The Culture and Controversy of Cuicuilco

Mexico City is built on the remains of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán. Before Tenochtitlán, there was another ancient city, the oldest in the entire valley. Cuicuilco was Mexico's Pompeii; a thriving, important place, with pyramids pre-dating Chichén Itzá and Teotihuacan, and a population of 20,000 people. Then the Xitle volcano erupted.



Parts of Cuicuilco are still visible now, but most is under the lava; and Mexico City is creeping on top of the remains.

In Aztec times, the lava plains were a wilderness. Miscreants were banished there, to die of exposure or to be bitten by the rattle snakes, which lived in the area then. Today, this is El Pedregal de San Ángel, or simply El Pedregal, an upper class residential district of Mexico City. Mansions cling to the mountainside, overlooking the major northern boulevards of the capital; hemmed in, to the east, by the University.

In the 1940s, this entire developement was designed and built by Luis Barragán. His vision was to create modernist houses in harmony with the landscape. Outcrops of volcanic rock, frozen in time since its post-eruption cooling, became garden walls; smoother plains became walkways and roads.



He called this the Gardens of El Pedregal. Experts have called it 'a turning point in Mexican modern architecture'. The complex was accessed through the Plaza de las Fuentes (Plaza of the Fountains), with fountains that intermittantly cast water high into the air. Prominent artists were brought in to add their talent to the aesthetics of the place. Chucho Reyes advised on colors; Mathias Goeritz created sculptures; Xavier Guerrero allowed the use of his specially formulated, rust-free paint. But the houses themselves were pure Barragán.



This is where the great and the good of the Mexican upper classes lived and still live. The years have lost much of the original architecture, under layers of expansion and home extensions. Mansions got larger and even the iconic Plaza de las Fuentes is now just a side-street, edged with sprawling housing plots.

However, those interested in how it once was can visit Mexico City's Museo Nacional de Arquitectura (National Museum of Architecture), in the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes, on Avenida Juárez and Eje Central, in Lázaro Cárdenas. There is a permanent exhibition of Barragán's El Pedregal.

The Gardens of El Pedregal isn't the only modern development crowding in and on top of Cuicuilco. In 1997, Mexico made legal history, when members of the public sued the president and other dignitaries, over the construction of a shopping center and entertainment complex there. (Cuicuilco: Public Protection of Mexican Cultural Patrimony in an Archaeological Zone.) Building ultimately went ahead, but it left safeguards in law against future destruction of the site.



So what is all of the fuss about? Cuicuilco was certainly the oldest human settlement in the Valley of Mexico; it is possibly one of the most ancient in the entire country. The foundations of the city were laid around 700 BCE. It is believed that, at the time, it was the most important civic-religious center in the Mexican Highlands. Beneath the lava there are pyramids, which could well dwarf those on the surface. Some have theorized that they might have been the largest man-made pyramids in the world.



Little is known about the people who built Cuicuilco, though the exchange of trade goods shows that they interacted with the Olmec. Archaeology has pointed towards a hierarchical society, with chiefs at the top and slaves at the bottom. These were a deeply religious people, who buried their dead with ceramic grave goods. Skulls have been found, with teeth filed into sharp spikes. These were a people fearsome to behold.

The artwork from Cuicuilco was exquisite. A new era of ceramics was born here, starting around 600 BCE. Their pottery was unique to the age and highly prized in distant cities, amongst other tribes. This wasn't merely bowls and cups. They were idols made in the image of deities, demonstrating remarkable craftsmanship.


An artist's impression of Cuicuilco in its heyday

Their city must have been spectacular. Terraces, plazas and many residences have been uncovered. They had engineering knowledge - irrigation ditches fed their fields and brought water from the lake into the city; canals ran like arteries through their streets. There is evidence of warfare or attack. Fortifications surrounded them.

But mostly what would have been seen, from a vantage point on the highlands, were the oval and conical shapes of the farmer's cottages. For miles around the ceremonial center, there were the fields. Corn, maize, beans, squash and tomatoes were amongst the crops cultivated here. Smaller temples, some with up to five altars, dotted the landscape between the massed agriculture.

Cuicuilco sprawled, the mega-city of its day, much like its modern counterpart, Mexico City. Thousands of people were attracted into its midst, generations of them adding and building and expanding. Their gods grew and changed in prominence. By the end, the fire deities had presidence; but that didn't stop the volcano erupting.


Eruption of Xitle by Gonzales Camarena
Xitle blew twice, once in 50 BCE and once in 400 CE. This cinder cone volcano still stands above Mexico City, in the Ajusco range to the south-east. The pyroclastic flow of lava, from both major eruptions, covered substantial parts of the city of Cuicuilco. The final one led to its abandonment. From hereon, the culture of the population can be seen spread out across Mexico; while the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán was founded further down in the valley, beside and upon the lake.

For those campaigning against further modern development of the area, the importance of the history is at the forefront. This was one of the most prominent early cultural centers in Meso-America; yet too few digs have been untaken by archaeologists.

However, there is a small, but very vocal group who want work to stop because it's disturbing and obscuring the lava plains. They have pointed out that examining the extent of the previous eruptions might be of vital consideration for future crisis management. After all, if Xitle blows again now, Mexico's capital city is now right in its path. The homes of many of Mexico's richest residents, including the President, is on top of the area buried before.

There are also some who say that the Cuicuilco people never quite went away. There are pervasive stories of the ghosts of priests and sacrificial victims, in the homes of those living atop the lava plains. Perhaps they have an urgent message, from personal experience, for those intent on ignoring the huge swathes of volcanic rock. Or maybe they are just stories.



Cuicuilco is open to the public, as both an archaeological site of historical importance and a nature reserve. As well as the interest in the site itself, its heights afford a stunning view over Mexico City. Tourists and locals alike are often found strolling across it, climbing onto the summit of its remaining pyramid.

During the spring equinox (around March 21st), there is a sudden boom in visitors. The area becomes once again a place of religious pilgrimage, as people gather to greet the dawn. The sun's rays, on that morning, from the top of the pyramid is believed to refresh the spirit and bring blessings upon their lives in the following year.



Whatever your beliefs, Cuicuilco is a beautiful place to meander upon. It is recommended to anyone visiting Mexico City.

Chichén Itzá in Light and Sound

Chichén Itzá is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. It is instantly recognizable in publications around the globe, as one of the places that you must be in your lifetime. Millions of people do just that, with Chichén Itzá one of the top tourist draws in Mexico. Not to mention the fact that the Maya ruins have featured in films and music videos, as well as countless documentaries.

For most, the trip to see this famous pyramid occurs during the daytime. The favored time, for those who can make, is early morning, when the gates first open. This is when it's cool and there are fewer people around. The vast majority will arrive mid-morning, when the buses empty from Cancún and the other resorts. (And yes, that does include our bus!) How many of them wish that they could experience this atmospheric site by night?

It is, of course, possible to do just that! Once the sun goes down, the Light and Sound show begins at Chichén Itzá. It is a simple affair. The history and other interesting facts are explained, while each of the amazing structures are lit up with colored lights. Sometimes shapes are projected onto the pyramids, just for a bit of variety.


Kukulkan, the serpent God, illuminated by lights. This only happens naturally at the equinoxes.
However, the main point is that you are there, at night, able to survey the wealth of Maya architectural brilliance, without battling the heat of the sun and the press of fellow tourists. Some details are sharply illuminated, in the lights, that might not have been apparent behind sunglasses, in the glare of daylight.

Those with tickets to see it are given headphones, so that they may hear the commentary in their native language. Those who understand Spanish have no need, as they have the live version.

This isn't a massive show, with fireworks and dancers. There are some reviews on the internet, which express disappointment, because they somehow assumed that there would be. It is merely an alternative way of enjoying Chichén Itzá in comfort and the coolness of night.

There are some bonus features too, rendered by location, rather than the event's organization. Fundamentally, you are deep within the Yucatán jungle. When the lights are dimmed, then there really is no light pollution in the skies. If you thought you'd seen stars before, then this truly will be a revelation. Every inch of the night sky is usually covered in a blanket of stars and planets. It's clear enough to see satellites moving around, as they do essential research for humanity.

For a calm, sedate, beautiful experience of Chichén Itzá, this could well be the tour for you.


Chichén Itzá
The ancient capital of the Maya World, seen by day, then revisited in light and sound by night.

Filmed in Mexico

Mexico has always been a great country in which to shoot films. Not only has it got its own thriving movie industry, but it is very close to Hollywood. A short drive, or an even shorter plane journey, can see a whole cast and crew coming south of the border. They are all taking advantage of the megadiverse scenery and the wide open spaces. Everything from deserts to rainforests to oceans to subterranean worlds to sprawling urban locations can be found here. Of course, it helps enormously that average production costs are up to 30% lower than in the USA, Canada and Europe.

According to The Internet Movie Database, some 16,218 movies have been filmed in Mexico. This has been going on since the very dawn of Hollywood. Some of the scenes are rather surprising. For example, who guessed that the climatic sinking scenes, in 'Titanic', were filmed in Rosarito; or that the same location doubled as Pearl Harbour? We couldn't possibly cover all of the movies here. However, here is a taste of what Mexico's scenery helped bring to the silver screen. Please do comment with any of your favorites that we missed.

Acapulco, Mexico:

'Fun in Acapulco' (1963): Elvis Presley did go to Acapulo to film this.



'Licence to Kill' (1989): Sanchez's home is actually the real life Villa Arabesque, on the di Portanova Estate, near Las Brisas in Acapulco.

'Limitless' (2011): The cliff dive happened here.

Cancún:

'The Real Cancún' (2003): Filmed in and around the real Cancún.

Catemaco, Veracruz:

'Apocalypto' (2006): The rainforest scenes were filmed here.

Chichén Itzá:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Coach Sully catches up with Brogan and Wyler. The Sacred Cenote, which plays a prominent role in the film, is located at Chichén Itzá.

Cozumel:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Brogan found Wyler.

Isla de Mujeres:

'Against All Odds' (1984): The Cozumel scenes were actually shot on Isla de Mujeres.

'Licence to Kill' (1989): This is where James Bond and Felix Leiter find Sanchez. It's also where the underwater scenes were filmed.



Mexicali, Baja California:

'The Game' (1997): Van Orton is left here by gamesters.

Mexico City:

Home of Estudios Churubusco (Churubusco Studios), where films have been made since 1945. Amongst those known internationally are: The Fugitive (1946), Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1968), Amityville II: The Possession (1982), Rambo: First Blood Pt II (1984), Licence to Kill ( 1988), The Hunt for Red October (1989), Total Recall (1990), Romeo and Juliet (1996), The Mask of Zorro (1998) and 'Resident Evil: Extinction' (2006), plus many more besides.

'Licence to Kill' (1989): Much of Isthmus City is really Mexico City. The ornate post office is real. It's Mexico's City main post office (Oficina Central de Correos, Calle Tacuba 1 y Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas). The 'El Presidente', where James Bond and Pam Bouvier spend the night, is really Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, though the exterior is Biblioteca de la Banca de Mexico (Library of the Bank of Mexico). The City Theatre doubles as Sanchez's office, while the 'Isthmus Casino' is usually a restaurant called 'Casino Espanol'. Just outside the city, the Otomi Ceremonial Center was used as the set of the Olimpatec Meditation Institute.

Total Recall (1990): Many of the scenes were filmed in and around Mexico City. There is supposedly still blood splatter stains, at Metro Chabacano, on the Tacubaya-Col. Puebla Line, where the escalator scene was filmed. The lobby and penthouse of Hotel Nikko Mexico were also used; as was Metro Insurgentes subway station, in the Glorieta de los Insurgentes shopping mall.

Free Willy (1993): Some of the city scenes were filmed in Mexico City.

Nayarit:

'Limitless' (2011): Some of the tropical party scenes were filmed at Punta de Mita and on Isla Marietas.



Puerto Vallarta:

'Limitless' (2011): Some of the party scenes were filmed in Bahia de Banderas, Puerto Vallarta, including the reckless driving through the streets.

'Night of the Iguana' (1963): Much of the film was recorded here. The cast, including Deborah Kerr, Ava Gardner, Sue Lyon, Emilio “El Indio” Fernández and Richard Burton all stayed in the town, along with director John Huston, and were visited often by the author, Tennessee Williams. This took place just as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were starting their relationship.

'Predator' (1987): Filmed in Mismaloya, near Puerto Vallarta. Some of the props have been left there as a permanent tourist attraction.

Rosarito, Baja California:

Home of Baja Studios, which was originally built to film James Cameron's 'Titanic'. Amongst the films recorded here are: Titanic (1997); Tomorrow Never Dies (1997); Deep Blue Sea (1999); In Dreams (1999); Pearl Harbour (2001); The Fast and the Furious (2001); Life of Pi (2002); Master and Commander:The Far Side of the World (2003) and Jumper (2008).

Titanic (1997): Vast tank built here was where much of the sinking footage was filmed.



Tomorrow Never Dies (1997): Used the tank built for 'Titanic' for the sea landing scene.

Rumorosa Pass, Mexicali:

'Licence to Kill' (1989): The climatic car chase, nominally on 'Paso El Diablo', was filmed at the Rumorosa Pass, 50 miles west of Mexicali.

San Felipe, Baja California:

'Quantum of Solace' (2008): The dogfight that ensues when James Bond and Camille survey Quantum's land acquisition by air was filmed here.

Tulum:

'Against All Odds' (1984): This is where Brogan and Wyler finally get together.

Yucatán, Mexico

'The Cave' (2005): The flooded cavern system was partially a composite of several cenotes on the Yucatán peninsula. The scenic shots were in Mexico, while the action shots were in a controlled environment, namely a large tank in Romania. There was also some open water footage. The crew were on the Yucatán for five weeks capturing all this pretty scenery.

Is the World's Largest Pyramid in Mexico?

Which is the world's largest pyramid? According to the Guinness Book of Records, the answer is the Great Pyramid of Cholula, in Puebla, Mexico. However, the answer might not be as simple as it sounds. It all depends upon your definition of 'large' and, indeed, your definition of a 'pyramid'. Guatemala and Egypt are both making alternate claims.


What do you mean, you can't see a pyramid? All of it is the pyramid! It got covered over with soil and turf, then the Spanish built a church on the summit.
The issue seems to be with the fact that pyramids were built differently by different people. The Egyptians have a base with steep, sloping sides, which then meet at a point at the top. The Mexicans and Guatemalans both have pyramids built by people from similar cultures. The magnificent structures here, known as Traidic Pyramids, have tiered terraces or else those which rise up into a single platform, with a building on top of that.


(l-r) Egyptian style and Mexican style
Guatemala's El Mirador is the tallest pyramid in the world, but its base isn't as wide as Mexico's Cholula. Then there are those who argue that you cannot include the entire complex in your calculations. In the case of stepped pyramids, then only those slopes fundamental to supporting the top should be counted as the main structure.

If this is so, then the majority of both Cholula and El Mirador's sites have to be discounted. Then the winner, by volume of pyramid, is the Great Pyramid of Khufu, in Egypt.

A strip-away model and an artist's impression of Cholula in its heyday may help illustrate the debate. In order for the Great Pyramid of Khufu to be the largest, then only the part immediately beneath Cholula's church can be calculated. The rest has to be considered merely a platform base.




It is difficult to get a sense of scale from pictures alone. It may be helpful to point out that, even if the base is discounted, then Cholula would still make it as the third largest pyramid in the world. Once the platform is added again, as part of the whole structure, then it positively dwarves those at Giza, in Egypt.

		Cholula with base		Cholula without base		El Mirador with base		El Mirador without base		Great Pyramid of Khufu
Length		450m (1475ft)		295m (968ft)		310m (1017ft)		* See note		230m (755ft)
Depth		450m (1475ft)		270m (886ft)		590m (1936ft)		* See note		230m (755ft)
Height		66m (217ft)		55m (180ft)		105m (345ft)		70m (230ft)		139m (455ft)
Volume		4.45 million m³		1.8 million m³		2.8 million m³		0.9 million m³		2.58 million m³

* El Mirador has a series of 35 small pyramids on top of its massive, terraced platforms. It is therefore difficult to calculate the length and depth of them, as there would be 35 different measurements to add here. None of them would be bigger than Cholula nor Khufu.

The height has been calculated from La Danta Temple, which is the tallest structure there. La Danta is the largest groups of pyramids there and has been calculated with 300m (984ft) in length and the same in depth. But if they are being judged as a collective, then all of the Giza pyramids should be grouped together too. That would elevate Egypt undoubtedly as the largest. (Thank you to Andy Robinson for highlighting this point.)


Entrance to Cholula
So is the largest pyramid in the world in Mexico? Naturally we are going to go with the Guinness Book of Records here, as we are proud Mexicans. The rest of you have to make your own minds up, about whether you are including platforms, as part of the overall structure.

J.Lo Rocks Chichén Itzá

Jennifer Lopez - dancer, singer, actress and 'American Idol' panellist - released her new album, 'Love?', today. It follows the release of her single, 'I'm Into You', which features Lil Wayne. All of this would have created a big enough buzz in Mexico, but there was something extra too. The video for this song, which was premiered last night on 'Today', was filmed in Chichén Itzá and Tulum!

J.Lo was here during the first weekend in April, where she stayed in the $1100 a night Pavarotti suite, at the Mayaland hotel, overlooking the ruins. (Guess who had previously stayed there? I wonder if it will now be renamed the Pavarotti and J.Lo suite...) She arrived with an entourage that included dancers, as well as everyone needed behind the scenes. Local Maya people, from the nearby village of Piste, were hired to carry equipment into Chichén Itzá.


On April 2, 2011, her crew were allowed unprecedented access to the Maya ruins, in order to shoot the video. It's all part of the Federal Ministry of Tourism of Mexico's policy to promote 'Tierra Azteca'. Celebrities from the world of arts, culture and sports are getting permission to film in such places. It all helps with demonstrating to the world that these attractions exist.

J.Lo was openly thrilled about being there. She Tweeted a couple of times during the day, from the set:

Excited about my day tomorrow in Chichen Itza!!! First day of shooting the video for #imintoyou... I'll send u pics tomorrow #LOVE? (April 2nd, 2011)

A closer look. Are the earrings #tous much? Hahahaha just kidding. Thanks for the #LOVE? !!!! http://plixi.com/p/88956630


(April 2nd, 2011)

Officially released 'teaser' footage turned up on YouTube shortly after filming at Chichén Itzá had closed.





After leaving Chichén Itzá, the party moved onto Turtle Beach, in Tulum. Here William Levy, the Telenovela heart throb, met up with them, to play J.Lo's love interest in the video. They had to wait until nightfall, in order to film the latter half of the footage. Against the backdrop of a moonlit ocean, some steamy scenes played out.



J.Lo was in Mexico until April 4th. She Tweeted, upon leaving:

Hello #LOVE?RS!!! Leaving beautiful Mexico... Great shoot, can't wait to share it with you!! #imintoyou (April 4th, 2011)

Finally, here is the final production:




Chichén Itzá
Various tours, to suit every wallet or time-frame, to the most famous of all the Maya ruins.

Cenotes

Eden must have looked like this. Little bubbles of paradise glimpsed from the ground. There are no natural lakes on the Yucatan. The porous bedrock can't support them, as it acts like a sieve sucking the water down into the hidden caverns. But there are the cenotes and they are wonderful.


Cenote (pronounced Sen-o-tay) is a Yucatan Mayan word meaning any sinkhole with accessible groundwater. For thousands of years, these cenotes have been the wells, providing water for the villages and towns dotted around them. They are formed because the bedrock here is limestone. Rainwater hitting limestone is a little like trying to hold water in a colander. It seeps through the bottom and drips down below. Eventually it will hit sturdier rock and will be allowed to pool. Hence the lakes, in the Yucatan, all being underground.

Yet, as the water filters through the rock, it dissolves it, undermines it or erodes it. In some areas, this finally becomes too much and the roof collapses, exposing the pool to the open air. Thus the cenote is formed around crystal clear water, filtered by its slow passage through the rock. For the local human population, it's a source of life, spirituality and entertainment.


There are thousands of cenotes on the Yucatan Peninsula. Some are tiny, some are vast; some are self-contained bowls, some are the access points to a sprawling subterranean maze of rivers and caverns; some are shallow, some are deep; some are major tourist attractions, fitted with piers, springboards, rappel lines and all the comfort amenities, and some are hidden away in people's backyards. More are discovered all the time. Building work and landscaping can suddenly uncover a cenote. They are usually a welcome addition to the scenery.

For generations of locals and tourists alike, cenotes are a spectacularly beautiful place to refresh, after a trek through the jungle or a visit to the Maya ruins. Not only is it shaded in a cenote, but the water is deliciously cool. Some, like Ik Kill, near to Chichen Itza, are always full of bathers. They enter with a look of serene relief, then bob about in the water, with smiles on their faces. It's the purity of the water; the beauty of the scenery; and the sense of the sacred, in this hidden world.


Of course, sacred is right, because many of these cenotes meant more than just accessible drinking water and a place to bathe for the Maya people. In many cenotes, votive offerings have been found. The legends and histories also make it clear that, for the ancient Maya, these cenotes acted as holy places. They were the natural cathedrals.

Sometimes, this religious feeling had darker overtones. In the Cenote Sagrado (Sacred Sinkhole), within the grounds of Chichen Itza, there have been found ancient human bones. This was where human sacrifice was offered to the gods of the underworld. Elsewhere on the Yucatan, in Sahcaba, a whole underwater complex of Maya temples were discovered in 2008. It was believed that the Maya viewed this as an access to the land of the dead.



If you are in Mexico, please don't pass up the chance to swim in a cenote. It is a sublime experience that will remain with you for years - a little piece of paradise on Earth.

Mexico Scores Well in Tourism Report

Mexico is the fourth most desirable holiday destination in the Americas. It ranks 43rd, out of a panel of 139 countries, on the world stage. Moreover, the country's tourist credentials actually rose eight places since 2009. Furthermore, Mexico placed 13th, in terms of human, cultural and natural resources. All of this is known from an international tourism report. Its conclusions are highly influential in the future planning of tourism in any country.


The Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Report 2011 was released this week. Penned by the World Economic Forum (WEF), it assesses and ranks countries based on a host of data. It is aimed at business investors rather than tourists; providing expert analyses on the wisdom of investing capital in a country's tourism industry. Though, of course, what is good for the money-makers naturally has to be fantastic for those on vacation. If it wasn't, then tourists would stop coming and the investors would lose their profits.

Only the USA, Canada and Barbados have beaten Mexico, as attractive tourist destinations, in the Americas. It is a placement that has thrilled Tourism Secretary, Gloria Guevara Manzo, "The report demonstrates that Mexico is moving in a positive direction. Our country has incomparable character, culture and charm that we want to share with the world and it is rewarding to see that it is recognized and appreciated."


The panel looks at 14 categories, when evaluating the tourism industry of any country. They dig down, into the nitty-gritty, with several sub-categories within those headings. The final assessment is based on it all.

Mexico did well in several categories, with the highlights listed here (all rankings out of 139, in a league of countries):

* FIRST! Mexico ranked number one, as the country with the largest presense of major car rental companies. Ok, not massively exciting, but it did boost the country's standing in the 'Tourism Infrastructure' category. It's also very reassuring those those wishing to hire a car here.

* FIFTH! Mexico was in the top five, as the 'number of World Heritage cultural sites' were assessed. The country boasts 33 such sites, including one of the New Wonders of the World, Chichén Itzá.


* NINTH! The megadiverse nature of Mexico's flora and fauna earned it a top ten ranking in the sub-category of 'Total Known Species', in the category of 'Natural Resources'. But biologists and nature-lovers have known this for years.

* TENTH! Some of the most stunning landscapes in the world are in Mexico, including Copper Canyon, Chevé Cave and El Triunfo. This has resulted in another top ten ranking, in the category of 'Number of World Heritage Natural Sites'.


The country's transport system was praised. The number of domestic airline seats was ranked 11th, with international airline seats trailing only shortly behind at 22nd out of the 139 countries inspected. The number of operating airlines was ranked at 26th. Also in the top thirty were fuel and hotel prices.

In the top forty were attributes like the health and education of the Mexican people, plus their welcoming nature towards foreign visitors. Cultural resources also scored highly. It was ranked 18th, in the 'Creative Industries Exports' (souvenirs to you and me) category; and 24th in the 'Number of International Fairs and Exhibitions'.


Due to the target audience of the report, many of the categories were concerned primarily with business interests. Mexico proved its willingness for external scrutiny, by ranking 12th in the category of 'providing monthly/quarterly T&T data' and 15th in the competitiveness of the same data. It scored 22, 23 and 35 respectively, in the categories of 'prevalence of foreign ownership', 'openness of bilateral Air Service Agreements' and 'time required to start a business'. All very lovely enticements for the prospective investors.

In fairness, there was some criticism too. Safety and security both let Mexico down, but these are the very issues that the Mexican government are quick to address. Secretary Guevara stated, "We have made real and sustained progress in making Mexico safe and secure, and will continue to devote our resources to ensuring that it remains a top destination."

It isn't all talk. With bad newspaper headlines continuing to sully Mexico's reputation over its borders, this season has seen some of the highest levels of tourist security in Mexico's history. Spring Breakers, in Cancun, were met by 'tourism advisors' (ie semi-plain clothed members of Mexico's military), who guided them past the Timeshare touts, into the ranks of authorised, safe taxi firms. It is hard to miss the highly visible patrolling of crowded beaches. Cancun has always been safe, but now it looks safe too!


The full report may be downloaded from here (pdf). The Mexico specific pages can be downloaded here (pdf) - find Mexico in the list, under 'Country Profiles'.

Spring Equinox at Mexico's Ancient Monuments

It is nearly dawn on the Spring Equinox and the crowds gather at the foot of El Castillo. They are about witness the descent of the God on Earth, as He passes down the steps and into the ground beneath. It is guaranteed. It is seen in Chichén Itzá every year and it is about to happen right now. An expectant murmur passes through, then a pause and suddenly an almighty roar of exaltation.


Spring Equinox at Chichén Itzá
It is only at the equinox that a stunning piece of Maya architectural genius becomes apparent. The side of the steps were fashioned in such a manner that, when the sun shines on them in a certain way, the feathered serpent God, Kukulkan, can be clearly seen. He is picked out in light and shade, with his snake-like back undulating down the steps. This can only be seen at dawn on the equinox.

Thousands traditionally congregate at the base of El Castillo (aka the Temple of Kukulkan) to witness this. Many will have been there all night, in a vigil, waiting. They are not all Mexicans. In fact, the vast majority are spiritual tourists, who have come to join their Mexican brothers and sisters, in this awe-inspiring event.

Kukulkan arrives to raptuous cheers; though many stand in silent meditation. All are allowing the calm, positive energy of the moment to penetrate their spirits. Traditional dancing and music soon turns the religious into a fiesta, as such things often do in Mexico.

Meanwhile, NTD TV have reported upon the events in Teotihuacan, near Mexico City: 'Thousands Flock to Mexico's "Pyramid of the Sun" to Welcome Spring Equinox'.



The Spring (or Vernal) Equinox occurs when day and night are exactly equal in length; there are twelve hours between sunset and dawn. The Earth, as it orbits around the sun, also rocks back and forth on its pole. (Imagine a spinning top, swaying as it spins.) During Winter Solstice (mid December) our side of the planet is tipped away from the sun (less light/heat = winter); during Summer Solstice (mid June) the hemisphere is tipped towards the sun (more light/heat = summer). During the equinoxes, we are at the mid-point between the two (equal light/heat = spring and autumn).

Spring Equinox was important to the ancient tribes of Mexico. It was the time when they planted their crops, safe in the knowledge that winter was finally over. Autumn Equinox was the signal that everything should be harvested, before it was ruined. This is why so much of the architecture incorporates features that tell onlookers when the equinoxes are occurring.

An estimated 460,000 visitors arrived at twelve of Mexico's ancient monuments, at dawn on March 21st, 2011. The actual equinox had occurred late the night before, but it was the dawn sun that would provide the first visible sign of it, without the aid of hi-tech equipment.


Spring Equinox at Teotihuacan
This is obviously an annual event, so everyone was ready for it. Representatives from the emergency services and National Anthropology and History Institute (INAH) meet months in advance, in order to co-ordinate their roles, so that the crowds can be safely managed. For example, so many people arrived at Teotihuacan, this year, that each had to queue for three hours, in order to spend just ten minutes at the summit of the Pyramid of the Sun. This had been anticipated and the human resources were on hand to ensure that this happened in good cheer.

However, there is concern that so many visitors are placing an unusual strain upon the monuments themselves. This year, for the first time, INAH issued rules, such as the prohibition of food, alcohol, barbecues, backpacks, chairs, umbrellas or pet in the vicinity of the ruins.

Meanwhile, local Pagan groups privately agreed not to climb upon those pyramids, which are open to the public. Antonio Vazquez, a Brujo Mayor (High Priest/Chief Witch), released a statement that his coven would be performing their ceremony near to the Pyramid of the Sun, rather than on it.


Spring Equinox at Tulum
The Spring Equinox celebrations are huge in Mexico. Many of those participating will either wear tradition costumes, based around Aztec or Maya historical designs, or else will don white outfits. The belief is that white absorbs the sun's enriching energies during this ethereal, beautiful time. It certainly feels very special to participate in such a gathering.


Chichén Itzá
Various tours, to suit every wallet or time-frame, to the most famous of all the Maya ruins.

Tulum & Xel-Ha All Inclusive
Combine Maya history with natural beauty! Tour the Tulúm ruins, then swim in the Xel Ha natural aquarium.

Spring Break in Cancun

It's coming up to that time of year again. Students across the USA are cramming for exams and burning the midnight oil, in order to get that assignment in on time. But the scent of spring break is in the air and, for an even higher number of people than ever, that means Mexico! Orbitz has reported that Cancun, San Jose del Cabo and Puerto Vallarta are all in the top five Spring Break destinations this year. Bring on the party!



Resort towns, like Cancun, are crowded at the best of times, but Spring Break is when the atmosphere really starts buzzing. Flash parties, organized parties, activities and trips, anything can and will happen, with perfect strangers grinning solidarity in the streets. Everyone is here for a fun time and the excitement is palpable in the air.

If you are one of the thousands who make the pilgrimage here every year, then you know what to expect. Party on! This is a blog aimed at those venturing out for the first time. Oh! You are going to have such a treat! However, for many of you, this is a foreign country, so let's see how we can prepare you for a great vacation.

Endless Tours's Top Ten Tips for a
Perfect Cancun Spring Break.



Tip Number One: Pack Well

Cancun is hot, in every sense of the word! You will be basking beneath a tropical sun, with a beach-life booming and the nightclubs beckoning. If you are unfamiliar with such temperatures and lifestyle, then you'll need to know what to pack.

We blogged about that here: Packing for your Cancún Vacation.

Tip Number Two: Exchange Your Money

Cancun is a tourist destination and, as such, the majority of places accept US dollars. It's convenient for those on vacation. But is it necessarily the best deal for you?

Enter the debate and know your currency here: Dollars versus Pesos in Cancún.



Tip Number Three: Educate Yourself About Timeshare

As soon as you step off the 'plane, you will be approached by Timeshare representatives. They will offer fantastic deals, including free trips or entrance passes into attractions. They will offer the world on a plate. It is your prerogative to decide whether to accept or walk away. However, you can't really do that unless you know precisely what Timeshare is!

Learn all about it in this blog: Timeshare.

Tip Number Four: Arrive Quickly and Safely at your Hotel.

The last thing that you want is any delay in getting to the party. Once out of the airport, you will be met with a bewildering array of people offering to drive you to your accommodation. Many of these will be Timeshare operatives; while some are unlicensed drivers out to make a quick buck. Hey! It happens everywhere! But you don't have to fall for any of it.

The trick is to book your shuttle transfer in advance. Naturally, we'll want to highlight the Endless Tours service here. Alternatively, Cancun Airport has licensed the internationally reknowned Taxi by Hertz.



Tip Number Five: Find the Party.

To be fair, it would be harder to not find any parties. Cancun is one big party during Spring Break. They even happen on the bus. True story.

Read about some of the bigger Cancun nightclubs here: Party Night in Cancún.

Tip Number Six: Party Legally!

Nothing puts a dampener on a vacation like being arrested and thrown in jail. (Though granted, for some, no vacation is complete without it.) Please do remember that you are in a foreign country now, so the laws may be totally different to those back home. If you commit a crime in Mexico, then you will be subject to Mexican law. No exceptions.

Familiarize yourself with the most important ones (ie those covering sex, drugs and rock'n'roll) here: Is it Legal?



Tip Number Seven: Look After Yourself

You might feel invincible, out there having the time of your life, but your body can have other ideas. The Mexican sun can be hot, hot, hot! If you are not used to the heat, then it's worth swotting up on how to avoid common pitfalls.

We have a couple of blog entries concerning that: Coping With the Mexican Heat: Body Temperature and Over-Heating and Coping With the Mexican Heat: Keeping Cool. A new Sombrero anyone?

There's also the fact that a sudden change in drinking water or food can upset a delicate constitution. When this happens in Mexico, then it's called Montezuma's Revenge.

Tip Number Eight: Learn to Haggle Like a True Bargain Hunter

Cancun is an amazing location for shopping. There are several large malls (and a loads of smaller ones too), but there are also the mercados. These should be approached with the spirit of a hunter. You can bag yourself some serious bargains here, but only if you know how to haggle.

A user-guide to these markets can be found here: How to Haggle for Goods at the Mercado



Tip Number Nine: Venture Out on Some Trips

You could spend your entire vacation around the hotel and beach. There would be enough to keep you entertained right there. But you wouldn't be seeing the true Mexico there. Broaden your horizons with a trip away from the resort, as there are some absolutely awesome sights very close to Cancun. This includes one of the Seven New Wonders of the World, Chichén Itzá.

You can peruse some of them over on the Endless Tours website.

Tip Number Ten: Enjoy Yourself!

This is your big vacation. Let all the stresses go and just kick back. You will have the time of your life and, undoubtedly, we'll see you again next year.



Viva Mexico! And viva Spring Break!

Getting Married in Cancun

Happy Valentine's Day, beautiful people! On this day of flowers and chocolates, it's not unusual for the big question to be popped. Down on one knee; eyes shining, full of hope; the ring proffered in a trembling hand; and a smile around the words, "Will you marry me?" And if the answer is a resounding, "Yes!", then beyond the hugs, kisses and excited calls to everyone you know, another big thought looms. Where should we get married?



Over the past decade, the Riviera Maya has grown in reputation as a dream wedding location. As the costs of traditional weddings soar, it's often a simple task of mathematics to realise that it would be cheaper to get married in paradise. Legally binding, but against a backdrop of white sands, a turquoise sea and palm trees. Does it get more sublime and romantic than that?

So many people choose to marry here that wedding packages, planners, stores and all of the other associated services have become big business. There will be no shortage of professional people ready to help you arrange your big day. In Cancun, especially, there are hundreds of locations licensed to hold weddings. You can download a PDF on the Cancun Travel Information site, which shows you a selection of them.



But first the boring stuff - the legalities! First check that a marriage in Mexico will be recognized in your own country. For heterosexual couples, this isn't usually a problem. For homosexual couples, you may find that your own government will not consider your union to be valid. There have been reports that the Australian authorities will even withhold travel permits, for those citizens who are planning a same sex wedding abroad. Either way, a legal wedding in Mexico will result in a marriage certificate, verified by the Registrar's Office.



If all is good, then you will need to bring certain documents:

Documents Required for Civil Office

• Home address and occupations (bride & groom)
• Birth certificates (Original or certified copy of each one)
• Valid passports (Although passports are not required for US citizens for entry into Mexico, they are mandatory for weddings)
• Original blood test (to determine blood type, HIV and STD). Tests must be taken at the resort and results are ready within 24 hours (Fee of approximately $50.00 per person applies)
• Original or certified copy of former spouse's death certificate (if applicable)
• Original divorce decree (if applicable)
• Legal documentation of adoption or name change (if applicable)
• Tourist ID (provided by customs upon your arrival at Cancun International Airport)
• Name, age, nationality, home address, occupation, driver’s licence or passport and tourist ID of 4 witnesses. Witnesses must arrive two (2) days prior to ceremony. If witnesses are not available, we will provide them.
• Bride and Groom must arrive to Cancun at least 3 working days prior to the wedding ceremony to meet with the wedding coordinator and submit all documents. Ceremony will not be performed unless all documents are in order. (no exceptions)

** Do Not Send Documents by Mail **
-Reservations should be made in advance to guarantee preferred wedding date. -Mexican registry office is only open from Monday through Saturday
-Dress code: Formal or Semi-formal, no shorts or bathing suits
Source: Cancun Mexico Weddings

Once the legalities are dealt with, then there is a wealth of details to determine. Will you marry in a hotel, on the beach, in a Maya village, on a golf course, in a sacred place or maybe at Chichén Itzá itself? The list is endless! Though a religious ceremony may require extra documentation and a minister.

Requirements for a Catholic marriage in Cancun are:

• Certificates of baptism
• Certificates of confirmation
• Permission of the selected church
• Two witnesses
• A passport-size photo of both the bride and groom
• Prenuptial counseling attended by both the bride and groom

Source: Cancun Travel

For all other religious marriages, it is better to check with the local representatives. The Cancun places of worship are listed here.

Of course, some people like to have more than one ceremony; and why not? It's their big day!



This photograph was taken from the roll of Nina and Anesh. They opted to have both a traditional Maya ceremony and a Hindu wedding, though on different days!



With documentation ready and location chosen, your next step is to organize your wedding. For those traveling miles to marry in paradise, it might be worth hiring a local wedding planner. A simple search on the internet will provide you with pages of links to them. Alternatively, if you wished to arrange matters yourself, the same search will provide everything from florists to satellite link video producers, who ensure that those back home share in the day.





Tempting, isn't it? Happy Valentine's Day all!