of the scurrying of an average rat, hence the name.

Tres Marias Raccoon

It is thought that the ancestors of the Tres Marias Raccoon was just the same as any other common Mexican raccoon. But sometime in the past, the raccoons got trapped or taken to an archipelago, just off the coast of Nayarit. The Islas Marias became their home and, without contact with the mainland, the Tres Marias Raccoon evolved into an entirely different family.

This raccoon is quite large, compared to its mainland cousins, with an angular skull also setting it apart. Scientists are still arguing over whether it is a separate species or simply an interbred stray family. No conservation efforts are currently in practise.

Unfortunately, it's on the brink of extinction, having been listed as 'endangered'. Only 250 known adults survive on two of the three islands; while they've disappeared completely from Isla María Magdalena. The largest number exist on Isla María Madre, where the islanders are still killing them as pests.

Volcano Rabbit

Stand in Mexico City and look to the horizon. There are three large volcanos (not all are active), upon the slopes of which live the world's rarest bunny. The Volcano Rabbit loves the warm soil. In particular, it loves the leaves that grow on zacatón grasses, which only grow where there is thermal heating.

They live at an altitude of 9,186-13,943ft (2800-4250 meters), in an area of dense pine forest. They congregate in families of just two to five and emerge at dawn or dusk. The rest of the time, they are deep underground in their warrens.

The Volcano Rabbit is endangered, though, surprisingly, that has nothing to do with lava. The zacatón grass has been over-grazed, because natural corridors to other areas have been cut off by human development. In addition, the rabbit has been used for target practice. There are now laws in place to stop both things happening again.

Yucatán Wren

The Yucatán wren is only found on the northern strip of the Yucatán Peninsula. This is an area of dense mangrove shrubbery, right on the Caribbean coast, which is a perfect habitat for them.

It is always dangerous, in terms of the survival of a species, to live in just one locality. The poor Yucatán wren had the misfortune to choose an area just north of Cancún for its home. As the demand grows for holiday accommodation, and homes for those serving tourists in all of the attractions, the borders of Cancún have crept ever northwards. Its now encroaching upon Yucatán wren territory.

Things aren't critical yet. The wren is listed as 'near threatened' and planners have been quick to react to conservation concerns. Ría Celestún, San Felipe and Río Lagartos are all designated national parks, where the Yucatán wren can live in protection.

The Surreal World of Leonora Carrington

It was a sad day in Mexico City, this weekend, as people gathered at the Palacio de Bellas Artes to honor Leonora Carrington.

The great Surrealist artist and prolific author died of complications following pneumonia, at 94 years old, on May 25th, 2011. She had lived and worked in Mexico for most of her life.

Leonora was born in Britain, educated in Italy, then moved to France. She had fled to Spain during World War Two and been institutionalized as insane. She escaped with the help of a friend and spent time in Portugal, before making her way across the Atlantic into the Americas, with the help of a Mexican diplomat. Another Mexican, the poet Renato Leduc, married her, in order to get her out of Portugal and into the New World. Though they dissolved the union as soon as they were here.

She lived in New York, USA, for a while, before moving on to Mexico City, Mexico. Here her wanderings and flights came to a halt. She had found somewhere that she could call home.

She arrived in Mexico in 1942. It was here that she married her third husband, Emericko Weisz. Her two children were born in Mexico City. It was here that she settled and was able to produce her greatest portfolio of work. To those who knew her, it was in Mexico when she was finally happy.


'The Recital of Dreams'
But all of that is Leonora the woman. What most people look for is Leonora the artist. It is this that made her world famous. Christies sell her work for $1.5m; she's received a stream of awards and accolades, including a knighthood from her native Britain and the USA's National Prize for Arts. Salvador Dalí called her 'a most important woman artist', while Max Ernst left his wife to marry her.

The poet, Homero Aridjis, called her, "The last great living Surrealist... a living legend."

Her lifetime love of art had not seemed likely to result in world fame. For a start, she was a woman and, in the male-orientated art world, woman tended to be the models. Nevertheless, Leonora managed to persuade her family to let her study at the Academy of Art, in Florence, Italy, and the Chelsea School of Art, in London, England. It was through a fellow student there that Leonora met Max Ernst and entered the realm of Surrealism.


'Self-Portrait'
She was 19 and he was 46. They described themselves as soul mates and ran away to Paris to be together. Max divorced his wife and married Leonora, who embraced his art as much as the man himself.

She soon had exhibitions in both Paris and Amsterdam, while she applied herself to living the life of a Surrealist woman. In one notable incident, she cut off the hair of house-guests while they slept, then served it back to them, in an omelette, for breakfast.

The couple were living in Provence, France, when the Second World War erupted over Europe. As a German, Max Ernst was immediately arrested by the French, as a 'foreign alien'. He was soon released, but then France was occupied by the Germans and he was arrested again. This time it was for creating 'degenerate art' and he disappeared for several weeks.

Leonora fled to Spain, where she had a nervous breakdown in the Madrid offices of the British Embassy. She was taken to an asylum, in Santander, Spain, where her medication (later banned) caused spasms and hallucinations. In her biography, she explained that she was 'rescued by her nanny who arrived in a submarine'.


'Labyrinth'
In reality, her father had sent a business contact to bust her out and sneak her onto a boat into South Africa. She gave him the slip and jumped into a taxi. Then Leonora said the first thing which came to mind, "Take me to the Mexican Embassy!" Which is how she came to be helped by Mexican diplomats and briefly in a marriage of convenience with Renato Leduc.

Leonora sorted her head out in Mexico City. Here no-one was saying, 'but you're only a woman', because the like of Frida Kahlo and Remedios Varo had already forged those pathways. She was free to spend the rest of her life creating spectacular works of art.

The legacy of this can be seen all over the city, in free-standing public sculptures.


'Los Monjes (The Monks)', in Mexico City


'How Doth the Crocodile?' and 'No Hay Lugar (No Place Anymore)', in Mexico City
There are directions on finding all 15 pieces, in Mexico City, here. There is also a permanent collection of her art at the Museo Nacional de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art), in Chapultepec Park.

She was a seeker and a searcher. In her work, she always sought to define moments when one plane of consciousness blends with another.
Whitney Chadwick, 'Women Artists and the Surrealist Movement' (1991)

Leonora's genius found its expression in tapestries, collages, written articles, stories, essays and poetry, as well as the painting and sculptures. She penned nine books, and was featured in many others.


'Temple of the World'
There have been thousands of articles, theses and books written about this marvel of the art world. Leonora Carrington had a stark message for those intent on intellectualizing her paintings, "You're wasting your time." Or, perhaps more eloquently put, in her book, 'The Hearing Trumpet', "Darling, don’t be philosophical, it doesn’t suit you, it makes your nose red."

Leonora Carrington was one of Mexico's greatest artists. She will be missed.