Showing posts with label Mérida. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mérida. Show all posts

September 10, 2010

Los Insurgentes: The Poets, Publicists and Spies

It began as a love story. Leona met Andrés, at her uncle's law firm, where he was working as a lawyer. The two became instantly besotted with each other. He asked her to marry him and she immediately said 'yes!' But there was a problem. Her uncle forbade the union outright. As a staunch royalist, he could not permit his beloved niece to marry Andrés Quintana Roo. The man was an insurgent!

Leona VicarioLeona Vicario was a wealthy woman. She had been born, in Mexico City, on April 10th, 1789, as an heiress to a Creole fortune. Her full name was Maria de la Soledad Camila Leona Vicario Fernandez de San Salvador and Montiel de Quintana Roo, which possibly explains why she introduced herself as merely Leona Vicario.

She had been orphaned at a young age, hence the fact that she was now living under the guardianship of her uncle, Agustín Pomposo Fernández de San Salvador.

She had been 21 years old, when news spread of the insurgency swarming into their direction. Though secretly sympathetic to the course, she wasn't actively involved in it. She was too busy flirting with Andrés, a man who wrote such beautiful poetry.

Andrés Quintana Roo, on the other hand, already had a bit of a history of subversive action. Andrés Quintana RooHe was born Eligio Andrés Quintana Roo, on November 30th, 1787, in Mérida, Yucatán, as the son of José and Maria Ana Matías Quintana Roo.

José had established the first printing press in on the Yucatán Peninsula; and he'd already caught the eye of the authorities with publications that bordered upon insubordination.

(It should be noted that there was no Mexican state of Quintana Roo (pron. keen-TAH-nah ROH-oh) at this point. It's a common error to see his name rendered as Andrés de Quintana Roo. There was no 'de' about it. The state was named after Andrés, not the other way around. He came from Yucatán; Quintana Roo is the state underneath that.)

In 1802, at the age of 15, Andrés Quintana Roo had joined the Sanjuanistas, being taken there by his father, José. This was a group of Mexican Creole political thinkers, who met at San Juan Church, in Mérida. It was led by Padre Vicente María Velásquez, a priest who had an especial interest in the plight of Indians and indigenious Maya workers. These people tended to be kept on starvation wages, working long hours in the fields and plantations of Spanish overlords. The group discussed freedom of the press, education for all (including the 'peasant' classes), universal suffrage and other such radical ideas of the time. They also condemned the privileges of the Spanish, over the native people.

José Matías Quintana Roo was later to be arrested and sentenced to incarceration at the notorious San Juan de Ulua island prison, off the coast of Veracruz. His publications, fuelled with the ideas of the Sanjuanistas, had finally proved too much for the Spanish governors to stomach.

Real y Pontificia Universidad de Nueva España
The Royal and Pontifical University of New Spain

Meanwhile, his son, Andrés, was well away. At the age of 21, Andrés had moved to Mexico City to complete his education. He had gained his primary qualifications at the Seminario de San Idelfonso de Mérida (San Idelfonso Seminary, in Mérida), but, in order to be a fully practicing lawyer, he needed to enter Real y Pontificia Universidad de Nueva España (The Royal and Pontifical University of New Spain). Thus it was that, two years later and close to his 23rd birthday, he was still in the capital city, hearing from his boss that he was not going to be allowed to marry Agustín's niece.

The couple were stunned. With his father in prison and Hidalgo's army on the march, the injustices sparking the cause had now crashed straight into Andrés's personal life. He gave in his notice. He left the building. He rode straight out to meet the Army of the Insurgents and he joined it.

Leona Vicario was no less incensed. She was 21 years old and, as far as she was concerned, her uncle had no right to interfere in her marriage plans like this. Until now, she had kept out of the insurrection. She had played the society woman and she'd been a good girl. No more. Leona also packed her bags. She moved to Tacuba, which is now part of the Miguel Hidalgo borough, in the north-west of Mexico City, but then was a town slightly apart. Then she got active.

Leona Vicario

For a start, Leona Vicario found like-minded women and organized them. They acted as spies and couriers for the rebels. She financed them from her own fortune. It is believed that, by the end of the War of Independence, Leona had personally contributed over $80,000 pesos to the cause. (In today's money, that would be the equivalent of roughly $1,330,000 pesos.)

They aligned themselves with the Guadalupes, a clear signal that they supported the Virgin of Guadalupe. This was highly significant at the time, especially in Mexico City. It was also the reason that Hidalgo was using the Virgin of Guadalupe in his speeches, slogans and flags. While now, the Virgin of Guadalupe is a common icon throughout Mexico, back in 1810, it was used only by the caste Indians and indigenious people. Not by people of Leona's class.


Virgin of Los Remedios
The Virgin of Guadalupe (left) and
the Virgin of Los Romedios (above)


Virgin of Guadalupe


The Virgin of Guadalupe is a depiction of Mary, Mother of Christ, but as a brunette with a darker complexion. As a wealthy Creole, of Spanish descent, Leona should have been casting her lot with the Virgin of Los Remedios. This was Mary, Mother of Christ, looking altogether richer, with paler skin and much lighter brown hair. This is Mary as the Queen of Heaven; while the Virgin of Guadalupe was Mary as a humble woman. She wore a cloak spun from agave (the plant which is also the main ingredient in tequila). She had symbols around her that dated back from Atzec goddesses.

Leona's faction of the Mexico City Guadalupes were all women of high status and even better connections. They were able to use their society lifestyle to gain information from the Realista officer class and those close to the viceroy. They were able easily form a network of informants that passed this information onto the leaders of the insurgency. After the battle of Monte de las Cruces, when it seemed that Hidalgo's Army of the Americas was about to storm Mexico City itself, the ranks of the Guadalupes swelled. Many of the ladies were now quite open about their involvement. They thought that Mexican independence was just around the corner.

But then Hidalgo ordered the retreat and, within months, he and the other leaders had been arrested and executed. Many letters, signed by El Guadalupes, were found upon them, giving important (and hitherto classified) information. The authorities had to act and so began a program of search and arrest within the city itself. Many of the more indiscreet ladies were captured. Within their respective camps, Leona and Andrés both escaped detection. But they weren't finished with the independence movement yet.

Andrés was on the run. He moved from city to city, using his publishing knowledge to create two newspapers: 'Semanario Patriótico Americano' (American Patriot Weekly) and 'Ilustrador Americano' (American Illustrator). Both received wide circulation, promoting Mexican independence and all of the insurgent groups. It got the news out there, as well as inspiring people to join them. The viceroy's office wanted greatly to close them down.

Ilustrador Americano


Leona continued her intelligence work. Hidalgo and his people may be down, but others were rising into prominence. She found out who they were and she ensured that they were now in possession of her information and funds. She also received messages back, explaining what was needed on the front line. Chief amongst them was armaments. Leona took it upon herself to persuade the gunsmiths of Nueva Vizcaya (modern-day Chihuahua, Durango, Texas and New Mexico) to join the rebel's cause. This was a step too far and she was betrayed by one of them.

Leona was arrested on January 13th, 1813. She absolutely refused to name her colleagues nor anyone in her network of contacts. If she had been a man, she would probably have been sent to prison or executed. But she was a lady of breeding and therefore that would not have been appropriate. Instead, she was sent to a convent. El Convento de Belén de las Mochas (the covent of Bethlehem, in the Mochas) was still within Mexico City. She was only there for four months, before three insurgents, disguised as Realistas, visited her under the pretext of further questioning. Colonels Antonio Vázquez Aldarna and Luis Alconedo (and a third man) soon spirited her out of the gates to freedom.

José María Morelos
José María Morelos


She was taken to Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, where she met up with José María Morelos. Morelos was the bright star of the current insurgency hopes, but life with his army wasn't easy. Used to the finery of salons, Leona was now on the road. She was seeing first-hand what the battlefields were like, as she camped with them and supported them as best she could. In response, her own property and goods, in Mexico City, were confiscated by the viceroy.

The army arrived in Michoacán state, where many insurgent groups were congregating.tlalpujahua They were seeking to create an government and a declaration of independence was already being drafted.

Up in the hillsides, hidden deep within the hundreds of mine shafts, the López Rayón brothers had been smithing guns and other armaments for the insurgents, until just a month before. That was when the Realistas had overwhelmed El Gallo hill and forcing them to evacuate.

Many of Leona's letters, or whispered communications, had ended up in Michoacán. But they was not the only things belonging to her here. In the municapality of Tlalpujahua, she was reunited with Andrés Quintana Roo. There was no uncle between them now and they were married without delay.

In September, 1913, José María Morelos read out the Sentimientos de la Nación (Feelings of the Nation), at the Congress of Chilpancingo. This was their Declaration of Independence and it named Andrés as the governor of Puebla. This, however, was a government still in hiding. Though that didn't stop them passing a series of laws, with Andrés as a senior congressman, presiding over many of the committees. The couple were forced to move frequently, still publishing newspapers and doing their best to support the cause in whatever way possible.

In 1818, their daughter, Genoveva, was born. This caused them to stay too long in one place, while Leona was heavily pregnant and then gave birth. Their location was discovered by the Realistas and the whole family was arrested. After a short period in prison, the family were offered a pardon, on condition that they were exiled to Spain. They accepted it and left the country. They were doing no good in prison and they had a baby.

However, they were soon back. Mexico had finally achieved independence, in 1821, and Andrés took his seat as part of an official government. The couple were given the Ocotepec Hacienda, in the plains of Apam, as compension for their financial and property losses during the struggle. They resumed their positions at the top of Mexico City's society. Leona died there, in 1842, and Andrés, in 1851, both peacefully.

Andrés Quintana Roo
Andrés Quintana Roo


Where to Visit:


* San Juan Church, Mérida. This is the place where the Sanjuanistas met, consolidating and enflaming Quintana Roo's passion for the insurgency.

* San Juan de Ulua, Veracruz. The fort, which has been alternatively used as a fort, prison and the seat of government, is now a museum owned by the Mexican Navy. This is the place where José Matías Quintana Roo was imprisoned for subversive publications.

* Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca. This is the city where Leona met José María Morelos. The city is a UNESCO Cultural Site.

* Tlalpujahua, Michoacán. This is the city where the couple were reunited and married.

May 19, 2010

Pirates of the Caribbean - Fermin Mundaca

Mundaca's tombFermin Anonio Mundaca y Marecheaga was born, on October 11th, 1825, in Santa Maria, Spain. He was well educated, but as soon as his studies were completed, he crossed the oceans to make his fortune in the slave trade. He raided Mexico, in search of Mayan people to abduct and sell. He also undertook voyages to Africa, where he bought people to ship to the Americas. Both Mayan and African slaves were destined for the sugarcane plantations and mines of Cuba and the Antillas. There were rumours that he was also a traditional pirate too, but no actual anecdotes to back this up. He certainly called himself a pirate and none of the other pirates around at the time challenged him on the nom-de-plume.

By 1858, the British Navy had started to crack down upon the slave trade. Mundaca decided that it was time to retire, signalling the act with a symbolic torching of his own ship. Mundaca was wealthy enough to settle down and so bought half of Isla Mujeres. This was his tropical island retreat and he had money to spend, so he spent it. His hacienda was based near to Playa Lancheros and took over 40% of the island. It exists today and was called 'La Vista Alegre' (Joyous or happy view).

Mundaca had plenty of people to whom he could show off. In 1847, the Caste War of Yucatán had begun and, by 1858, around 250 people fleeing from it had populated the Isla Mujeres village of Pueblo de Dolores. These included fellow pirates, who no doubt looked with envy upon his hacienda. Between them, these pirates owned the other 60% of the island, upon which also lived local fishing communities. Amongst them was an emerald eyed, Mayan woman, Martiniana 'Prisca' Gómez Pantoja. She was eighteen years old, willowy, with pale skin bronzed by the sun and her beauty was already attracting interest amongst the young men of her community.

Hacienda MundacaMundaca fell in love. He called her La Trigueña (The Brunette) and had a great archway built, as the northern entrance to his estate, in her honor. El Paso de La Trigueña! The Gateway of the Brunette! He built a two-storey, palatial home overlooking a shallow valley. He created stone terraces with carved stone benches, each bearing a hand-carved plaque. He made a massive sundial for her called 'La Rosa de los Vientos' ('The Rose of the Wind'). You could tell the time by seeing upon which flowers the shadow of the dial fell, during any hour of the day. He dug a well and constructed eight walled gardens around it in an octagon shape. He extended his gardens and added a menagerie of livestock and exotic birds. He had ploughed and sown a huge vegetable garden. A second archway, as the south-eastern entrance to his estate, had the words etched into it, 'Entrada de La Trigueña' (Entrance of the Brunette). He plundered the local Mayan ruins and brought back ornately decorated stones to be used in his own hacienda. He created a warren of small pathways, lined with sea grapes and icaco, lit with torches and leading down to the bay. Coconut palms and chitale were planted for their milk. All for her.

Unfortunately for the pirate, Senorita Gómez Pantoja was having none of it. She was 37 years younger than Mundaca and already had a sweetheart of her own. She was also Mayan and he was Spanish. Three centuries of Spanish conquest was culminating even now in the War of the Castes over on the mainland. She, along with the rest of the Mayan population of Isla Mujeres, hated his guts. There was also the fact that Mundaca hadn't quite finished with his slave trading. Between 1858 and 1870, he continued to rent boats to the Government of the Yucatán, which were used to capture rebel Mayans and sell them to the Cuban plantations. Mundaca took his cut of the proceeds and he became referred to as the Spanish Consul on Isla Mujeres by the same government. He also captured Mayan people from the mainland coastline and used them as slaves to build his sprawling estate. They were made to dismantle the ancient temples on the island and use the stone for his own constructions. All in Pantoja's honor. Mundaca seemed to find no incongruity between his trade of her people and the fact that she didn't want a thing to do with him.

Prisca married her own love, Senor Martinez, and Mundaca went a little crazy watching her from afar. He became a recluse inside his hacienda, walking endlessly and stuffing his pockets full of random stones. These stones were piled up around the well, almost as a cairn to his lost love. He planted hundreds of flowers in his gardens. Except for two male servants, Mundaca saw no-one and traded with no-one. He allowed his vegetables and fruit to ripen in the ground, then fall and rot. His animals were given free rein. They frequently escaped and trampled over the crops and groves of the rest of the island. He never attempted to control them, even when they ruined the food of his neighbours.

Mundaca's tombMundaca also went to the cemetery, in the north part of Isla Town, on the island and created a tomb for himself. The granite tombstone is peculiar. It was carved by Mundaca in 1877, the date which he added to the stone. It is intriguing to ponder upon the date. Did he intend to do away with himself in order to render the date correct? Or did he consider this the moment when his life was over, despite himself still moving and breathing in it? The tombstone shows a skull and crossbones as its icon. There is also a message for his disinterested love:

Lo que tu eres, yo fui
lo que lo soy, luego seras
-As you are, I was - as I am, you will be

In the end, he couldn't stand watching Prisca getting on with life, raising a family and making her home any longer. He left the island, in 1880, and travelled 200 miles away to Mérida. There he died within weeks. Some say that he contracted plague; others say that he just withered away alone in a brothel. His body was not returned to Isla Mujeres, to the tomb which he had already prepared. It lies empty.




* Hacienda Mundaca, Isla Mujeres: The ruins of Vista Alegre are on the south side of the island. The entrance fee is $20 pesos.

* El Cementario, Avenida López Mateos, Isla Town, Isla Mujeres: Mundaca's empty tomb with the tombstone carved by himself.

* Mérida: Mundaca died there.
 
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