January 11, 2011

Copper Canyon National Park

It is a canyon four times larger and deeper than the USA's Grand Canyon. It is home to the native Tarahumara people; as well as being the location of both the tallest and the second tallest waterfalls in the country. It is called Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon) and, when a television show recently asked viewers to vote for the greatest natural wonder in Mexico, it won by a landslide majority.

Copper Canyon


Here the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range rises up to 8000ft (2.4km) above sea-level, in an area known as the Sierra Tarahumara. Copper Canyon is carved out of the landscape by the meeting of not one, but six rivers. These rivers flow down the western side of the Sierra Tarahumara, creating six ravines, before joining together to form the mighty Río Fuerte (Fuerte River). As the waters flow, they stain the riverbanks a copper color, hence the name given to the canyon as a whole.

Along the way, these waters create such wondrous sights. Cascada de Piedra Volada (Flying Stone Waterfall) plummets 1,486 feet (453 meters) down the side of one of the ravines. Cascada de Piedra Volada It is 50ft (15 meters) wide and can be found in the Cañon Candamena (Candamena Canyon).

This is the largest waterfall in Mexico, as well as the 11th tallest in the world, but you have to time it right to see it in its full glory. The rainy season (May to September) is the best time of all, when the rivers are swollen to capacity.

Remarkably, the falls have only recently been discovered, in September, 1994, as they lay in reasonably inaccessible wilderness. (Though it may be assumed that the locals knew it was there.) The tourist trails have now opened them up, but, for many, Piedra Volada is still best seen from a distance. Up close, the nature of the rock formations mean that there isn't a clear sight of the waterfall for all of your hard work getting up there.

Nevertheless, many make pilgrimage, because the stunning views of the rest of the canyon more than compensate. Going to the top of Piedra Volada is only for the hardy. It can be reached only via a hiking trail, starting in San Lorenzo, which takes up to 8 hours for the round trip. This also includes a section where hands and feet will both be needed, in order to traverse a rock ramp.

Copper Canyon is also home to Mexico's second tallest waterfall. Cascada de Basaseachi (Basaseachic Falls) is found in the canyon of the same name. It was believed for centuries that this was the country's biggest waterfall, until Cascada de Piedra Volada knocked it off its perch. However, unlike its neighbour, Basaseachi falls permanently, all year round.



Cascada de Basaseachi cascades down 807ft (246 meters) from the top of the Sierra Tarahumara. It is also easily accessible from the mountain-top town of Creel. This old railroad and logging town now caters for the influx of tourists, with many local amenities to serve their needs. It affords an excellent view of Cascada de Basaseachi, while a short drive out, on Federal Highway 16, allows visitors to reach the top of the falls themselves.

There are many such towns and villages dotted throughout the Copper Canyon. Some have been specifically built as tourist towns, since the area became designated as Parque Nacional Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon National Park). There is controversy over a couple of them, as large hotels are seen as distracting from the otherwise breath-taking vista.

However, barely noticeable at all are those settlements belonging to the indigenious Rarámuri. Friendly and sociable, these people have lived in the canyon since long before the arrival of the Spanish. Their legends tell of a giant rampaging through the scenery, causing the deep ravines with his heavy footfalls. Some Rarámuri have built their homes from scratch, while many others live quite comfortably inside caves. (They are quite used to tourists stumbling upon them and asking, in amazed delight, for photographs of their homes.)

Rarámuri


Tarahumara Cave, Creel, Mexico
This travel blog photo's source is TravelPod page: Creel, Chihuahua

The Rarámuri's Spanish name, Tarahumara, means 'the running people'. It references the amazing stamina of these people, who have been known to run non-stop for days. One of their hunting techniques was to chase their prey, until it fell from exhaustion; while one of their ball games rules it a foul, if a player stops running. These games often go on all day and well into the night too. You can read more about the Tarahumara, as well as seeing some stunning photography, on the Friends of the Running People website.

As well as human being, Copper Canyon is home to some quite rare wildlife, including the Stygian owls. Amongst the other 300 species of birds found here are royal eagle, mountain cockatoo, wild turkey and thick-billed parrots. You might also spot a mountain lion or a Mexican wolf.

Many agree that the best way to view Copper Canyon is by taking the Chepe Train, from Los Mochis to Chihuahua. There are roads, but that involves wanting to park up every five minutes to see another awe-inspiring sight. There are also commercial buses, as well as plenty of tourist buses. The former might be the cheapest way to travel, other than walking, but they can get very crowded. Hiking, biking and horse-riding also remain perennial favourites. Lots of travel advice is given in this Lonely Planet forum thread.

Copper Canyon


Time to discover why so many Mexicans rate this area as their country's greatest wonder?

January 10, 2011

Naica: The Crystal Cave of Giants

The Naica Mine of Chihuahua had been worked for centuries before two miners, following a seam of silver, broke into a vast subterranean cavern. What they found there made them stop in their tracks. Within days, an iron door was installed to protect the entrance. They had uncovered a true wonder of Mexico.

Naica Crystal Mine


It has been called the Crystal Cave of Giants and Cave of the Giant Crystals. The locals call it simply Cueva de los Cristales (Cave of the Crystals). There are actually three co-joined caves, one much larger than the others. This cathedral-sized cavern is home to vast fingers of selenite, rising in columns so tall that they dwarf the humans crawling amongst them.

Naica Crystal Mine


The ghostly, transulent crystals have been measured up to 36 feet (11 meters) in height, weighing in at 55 tonnes. They make up the largest natural crystals ever discovered on Earth and therefore attract geologists and scientists in their hordes, as well as the tourists. However, no-one can stand to be in the cave for more than a few minutes, due to the crippling heat inside.

Cueva de los Cristales lies 1,200 feet (365.76 meters) below the surface. Beneath it is a pool of magma, rising up from the Earth's core. It is a very hot place. Temperatures of 150 F (65.6 C) have been recorded in the larger cave, while the smaller bakes in a mere 100 F (37.8 C).

The risks of entering are very real. Shortly after their discovery, an opportunist miner bypassed the protective iron door through a small tunnel. He took with him plastic bags filled with fresh air, in a bid to stay alive long enough to steal some of the precious crystals. He was found the next day, not only dead, but roasted too. This is the reason that visitors to the caves do so under strict supervision and with proper equipment.

Naica Crystal Mine
Photograph by Richard D. Fisher


These gigantic crystals have been slowly growing over the past 500,000 years. They sit over a fault line. Around 2-3 miles (3-5 km) beneath the caverns is a giant pool of magma. As groundwater seeped down, through the porous limestone bedrock, the caverns became flooded over time. The waters were rich in gypsum minerals, oxygen and . The magma's heat worked like a hob on a cooker, maintaining this water at a simmering, steady 122 F (50 C), for half a million years. The gypsum in the water solidified into selenite crystals. However, unless the cave is flooded again, the crystals will stop slowly increasing in size and quantity now.

The caves are kept free of water by the mining company that owns them. Their pumps extract 22,000 gallons of water per minute from the system. This is an expensive operation and is likely to cease later this year.

Mining first began, in the area, in 1794. The local Tarahumara people had long known that there was gold and silver in the Naica Hills. They had extracted some of it through small-scale surface digging. However, there was also zinc and lead in the ground and, in 1900, this was more valuable. That's when the first large scale mining company was formed, tunneling deep into the earth.

The mine was about to close down, in 1912, when an exploratory burrowing discovered a wonder at 400ft (120m). This was the fabulous Cave of Swords (Cueva de las Espadas).

Cave of Swords


Much smaller than what was to come, it's still an impressive cavern. Some of the crystals have grown to around 6.6ft (2 meters), while others cloister together, covering whole walls. Some of these crystals were taken away as geological wonders, to be exhibited in museums around the world.

In 1922, the mine opened again, extracting gold, silver, zinc and lead, yet still occasionally finding small selenite crystals lying around. The miners moved steadily deeper and deeper, their progress only pausing for new levels to be drained, before they could dig on.

In April 2000, two brothers were working for Industrias Peñoles' Naica Mine. Juan and Pedro Sanchez had been given orders to drill a new tunnel into the previously unexplored depths of 984ft (300 meters). They broke through and stood staring. They had found the first of the truly awe-inpsiring caverns, the Crystals' Cave.

Crystals' Cave


They called the engineer-in-charge, Roberto Gonzalez, who immediately contacted the mine's owners. It was now, within days of the discovery, that the protective door was added to the cavern's entrance.

However, this wasn't the end of the story. Shortly afterwards, two more employees of the mining company, also brothers, were sent to explore further into the cavern. Eloy and Francisco Javier Delgado worked in sweltering temperatures to bore a small passageway into the cavern beyond. The gap was tiny, but Francisco decided to squeeze through anyway. His Davy Lamp torch lit up the interior and Francisco cried out. He had become the first human being to behold a sight that has caused grown men to weep with the sheer majestic beauty.

The Queen's Eye


Eloy quickly inched his way through the difficult passage to join him.

Both were in awe, it appeared that an eye was looking at them. They experienced something fantastic; a totally dark bubble inside the cave, which at first contact with the light shone like a diamond.
NAICA Project

They had found the Queen's Eye Cave.

Yet there was still something even more breath-taking beyond. This is the cavern that geologist, Juan Manuel García-Ruiz (University of Granada), in an interview with 'National Geographical', called 'the Sistine Chapel of crystals'. Photographer and author, Richard D Fisher, describes his feelings there:

Momentarily, the penetrating heat is forgotten as the crystals pop into view on the other side of the newly named "Eye of the Queen". The entire panorama is now lighted and the cavern has a depth and impressive cathedral-like appearance that was not visible on earlier trips with just our headlamps.

When inside the great cathedral of crystals, the pressure of intense heat makes my feelings run up and down the emotional scale from sheer religious awe to outright panic... When I'm done working after three trips into the great cavern, my friends almost have to carry me out. We want to see more, but physically cannot. When the experience is over there is a great relief, but all we can think about is when can we go back in.
Crystal Cave of the Giants - Discovery of the Largest Crystals on Earth

This is the largest of the three caverns, the mystically stunning Candles Cave.

Candles Cave


Selenite is named after the Greek Moon Goddess, Selene. The crystals' apparent magical properties, in seeming to glow from the inside, are reminiscent of moonlight. Selenite is used by some to calm the emotions and provide clarity of reflective thought. It has also been crushed and used in cosmetics.

Naica Mine is still an active worksite. It is possible for tourists to arrange supervised access to the upper caverns, but the lower ones are restricted to employees and scientists only. It's simply too dangerous at present, to expose tourists to the temperatures involved.

December 24, 2010

Christmas in Mexico: Noche Buena

Christmas Eve is a huge celebration in Mexico. This is the night when the parties and feasts occur; and when the children can expect a few small gifts. At midnight, there is La Misa del Gallo (The Rooster's call), in the form of church-bells ringing. After Midnight Mass, the party goes on. After all, an old Spanish verse reads: 'Esta noche es Noche-Buena, Y no es noche de dormir' ('Tonight is the good night, and it is not meant for sleeping').


The Ani Family enjoy Noche Buena



The cast and crew of 'Starstruck: The Nationwide Invasion' enjoy their Noche Buena, on set, in 2007


Noche Buena, as you may have gathered, means 'Good Night'. This isn't to be confused with buenas noches, which is the general 'goodnight' that is said throughout the year at bedtime. Noche Buena is Christmas Eve. It marks the good/fantastic/wondrous night, when the Christ child was born into the world.

This is the evening when Mexican families, and their guests, gather en masse. Depending upon the family, the meal might be served before or after the Midnight Mass. There are bound to be some traditional dishes on the table, in particular, Pavo Trufado de Navidad (Christmas Turkey with Truffles). Some of the food and drinks on offer may be: tamales; atole; Bacalao a la Vizcaína (Salt Cod with Red Pepper Sauce); Revoltijo de Romeritos (Shrimps and Wild Greens in Mole Sauce); Macarrones Yucatecos (Baked Macaroni) and many others beside.

Alcohol and hot drinks are free-flowing for the adults. These are not only used to lubricate the celebrations, but also in the toasts. Brindis is the Mexican word for toasts. Naturally there are brindis to the Holy Family, in whose honor this celebration is being held. But there are plenty more brindis throughout the night, ranging from the poignant to the downright silly. Anything that a Mexican, half addled on tradition Ponche, can think of to toast will be toasted with gusto!


The staff of Radio Lí­der-Punto engage in bindis.


For the children, there will be Piñatas, but also small gifts. For many, in the Spanish speaking world, presents aren't exchanged on Christmas Day, as they are in some countries. That all tends to happen on January 6th, in an entirely different celebration. However, Christmas Eve is also good for a gift or two, if you're a child.

Mexican children will have encountered Santa Claus, but he's a recent import from America and Canada. Instead, they will have had half an eye on El Niño Dios (the Holy Child), who watches their conduct to see if they've been naughty or nice.

Also part of the festivities will be hand-held sparklers. Some families might go all out and have a firework display.

Everything stops when the church-bells ring. The entire party leaves the house and makes their way to the church. Church services are always well attended in Mexico, but the Midnight Mass, on Noche Buena, is unmissable. It will be standing room only, as the whole community gathers together to honor this special night.

Then it's back to various homes, so the joyous celebrations can continue into the early hours of Christmas Day. That day becomes the day of rest. Left-overs constitute the food, as everyone is still too full to move from the night before. This is the day to investigate some good old Mexican hangover cures.

On behalf of everyone at Endless Tours, may I wish you all a resounding Feliz Navidad!

December 23, 2010

Christmas in Mexico: More Festive Celebrations

Gritty the Snowman


There's no snow in Cancún, but there is white sand! Gritty the Snowman was the creation of the Howden family, during their Christmas in the Mexican resort.

Las Pastorelas


Mexican children participating in Las Pastorelas (Shepherds Plays). This tradition dates back to the coming of the Spanish to Mexico and it is still going strong today. Las Pastorelas are often improvised, ad hoc affairs, with players telling the stories in their own ways.

These plays tell a host of Biblical stories, from Adam and Eve, through to the more common Nativity tales. Most popular of all is La Pastorela (The Shepherd), which portrays the arrival of the Archangel Michael to a group of shepherds. The archangel tells the shepherds to go to Bethlehem to pay homage to the baby Christ. The shepherds' journey there is beset with problems, notably caused by the devils, Luzbel and Asmodeo. They do have assistance though, in the form of el Ermitaño (the Hermit), who shares his wisdom, as well as various angels.

This is a Mexican tradition which is also prevalent in the USA. More about that can be read here: Pastorelas and Pastores - las pastorelas, los pastores, autos sacramentales, El fin del mundo, Moros y Cristianos, Las Pastorelas.

Christmas Tree in Mexico City


Fireworks dazzle the skies, as the Christmas Tree is illuminated in the center of Mexico City. Just about every village, town and city in Mexico will be well decorated during the festive season. The most spectacular will be in the cities, where a huge budget is spent on creating extravagant illuminations along the streets and in the plazas.

Santa Claus in Guadalajara


Santa Claus stopping off, during his busy schedule, to meet with children (of all ages) in Guadalajara. Santa often makes a point of visiting shopping malls and hotel resorts too. Just because you're away from home, it doesn't mean that Santa can't find you.

That, of course, includes the Christmas party Mecca of Cancún. Here is Santa Claus and an elf turning up there on Christmas Day:

Santa and elf in Cancun


Parade in Oaxaca


These little angels were part of a Christmas parade, through the streets of Oaxaca. They are sitting on a float, waving to the crowds gathered to cheer them on. Note the poinsettia on the lap of one of the angels. Poinsettia is everywhere in Mexico, at this time of year, as are parades!

Ice Rink in Mexico City


Ice, in Mexico? Well, usually only in the drinks. At Christmas, there's also the Zócalo Ice Rink, which is the largest in the world. Based in the main plaza, at the heart of Mexico City's historic district, the ice rink is a stunning 300,000 square feet. And here you were, assuming that the world's biggest ice rink was probably in Lapland, or Antartica, or somewhere cold.

Stockings on palm trees


Meanwhile, the stockings are up and waiting for Santa Claus. This being Mexico, the nearest palm tree on a glorious beach provides the best place to hang them!

Feliz navidad! (Happy Christmas in Mexican)

December 22, 2010

Christmas in Mexico: Deck the Halls with Poinsettia

There is a legend told in Mexico about poinsettia. Two young children, Maria and Pablo, were walking into town. They had heavy hearts. In the center of town was a nativity scene, where everyone was going to leave gifts and tokens of their esteem for the Holy Family. Maria and Pablo had nothing. They were too poor. But they wanted to give something.

poinsettia


Then Pablo had an idea. All along the side of the road were weeds, ubiquitious to this part of Mexico. He picked an armful of them, explaining to Maria that, as long as their gift was given with love, it would be alright. It had to be alright. What else had they got?

So the children continued into town, to where the people were amassing around the nativity. As Pablo and Maria passed through them, eyes turned to what gift they had brought to honour the Christ child. Nudges and sniggers filled the space around them. The children had brought weeds. Weeds! Pablo straightened his shoulders, raised his chin high and refused to cry. He was doing what he could. That was all.

They reached the manger, wherein lay baby Jesus. Mary and Joseph smiled down kindly. The shepherds, wise men and angels watched them. The livestock crowded in. Here Pablo and Maria took their time arranging the weeds around the manger, hemmed in by the richer, better, prettier offerings of everyone else. Those people who tittered with derision, pointing to what the children thought was a worthy gift.

Once they had finished, Pablo whispered, "We give this with love." Then he took Maria's hand and turned with her to face the townspeople. Head held high against their jeers, they were in a perfect position to see the changing expressions on those staring back. Smirks gave way to dropping jaws and wide eyes. Giggles turned to gasps of awe and shock. The children turned slowly around, to see what was happening behind them.

poinsettia


The topmost leaves of the 'weeds' had transformed into beautiful, star-like flowers. All in vibrant red. The most wonderful flowers they had ever seen. The plant became known as Flor de Noche Buena (Christmas Eve flower) in Mexico. For some, it is called the Star of Bethlehem Flower. Most of the world knows it now as poinsettia.

At this time of year, many homes in Mexico are festooned with poinsettia. It is easy enough to find, as the plant is native to the country. We have vast fields and mountain-sides filled with them, as far as the eye can see. When they are in bloom, they are a breath-taking sight.

poinsettia
Poinsettia overlooking Baja California


It was vistas like this which so entranced an early American ambassador to Mexico. In 1829, Dr Joel Roberts Poinsett was touring Taxco del Alarcon (modern day Taxco, in Guerrero), when he spotted the flower. He fell in love with it. In fact, he started shipping cuttings of Flor de Noche Buena back to his mansion home, in Georgetown, South Carolina, USA. When he returned home, in 1831, he was amazed to discover that the whole town now had the flower blooming in their gardens. They were already calling it after him. The poinsettia is still the name used for the flower outside Mexico.

Poinsettia was already well known before the coming of Christianity. The Nahuatl called it Cuitlaxochitl (star flower). They prized it for its curative properties (great for heart problems) and the red dye that can be extracted from it. (It is an urban myth that poinsettia is toxic, as endless tests in American laboratories have proved.)

Today, it not only grows wild around Mexico, but is used in many Christmas tableaus and as decorations in homes and plazas. Anyone visiting Mexico, this time of year, is bound to spot it everywhere.

poinsettia
Poinsettia around a nativity scene in Mexico


poinsettia
Poinsettia as Christmas lights in Mexico City

December 21, 2010

Christmas in Mexico: Piñatas

Piñatas are popular at any time of the year. Whenever children are present at a celebration, you can bet that there will be piñatas. But Christmas time, in Mexico, is when they really come into their own. Christmas without a piñata? Unthinkable!

pinata


A piñata is a thin clay pot, covered in vibrant decoration. Paper mache is stuck to it, creating a host of wonderful designs in a blaze of color. Mexico markets will sell them in the shape of superheroes, flowers, animals, popular toys, celestial objects; you name it and there will probably be a piñata in that design. For Christmas, there are piñatas of reindeer, Santa Claus, stars, baubles and many other festive shapes. However, the original is that in the image above.

It was introduced into Mexico, as an Italian cultural item, by early Christian friars. The coming of the Spanish meant a lot of upheaval for native people. Wars saw the destruction of their homes and crops; while European diseases, like smallpox, had never been in the Americas before. The population here had no immunity and the resulting death-toll was even higher than in the fighting itself. This meant that a lot of people were starving.

Pope Sixtus V suggested that piñatas might lure these people into the missionaries and churches. The clay pot was filled with food, especially nuts and fruit, then hung beside the nativity scenes. The people were given sticks and the Catholic concept of sin was explained to them. The spikes of the original piñata represented the seven deadly sins. As they hit the piñatas, with their sticks, they were symbolically smashing those sins. This was done blindfolded, as a sign of faith. Their reward was the food, which cascaded down, once the clay pot inside was sufficiently broken.

pinata


However, some historians dispute the idea that it was Christian missionaries who brought the piñata to Mexico. They merely adapted a ceremony that already existed. Scholars point to the fact that the Aztec God of War, Huitzilopochtli, was honored with piñatas. The clay pots were filled with food and precious items. The outside of the pot was decorated with feathers and beads. Worshippers hit the pot with a stick to shatter it, thus allowing the God's bounty to fall at their feet. It was a reminder that fighting will gain rewards. After all, this was the God of War.

There is also some evidence that the Aztec God, honored in this way, was Tlaloc. As he was the Rain God, then the pots were filled with water. People took turns to smash it. The person ultimately drenched was the one upon whom Tlaloc had bestowed his blessing.

These days, piñatas are more likely to be filled with candy and small toys. Any child old enough to wield a stick may take their turn at whacking it. Eventually, the pot smashes and children scramble to pick up their treats. It's all great fun!

pinata

December 20, 2010

Christmas in Mexico: Los Posadas

During the run-up to Christmas, you won't be able to miss Las Posadas. In every village, town and city, in Mexico, these candle-lit processions will be moving through the streets, until the final event on Christmas Eve.

Las Posadas


Posada is Spanish for 'lodging' or 'accommodation'. What you will be witnessing here is the re-enactment of the Christian Nativity. Each house, in the neighbourhood, will schedule a night (between December 16th-24th) to be the posada. Those knocking on the door represent the Biblical Mary and Joseph, seeking somewhere to stay in Bethlehem.

88% of Mexicans are devout Catholics, hence the emphasis on religion at this time of year. Christmas itself is the conflation of the words, Christ Mass. This is celebrated as the anniversary of the birth of Jesus Christ.

The Christian nativity story tells how a census was called in Syria and Judaea, in 6-7CE, which required all of the population to return to their place of birth to be counted. Joseph, a carpenter, had to travel from Galilee to his home city of Bethlehem. With him was his young wife, Mary, who was heavily pregnant. Once there, they discovered that fellow returning ex-pats had filled every hotel, inn, guesthouse and other lodgings for miles around.

No room at the inn


Eventually, Joseph begged an inn-keeper for mercy. He pointed to his exhausted wife, who must have been showing the early signs of labour by then. The inn-keeper took pity on the couple, but explained that he really did have no rooms left. He allowed them to rest in his stable instead, along with all of the livestock. The stables were also full, as those travelling to the inn had arrived on horses, donkeys, mules and any other creature that could have conveyed them there.

Joseph found a corner, which he stuffed full of straw, so that Mary could lie down. Shortly afterwards, she gave birth. The baby was Jesus Christ.

Birth of Christ
Digital art: Matthew Killian


There wasn't exactly a creche attached to the inn, particularly for people bedding down with the livestock. The legend tells how the newborn infant was placed in a manger, as the only available cot. He survived this humble birth to become the central figure of Christianity; the son of God in Catholicism.

It is this story that is the focus of Las Posadas. The community gathers to represent travellers looking for lodgings, at each of the houses in the neighbourhood. They move between them, carrying candles. Four teenagers, amongst the party, will be holding Los Peregrinos (The Travellers). These are large statuettes depicting Mary, on her donkey, and Joseph, leading the donkey. As they knock at each door, none will let them in. They will be told that there's no room inside. Until they reach the house scheduled to hold the event for that night.

As the group move, from house to house, they will be singing a traditional song, entitled 'Villancico Para Pedir Posada'.



The song's lyrics basically tell the story that they are acting out.

When the travellers are finally allowed into a home, they will congregate around the nativity scene prepared there. This is the ceremonial moment, when a figure of the baby Jesus is inserted into the hitherto empty manger. The company will then pray the Rosary before the scene.

Finally, the celebration party begins. This is a joyous occasion, with games for children and a traditional, alcoholic Ponche con Piquete (Punch with sting) for the adults.

When in Mexico this week, look out for Los Posadas. They will be everywhere and they are very beautiful to watch. They are even more wonderful to participate in!

December 18, 2010

Fashionable Canadians Come to Cancún

Until recently, Americans were the top nation taking their vacations in Mexico. Now so many Canadians have flocked to our beachside resorts, that they've ousted the USA. Moreover, they tend to stay longer and explore further than their neighbours.

Canadian and Mexican flags


Figures just released show a steady rise, throughout the decade, in Canadians heading into Mexico. These count those spending at least one night here:

2000.....691,900

2001.....688,600

2002.....607,400

2003.....715,800

2004.....705,200

2005.....794,400

2006.....841,300

2007..1,019,000

2008..1,124,500

2009..1,208,600

The 2010 numbers aren't there, as we're still in it, but the estimates all point to another increase. It is projected that 1.5 million Canucks would have slept overnight, in Mexico, this year.

luxury apartment in Mexico


All of this is despite smear campaigns and sensational news headlines, telling Canadians that the country is very dangerous. Even travel agents have a policy of warning holidaymakers not to stray from the resorts and never, ever befriend the locals(?). It is a view that irritates Alberto Lozano, of the Mexican Embassy in Ottawa. He's pointed out that only 20 Canadians have died in Mexico, during the past four years. Alcohol was involved in the majority of deaths, including the seven who plunged from hotel balconies, while messing around up there. Most were accidental deaths and the rest were natural causes. None of them were killed in gangland violence, nor even saw it.

Chichen Itza


For the Canuck vacationers, the biggest problem that they will encounter, in Mexico, is that they eventually have to leave again. Of course, some don't. The Canadian Expat Association in Cancún has 65 members. It's also a good job that Kelly ignored all of the dire warnings not to speak to locals. Otherwise she would never have met and married one, moved to Cancún and started a family. For the rest of us, that means that we would never have had the amazing 'A Canuck in Cancún' blog!

Incidentally, here is what she had to say about the 'danger' issue:

So, is Cancun safe for tourists? Yes. Crime happens here, sure, pick pockets, thefts from hotel rooms, etc, etc, but violent crime against tourists, no. The type of crime that happens here occurs in every city around the world, tourist attraction or not. Use your common sense and street smarts and you'll be fine. I would venture to say that Cancun is safer than most big cities around the world, I don't feel any different here than I did in Toronto or New York or Los Angeles. In fact, I probably feel safer.
'Tourists Safe in Cancun' by A Canuck in Cancun

But what does she know? She's only lived here for nearly 8 years.

Canuck in Cancun


Meanwhile, the cultural exchange isn't just one way. In Mexico, there are an increasing number of events, where Canadian food, film, music and other exports are introduced to locals and tourists alike. 'La Sombra del Sabino', held in Tepoztlán, is just one such example.

For many Canadian travellers, the taste of home isn't why they rush to Mexico. This is especially true in the winter months. After all, it's currently -5°C (22°F) in snowy Toronto. Meanwhile, on the beaches of Cancun, people are sipping their margaritas, applying sunscreen in temperatures of 29°C (84°F). It's hardly rocket science to work out why the Canuck tourists come.

December 16, 2010

Places of Worship in Cancún

The party goes on; but, just occasionally, people want a bit of actual spirituality, in amongst the divine surroundings. For those living and working in Cancún, Catholicism is the major religion. However, this is a tourist hotspot, where there are often as many religions as there are visitors to our city. Cancún can cater for them too.

multifaith


Many of the services, in a variety of denominations, are offered in either Spanish or English. If you have a preference, then please do check with the venue for the correct times. Insofar as we can verify, the information is correct at the time of writing. If anyone wishes to add/amend their place of worship, just leave a comment and it will be updated.


Buddhist Places of Worship


Centro Budismo Camino del Diamante
(Diamond Way Buddhist Center)

Calle Iguana 389,
Col Montecarlo/SM 51,
Cancun Centro
E-mail: info@budismocancun.com
Website: Budismocancun
Services: Mondays, 8.30pm - Open meditation; Wednesdays, 8.30pm - Introductory talk and open meditation; Fridays, 8.30pm - Meditation and food. Spanish primary language in all, but English is spoken.


Christian Places of Worship


Baptist

Hyatt Regency Hotel
Blvd Kukulcán
Km 10.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 880-7093
Services: Sundays, 10am.

Primera Iglesia Bautista Fundamental de Cancun
(First Fundamental Baptist Church of Cancun)

Playa Hermosa 25
Super Manzana 29
Manzana 8
Cancún
Services: Wednesdays, 7pm. Sundays, 11am and 6pm. All services are in Spanish.

Christian (non-denominational)

Cancun Fellowship Church
Cines VIP
Plaza Las Americas
Av. Tulum 260
Downtown Cancún
Website: Cancunfellowship
Tel: (998)882-1031
Services: Sundays, 8.45am (English language), 10.15am and 11.30am (both Spanish language).

Iglesia Vida de Cancún
Cancun Life Church

SM44, M6, L10, Local D.
Esq. Av. La Luna y C. Ocaso
Downtown Cancún
Website: Vidalifecancun
E-mail: info@vidalifecancun.com
Tel: (998)880-8070
Services: Sundays, 11am. Spanish/English bilingual service.

Episcopal

St Michael's Episcopal Church
Marriott Casa Magna Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 14.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 881-2000
Services: Sundays, 10am. Service is in English.

Jehovah's Witnesses

Salón del Reino de las Testigos de Jehová
(Kingdom Hall of Jehovah's Witnesses)

Plaza Cancún 2000
Avenida Tulúm, 42
Crucero, Av. Tulum & López-Portillo
Downtown Cancún
Tel: (998) 843-2013
Services: Daily, 7.30pm. Sundays, 10am and noon. All services are in Spanish. However, English language congregations are held on Mondays, 7.30pm, and Sundays, 3pm.

Morman (Church of Jesus Christ and Later Day Saints)

Jesu Cris de los Santos de las Ultimos Dias
(Jesus Christ and Later Day Saints)
Calle 10 y Calle 6
SM 63
Downtown Cancún
Services: Sundays, 8am, 10am and noon. All services are in Spanish.

Presbyterian

Puerta Del Cielo
15 Crisantemos Street
Downtown Cancún
Tel: (998) 884-2362.
Services: Sundays, 9.15am, 10.45am and 6.30pm. Sunday school, 9:15am.

Roman Catholic

Camino Real
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 9
Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-0100.
Services: Sunday Mass, 11.00am.

Continental Plaza Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 11.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-1022
Services: Sunday Mass, 12.00 (noon)

Cristo Resucitado (Resurrection of the Lord)
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 3-4
(By Plaza Nautilus)
Cancún
Tel: (998) 83-5035
Services: Daily Mass, 8pm. Sunday Mass, 10.30am, 12 noon, 6.30pm and 8pm. These services are all in Spanish. However, there is an English language mass every Sunday, 9am.

El Pueblito Hotel
Paseo Kukulkan
KM 17.5
77500 Cancún
Services: 12.00pm

Fiesta Americana Condesa
Kukulkan 16
Zona Hotelera
77500 Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-2900
Services: Sundays, 12.00 noon. Services in English and in Spanish.

Inglesia Cristo Rey (Christ the King Church)
15 Margaritas Street
Parque de las Palapas
Downtown Cancún
Tel: (998) 884-0513
Services: Daily Mass, 7am and 7pm. Sundays, 8am, 10:30am, 5pm, 6:30pm and 8pm. Services in Spanish.

Presidente Intercontinental Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 7.5
Tel: (998) 882-0300
Services: Saturdays & Sundays Mass, 6.30pm. Services in English and in Spanish.

Sheraton Hotel
Blvd. Kukulcán
Km 12.5
Cancún
Tel: (998) 883-1988
Services: Sunday Mass, 10.30am


Hindu Places of Worship


Swaminarayan Temple
Cancún

More details will be added when I can find it!

Islamic Places of Worship


None known. This will be updated if we receive information about mosques in Cancún.


Jewish Places of Worship


A wide range of English language information can be found on Jewishcancun. This includes the location of kosher food in the city, as well as religious ceremonies.

Chabad Lubavitch Jewish Center of Cancun (all Jewish denominations)
B2B Hotel and Plaza
Avenida Sayil SM-4c7
Cancun 77500
Website: Jewishcancun
Tel: (998) 219-5601
E-mail: info@jewishcancun.com
Services: Three times daily, but changeable times. Contact them for more details.

Neve Shalom (Conservative Ashkenaz)
Calle Liebre 8
Cancun, SM 20
Mexico
Tel: (998) 892-0674
Website: Neveshalomcancun.
Services: Fridays, 8.30pm; Saturdays, 8.30am. Spanish is the primary language in both services.


Pagan Places of Worship


No circles or moots are registered in Cancún.

However, there is the Isla Mujeres Women's Retreat, which offers events. Isla Mujeres itself translates as 'the isle of women'. The whole island was once dedicated to the Mother Goddess Ix Chel.

Also, look out for trips to Maya, Aztec and other pre-conquest temples, though many of these are in ruins.


Sikh Places of Worship


None known. This will be updated if we receive information about gurdwaras in Cancún.

December 14, 2010

Our Lady of Guadalupe: Festivities

At the weekend, celebrations were held all over Mexico, in honour of the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Here is a selection of the highlights from those events.

Pilgrim in Mexico City

The biggest gathering, by far, was in Mexico City. Six million Catholic pilgrims descended upon the city, which houses Her basicila. It is also here that the initial encounters with the Lady occurred, upon Tepeyac Hill. This was once on the outskirts of the city, but now is right in its historic heart. Pilgrims arrive annally at the spot, on December 12th, creating the largest Catholic event in the Americas.


View Larger Map

The procession and mass, in Mexico City, is so large that many arrive the night before. They camp out, in the vicinity of the basicila, in order to have a good view the next day.

Pilgrims in Mexico City


On December 12th, the number of Catholic pilgrims swells into the millions, as a parade is held through the city streets.

Pilgrims in Mexico City


The basicila itself has a capacity for 80,000 people to hear mass. It is usually full to bursting, but the Feast Day of Our Lady of Guadalupe requires many to wait patiently outside.

Pilgrims in Mexico City


Meanwhile, there was plenty more to be seen and experienced elsewhere:

Pilgrims in Puebla

Pilgrims carry the Lady's image on their truck, near to Puebla, Mexico.

Pilgrim in Connecticut


These pilgrims waited in the pouring rain, in Connecticut, USA, to receive a torch lit at the basicila, in Mexico City. The torch had been carefully carried back, across land, to light up the churchs in New Haven.

The Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe will be celebrated all week in Mexico.
 
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